I've found that awareness and a quick response are two of the best allies 
against garden foes. By knowing my plants, as well as their pests and diseases,
I can be proactive in combatting garden ailments.

When problems do arise, I turn to the most benign and natural forms of control, 
like hand-picking invaders, setting up barriers, or trimming problem areas
off plants. If these interventions fail, I apply my easy homemade potions to 
treat my gardens, keeping in mind the welfare of the soil and the dwellers
who share the earth with me.

Anyone walking into my potting area is liable to find four or five mixtures of 
fertilizer brews and oddball pest blends fermenting in tubs, along with a
strange collection of tools and utensils. It is not the aftermath of some 
cataclysmic disaster; it is my laboratory, my living library, and the makings
for a healthy garden.

Animal pests
Make your own deer repellent with eggs, beef bouillon, water, and liquid soap.

Deterrents for deer
Most gardeners agree that a strong, tall fence (preferably electric), tilted 
outward at a 45-degree angle, or two fences about 5 feet apart are the 
longest-lasting
solutions to a deer problem. But if a fence isn't in your budget or doesn't fit 
in with your garden design, here are some alternatives:
* Dangle strips of Mylar or compact discs from tree branches to alarm deer.
* Poke a hole with a needle and fishing line through tiny, scented bars of soap 
(wrappers on), and hang several on each shrub or tree in your garden. A
Smithsonian Institution research team found Lifebuoy soap to be the best.
* Make your own deer repellent. Rotten eggs and beef bouillon are ingredients 
in many commercial deer repellents. Break 1 dozen eggs into a bucket, add
4 cubes of beef bouillon, and fill the bucket with water. Cover it with a lid, 
and let the mixture sit until it stinks. Add 2 tablespoons of liquid soap
per gallon of liquid, and pour the mixture into a spray bottle. Then hold your 
nose and spray the plants. Do not spray it directly on plants that you will
consume; instead, spray it around them to create an invisible barrier. For 
edibles, use "garlic soup" (see "Diseases"), which I also apply to thwart plant
diseases.
.Sweet gum pods protect plants from rabbits.

Simple ways to keep rabbits at bay
The heartbreak caused by a mowed-down sunflower, hosta, tulip, or whatever 
happened to be on the resident rabbit's menu that day is something no gardener
should have to bear. Here are a few tricks I use to divert those rascally 
rabbits:
* Shake baby powder or flour on young seedlings and garlic powder on mature 
plants to make them unpalatable.
* Surround prized bushes or herbaceous plants with a thick planting of garlic 
and wormwood to offend rabbits' discriminating sense of smell.
* Encircle plants with small branches of spiny holly leaves or the large, 
dried, prickly seed vessels of the sweet gum tree (Liquidambar styraciflua). The
evergreen holly branches can be collected and used anytime. Gather the sweet 
gum pods in the fall, and store them in a dry area. In early spring, place
them firmly in the soil surrounding the plants.

Moles be gone
To discourage moles, sink a line of glass bottles into the soil with about 1 
inch of neck exposed. The whistling sound of wind blowing across the bottle
tops disrupts moles' sensitive hearing and hinders their ability to find prey. 
Poking several noisy toy windmills into the soil will also disturb moles,
as the vibrations will drive them away.

Moles dislike garlic, so try dropping some crushed cloves into the run. You can 
also repel them with a castor-oil concoction. Mix 8 tablespoons of castor
oil and 1 tablespoon of liquid soap in 1 gallon of water. Dig down into one of 
the critter's runs, and pour the mixture inside.

Insect pests
Grapefruit rinds lure slugs.

Barriers and baits for slugs and snails
Slugs and snails are responsible for wiping out many a gardener'sdreams. I 
create barriers around prized plants to protect them from annihilation. Copper
strips produce a shock to snails and slugs trying to cross them. Wrap 
inexpensive, thin copper, found in craft stores, around pots, plants, and trees 
to
create a protective barrier. Pine needles, coffee grounds, crushed eggshells, 
or diatomaceous earth (fossilized, silica-shell remains of prehistoric diatoms
that desiccate insect bodies) provide a scratchy barrier and should be 
reapplied after a rain. Always purchase natural diatomaceous earth because 
swimming-pool
grade contains crystalline silica, a respiratory hazard.

