Fact: No matter what anyone tells you - wood will not "drink up" the oils in a stain and restore life to the siding. The wood is dead. Coat it or a good appearance and low maintainance with a longer lasting finish.
Solid color stains, also called heavy bodied stains, are opaque finishes which come in a wide range of colors and are defined as stains. Solid color stains are made with a much higher concentration of pigment than the semi-transparent penetrating stains. As a result they tend to obscure the natural wood color and grain. Oil-based solid color stains tend to form a film much like paint and as a result can also peel loose from the substrate, though less than oil based paints. Latex- based solid color stains are also available and form a breathable film as well as oil-based solid color stains. These stains are similar to thinned paints, however tend to peel less as they are not grabbing as hard. Solid Color Stains may be applied to a smooth or lightly textured surfaces by brush, pad, spray or roller application, but brush application is best. These stains act much like paint. One coat of solid color stain is adequate, but two coats provide better protection and longer service. Unlike paint, lap marks may form with a solid color stain. Latex-based stains are faster drying and therefore more likely to show lap marks than the oil-based stains. Lap marks are prevented by staining only a small number of boards or a panel at one time, maintaining a wet edge. This method prevents the front edge of the stained area from drying out before a logical stopping place is reached. Working in the shade is desirable because the drying rate is slower. One gallon will usually cover about 250 to 400 square feet of smooth surface and from 150-200 square feet of rough surface. For long life with oil base stain on rough sawn or weathered lumber, use two coats. One coat is normally not sufficient. Avoid intermixing different brands or batches of stain. Even if they appear alike when new, they will differ with age. Always stir stains thoroughly during application. Sponges or cloths that are wet with oil base stain are particularly susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent fires, bury them, immerse them in water, or seal them in an airtight container immediately after use. Latex stain can be applied over freshly primed surfaces and surfaces where an oil-base stain has already been used and weathered. Where old surfaces are to be re-coated with latex a simple test should be conducted first. After cleaning the surface, paint a small, inconspicuous area with latex stain, and allow it to dry at least overnight. Then, to test for adhesion, firmly press one end of a "band aid" type adhesive bandage onto the painted surface. Jerk it off with a snapping action. If the tape is free of paint, it tells you that the latex paint is well bonded and that the old surface does not need priming or additional cleaning. If the new latex paint adheres to the tape, the old surface is too chalky and needs more cleaning or the use of an oil-base primer. Textured plywood surfaces are common for exterior siding. Sanded and roughsawn plywood will develop surface checks, especially when exposed to moisture and sunlight. These checks, coupled with the flat grain pattern (wide bands of dark, dense late wood) characteristic of nearly all plywood, can lead to early paint failure. These paint failures can be minimized by the use of top quality acrylic latex stains. Paint instead of stain? In some cases, painting of plywood is required or desirable. Top quality acrylic latex paints are the best choice for exterior surfaces. For overlaid or MDO plywood, remove all loose paint with a stiff bristle brush and then scrub with a soft brush or sponge and water. Rub your hand against the cleaned surface to determine if any residues remain. When necessary, scrubbing with a detergent or paint cleaner will usually remove additional residues. Then rinse well and allow to dry before repainting. If non-overlaid plywood is to be painted, follow these tips. First, brush a liberal quantity of water- repellent preservative or water repellent onto all the edges of the plywood sheets. The surface should also be treated in the same manner. The water repellent will help reduce wood's tendency to absorb moisture through the end grain and surface lathe checks. Allow the water-repellent preservative or water repellent to dry for at least two warm days. Then prime the plywood surface with a high quality paint recommended for use on woods which contain extractives. The primer should be applied thick enough to obscure the wood grain pattern. Two coats of a high quality acrylic latex house paint should be applied over the primer. Allow at least two days but no longer than two weeks between the primer and top coat. The primer and top coat should be compatible and preferably from the same manufacturer. Always remove the mildew before refinishing. Refinishing painted plywood requires proper surface preparation if the new paint coat is to give the expected performance. First, scrape away all loose paint. Use sandpaper on any remaining paint to "feather the edges" smooth with the bare wood. Then scrub the remaining paint with a brush or sponge and water. Household bleach (based on sodium hypochlorite) used at the rate of 1 cup of bleach to 3 cups of water will remove mildew. Rinse the surface with clean water. Wipe the surface with your hand. If the surface is still dirty or chalky, scrub it again using a detergent or paint cleaner. Rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water, and allow it to dry before repainting. Areas of exposed wood should be treated with a water- repellent preservative or water repellent and allowed to dry for at least two days and then primed. One or preferably two top coats should follow. Varnish, synthetic resins and other clear film forming finishes provide an attractive finish for wood since they allow the natural wood color and grain to show through. Unfortunately, the durability of these finishes on wood under the action of sunlight and moisture