I also use several bait techniques to catch slugs and snails; then I scrape the 
creatures into soapy water in the morning. Here are some ways to lure them:
* Set out fresh grapefruit and melon rinds each evening in a moist, shady area 
plagued by slugs and snails.
* Lay empty flowerpots or milk cartons on their sides in a shady area.
* Water a small portion of your yard in the evening, and put down a small, 
wooden board that is elevated slightly on a rock. The slugs and snails will 
congregate
on the board's underside.
041104050e-02.jpgBlended larkspur or delphinium leaves make an effective spray 
against Japanese beetles.

Japanese beetle busters
Like slugs and snails, Japanese beetles have plagued gardeners for years. One 
way to stop them in their tracks is to suck them up with a small, handheld
vacuum. Another way is to throw a handful of larkspur or delphinium leaves into 
a blender, add the blend to 1 gallon of water, and spray the mixture onto
plants being attacked by Japanese beetles. The deadly alkaloids (deliosine and 
delsoline) in the leaves will zap the beetles.Knock the beetles into a bucket 
of soapy water.

Some gardeners have had success deterring Japanese beetles by planting a ring 
of garlic and chives around the affected plants, while others bounce those
bugs into a bucket of warm, soapy water with a long-handled spatula or spoon. 
It is a natural defense for a bug to drop to the ground, so the Japanese
beetles will fall straight into their sudsy demise. Try to catch them in the 
early morning when they're still a little sluggish.

Red-pepper powder repels pesky critters
I have been using red-pepper powder for years on everything from cucumber 
beetles and spittlebugs to leafhoppers and cabbage loopers. Now there is 
scientific
backing for this treatment: Entomologist Geoff Zehnder of Auburn University in 
Alabama credits McCormick red-pepper powder for protecting cabbages better
than any standard chemical insecticide.

Mix 2 tablespoons of red-pepper powder and 6 drops of liquid soap in 1 gallon 
of water. Let the mixture sit overnight, and stir thoroughly. Pour the mixture
into a spray bottle, shake well, and spray weekly on the tops and bottoms of 
the leaves. This will protect plants, especially members of the cabbage family
(including broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and brussels sprouts), from destructive 
insects.
Adhesive tape lifts small insects from plant leaves.

Tricks for removing aphids, mites, and other small insects
Scientists at Texas A&M University estimate that up to 90 percent of problems 
with aphids, mites, and spittlebug nymphs can be cured by dislodging them
with a strong blast of water. You can also use adhesive tape to remove aphids 
and other small insects from plant leaves. Simply wrap a long piece of tape
around your fingers (sticky side out), and blot off the bugs.

For aphids in particular, set a yellow dish filled with soapy water near the 
plant. Aphids are drawn to the color yellow. For spider mites that persist
despite a daily spray of plain water, use a buttermilk spray developed by 
scientists at Purdue University. Combine 14 cup of buttermilk and 2 cups of 
wheat
flour in 2-1/2 gallons of water. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle, shake 
the ingredients thoroughly, and spray it on your plants.
Crushed strong-scented herbs make a tea that repels many insects.

An herbal brew to combat troublesome creepy crawlers
Basil and especially potently scented herbs- such as lavender, rosemary, tansy, 
southernwood, rue, mint, wormwood, or sage-help fight harmful leafhoppers,
aphids, cabbage loopers, mites, cucumber beetles, and many other creepy 
crawlers. Simply gather a handful of fresh basil leaves and stems and any other
herb trimmings you have on hand, crush them slightly, and stuff them into a 
mesh produce sack, if you have one. Put the sack (or the loose herbs) into
a bucket or a large glass jar that is at least 12 gallon in size, and fill with 
water. Cover the container, and set it in the sun to brew for a few days.
Remove the sack, or strain the solids from the mixture. Store the liquid in a 
covered container in a cool, dark area until it's needed as an insecticide.
When you're ready to do battle, pour the herbal brew into a spray bottle, add 
18 teaspoon of liquid soap, and shake well before spraying.
More Info

Helpful hints

Diseases
Chamomile tea works against plant fungus and mildew.