is limited. Regardless of the number of coats applied, the film will begin to crack and peel, and the finish will have to be completely removed by sanding or with a varnish remover before a new coat is added. Alternate finishes such as semi transparent stains and water repellent preservatives will give a longer service life and are easier to refinish. Exterior marine or spar varnishes may be used with some success on exterior doors and other areas if adequate protection from the weather is provided. Never wait longer than a year before re-coating an exterior varnish. The power of the sun will damage the bond of the finish where it meets the wood, causing it to crack. Adding UV filters may help, but tend to darken the finish, often to unacceptable levels. Water-repellent preservatives may be used as a natural finish for wood surfaces. They contain a wood preservative, a small amount of wax as a water repellent, a resin or drying oil, and a solvent such as turpentine or mineral spirits. Water-repellent preservatives do not contain any coloring pigments. Therefore, the resulting finish will vary in color depending upon the kind of wood. The preservative may prevent wood from graying by inhibiting mildew. Water repellent preservatives may also be used as a treatment for bare wood before priming and painting or in areas where old paint has peeled, exposing bare wood. This treatment keeps rain or dew from penetrating into the wood, especially at joints and end grain, and thus decreases the shrinking and swelling of wood. As a result, less stress is placed on the paint film, and its service life is extended. This stability is achieved by the small amount of wax present in water-repellent preservatives. The fungicide inhibits surface decay. Be sure to purchase the correct type of water repellent preservative. Any type of water repellent preservative can be used as a natural exterior finish by itself, but only some are paintable. Manufacturers have also developed water repellent preservatives specifically for exterior finishes. Water repellents are also available. These are simply water repellent preservatives with the preservative left out. Water repellents are not good natural finishes but can be used as a stabilizing treatment before priming and painting. Before purchasing and using a water-repellent preservative or water repellent, read the label carefully and follow the manufacturer's directions. The most effective method of applying a water repellent preservative is to dip the entire board into the solution. However, brush treatment is also effective. When wood is treated in place, liberal amounts of the solution should be applied to all lap and butt joints, edges and ends of boards and panels. It is important to apply liberal amounts of the solution to the end grain of wood. Areas especially vulnerable to moisture, such as the bottoms of doors and window frames, should not be overlooked. One gallon will cover about 250 square feet of smooth surface or 150 square feet of rough surface. The life expectancy is only 1-2 years, depending upon the wood and exposure. Treatments on rough surfaces are generally longer-lived than those on smooth surfaces. Repeated brush treatment to the point of refusal will enhance durability and performance. Water repellent preservatives can be renewed by a simple cleaning of the old surface with a bristle brush and an application of a new coat of finish. To determine if a water-repellent preservative has lost its effectiveness, splash a small quantity of water against the wood surface. If the water beads up and runs off the surface, the treatment is still effective. If the water soaks in, the wood needs to be refinished. Refinishing is also required when the wood surface shows signs of graying. Note. Steel wool and wire brushes should not be used to clean surfaces to be finished with water repellent preservatives since small iron deposits may be left behind. Pentachlorophenol may cause iron remaining on the surface to corrode. The corrosion products may then react with certain wood extractives to form a dark blue, unsightly discoloration which becomes sealed beneath the new finishing system. Pentachlorophenol was commonly used in some semitransparent penetrating stains and water repellent preservatives before it became a restricted use pesticide. Water repellent preservatives can also be used as a natural finish for plywood. Water-repellent preservatives are mixtures of a solvent such as mineral spirits or other paint thinners, wax, a resin or drying oil and a wood preservative. These finishes, like semitransparent stains, penetrate the wood and do not form a surface film, so peeling will not be a problem. Since they do not contain any coloring pigments, they will allow he natural wood color and grain to show through. Expected service life is only 1 to 2 years, and frequent reapplication is necessary to protect the wood surface. Water repellents are sometimes used in the same manner as water repellent preservatives. However, they do not contain a wood preservative and will not protect against surface mold and mildew. Wood preservatives are not considered to be finishes. However, wood properly treated with a preservative can withstand years of exposure to severe decay and insect attack without being affected. The common wood preservatives are creosote, penta-chlorophenol in oil, and copper and sodium napthanates. The newer water-borne salt treatments, all of which are restricted use pesticides. Creosote and penta-chlorophenol in oil result in a dark and oily surface. Odor with creosote is a problem. Wood treated with creosote or penta-chlorophenol in oil is not recommended for use around the home where people will come in contact with it. However, wood treated with water borne salts is suggested for use as patio decks, outside steps, privacy fences and other home uses. This material is generally light to bright green or brown in color. It can be used outdoors without finishing and will go practically unchanged or weather to a light gray. Semi Transparent Oil Stains are moderately pigmented