Chamomile tea is a cure-all for fungal diseases
It's a little-known fact that chamomile tea has antibacterial and fungicidal 
properties that will aid plants suffering from fungus and mildew. I often make
a simple brew for my sickly plants. Place 16 chamomile tea bags (or 2 cups of 
dried chamomile flowers) in 2 quarts of water, and simmer for 20 minutes.
Turn off the heat, and allow the tea bags to steep for several hours. Strain, 
if using dried flowers. Use the tea to irrigate tender seedlings (from the
bottom) to prevent damping off, or use as a foliar spray to battle diseases on 
plants. Because I never let anything go to waste, I also add leftover tea
and used tea bags to my watering can.

A tonic for black spot and powdery mildew on roses
Roses, while beautiful, are often plagued with black spot or powdery mildew. I 
mix these ingredients into a tonic, which I spray on my roses: 2 teaspoons
of baking soda and 12 teaspoon of liquid soap or Murphy's oil soap in 2 quarts 
of water. The tonic protects the roses for months.
Puréed garlic cloves or leaves help restore plant health. Photo/Illustration: 
Amy Albert

Garlic helps thwart noxious diseases
For plants with a fungal, viral, or bacterial disease, cook up a batch of what 
I call "garlic soup." Purée two cloves of garlic in a blender for a minute.
Slowly add 1 quart of water, and continue blending for about six minutes. 
Strain the mixture, and add 18 teaspoon of liquid soap. Pour the liquid into
a storage container and cover tightly. When you're ready to take action, mix 1 
part garlic soup with 10 parts water into a spray bottle and apply the mixture
to the top and undersides of your sick plant's leaves, taking caution not to 
spray beneficial insects and larvae. Scientists have discovered that garlic
leaves are potent in their own right, so you can also purée two handfuls of 
leaves instead of using cloves.
Use an aspirin foliar spray to combat black spot, powdery mildew, and rust.

Aspirin is the remedy for fungal headaches
Black spot, powdery mildew, and rust are a terrible trio of fungi, which can 
attack and destroy your plants. Scientists have found that two uncoated aspirin
tablets (325 milligrams each) dissolved in 1 quart of water and used as a 
foliar spray can thwart these diseases.
More Info

Gardener' s Triage

Weeds
A vinegar spray thwarts weeds.

Vinegar wreaks havoc on weeds
Attack weeds with a directed stream of vinegar (5 percent acidity) mixed with a 
few drops of liquid soap. You may substitute equal parts water and isopropyl
alcohol (70 percent solution) for the vinegar. This works well for areas in 
stone or brick patios where you don't want grass or weeds. Drench the weed
leaves in the heat of the day. When applying, be careful not to spray any 
treasured plants; cover them with newspaper for protection.

For large areas, spray the vegetation, lay down pieces of cardboard, top them 
with shredded bark (a layer at least 3 inches deep), and let the bed "rest"
for a season. The next spring, the cardboard will be like mulch, and the bed 
will be weed-free and easy to work.
Corn gluten prevents weeds.

Corn gluten stops weeds before they start
Professor Nick Christians and other researchers at Iowa State University found 
an amazing use for corn gluten meal, the tough, sticky, elastic by-product
of milled cornmeal. The protein-rich corn gluten meal contains an herbicide 
that inhibits root formation during germination, and this effect lasts for
months.

Timing is everything when it comes to using corn gluten. If the weed seeds have 
already germinated and sprouted, this technique won't work. To protect a
newly planted (but unseeded) bed from a weedy invasion, work corn gluten meal 
into the top 2 to 3 inches of your soil, and water thoroughly. Lawns and
existing flower beds can be top-dressed with corn gluten meal. Do not fertilize 
the treated area for a month after application because corn gluten meal
is high in nitrogen.

**********************************************************************
This message and its attachments may contain legally
privileged or confidential information. If you are not the
intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the
information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail
in error, please notify the sender immediately by return
e-mail and delete the e-mail.

Any content of this message and its attachments which
does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy
must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by
Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or
attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect.
**********************************************************************



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Reply via email to