and, thus, do not totally hide the wood grain. These stains penetrate the wood surface, are porous, and do not form a surface film like paint. As a result, they will not blister or peel even if moisture gets into the wood. Latex (water borne) stains are also available, but they do not penetrate the wood surface as do the oil based stains. Stains are most effective on rough lumber or plywood surfaces. They are available in a variety of colors and are especially popular in the brown tones since they give a "natural or rustic wood appearance." They are not available in white. They are also an excellent finish for weathered wood. They are not effective when applied over a solid color stain or over old paint. Semi-transparent Penetrating Stains may be brushed, padded or rolled on. Brushing will give better penetration and performance. These stains are generally thin and runny, so application can be messy. Lap marks will form if stains are improperly applied. Lap marks can be prevented by staining only a small number of boards or a panel at one time. This method prevents the front edge of the stained area from drying out before a logical stopping place is reached. Working in the shade is desirable because the drying rate is slower. One gallon will usually cover about 300 to 400 square feet of smooth surface and from 150 to 200 square feet of rough surface. For long life with penetrating oil-base stain on rough sawn or weathered lumber, use two coats and apply the second coat before the first is dry. Apply the first coat to a panel or area as you would to prevent lap marks. Then work on another area so that the first coat can soak into the wood for 20 to 60 minutes. Apply the second coat before the first coat has dried. (If the first coat dries completely, it will seal the wood surface so that the second coat cannot penetrate into the wood.) About an hour after applying the second coat, use a cloth or sponge to wipe off the excess stain that has not penetrated into the wood. Stain which did not penetrate will form an unsightly surface film and glossy spots. Avoid intermixing different brands or batches of stain. Stir stain thoroughly during application. Sponges or cloths that are wet with oil-base stain are particularly susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent fires, bury them, immerse them in water, or seal them in an airtight container immediately after use. A two-coat wet system on rough wood may last as long as 10 years in certain exposures. If only one coat of penetrating stain is used on new wood, its expected life is 2 to 4 years, but succeeding coats will last longer. Semi-transparent Penetrating Stains are relatively easy to refinish. Excessive scraping and sanding are not required. Simply use a stiff bristle brush to remove all surface dirt, dust, and loose wood fibers, and then apply a new coat of stain. The second coat of penetrating stain often lasts longer since it penetrates into small surface checks which open up as wood weathers. Note: Steel wool and wire brushes should not be used to clean surfaces to be finished with semitransparent stains since small iron deposits may be left behind. Pentachlorophenol may cause iron remaining on the surface to corrode. The corrosion products may then react with certain wood extractives to form a dark-blue, unsightly discoloration which becomes sealed beneath the new finishing system. Pentachlorophenol was commonly used in some semitransparent penetrating stains and water-repellent preservatives before it became a restricted-use pesticide. Unlike paints, semi-transparent penetrating oil-base stains cannot check and peel from plywood surfaces. These stains penetrate the wood and do not form a continuous film or coating like paint. Semitransparent penetrating stains allow most of the wood grain to show through, and the color can be controlled by pigments added to the stain. Penetrating stains also perform well on weathered surfaces. New, smooth surfaces may also be stained. Oil-base penetrating stains have a longer life expectancy when properly applied to rough sawn or weathered surfaces. Semitransparent stains may be brushed or rolled on. Brushing should give better penetration and performance especially on textured surfaces. These stains are generally thin and runny, so application can be a little messy. Lap marks will form if stains are improperly applied. Lap marks can be prevented by staining only a small number of boards or a panel at one time. Working in the shade is desirable because the drying rate is slower. The penetrating stain should be stirred frequently during application. One gallon will usually cover about 300 to 400 square feet of smooth surface and from 150 to 250 square feet of rough surface. For long life with penetrating base stain on rough sawn or weathered lumber, use two coats and apply the second coat before the first is dry. Apply the first coat to a panel or area as you would to prevent lap marks. Then work on another area so the first coat can soak into the wood for 20 to 60 minutes. Apply the second coat before the first coat has dried. (If the first dries completely, it may seal the wood surface so that the second coat cannot penetrate into the wood). About an hour after applying the second coat, use a cloth or sponge to wipe off the excess stain that has not penetrated into the wood. Stain which did not penetrate may form an unsightly surface film and glossy spots. Note: Sponges or cloths that are wet with oil-base stain are particularly susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent fires, bury them, immerse them in water, or seal them in an airtight container immediately after use. A two coat wet system on rough wood may last as long as 10 years. If only one coat of penetrating stain is used on new wood, its expected life is 2-4 years, but succeeding coats will last longer. ********************************************************************** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. ********************************************************************** [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
