The age-old art of applying faux finishes has been "discovered" by today's
homeowners. Faux finishes offer great ways of brightening an otherwise drab
room,
without a lot of expense. You can also completely change the appearance of a
piece of furniture or accessory. Actually, the process of creating an
imitation
of a material with nothing more than paint has been around for years. Many
17th and 18th century furniture pieces featured a wooden surface painted to
resemble leather, exotic woods and, of course, marble.
Furniture and accessories can still be given the "faux" treatment, but the
most popular use these days is to brighten drab, solid-colored walls. If you
think, "I just don't have the talent to do that," when you see an
artistically painted room, think again. New products and easy-to-do methods
allow even
a first-timer to create a one-of-a-kind room decor.
"Sears developed a faux program with basic techniques that encourage
homeowners to give it a try without the fear of making mistakes," says Dan
Jenkins,
Sears' buyer of specialty coatings and accessories. "Sears Easy Living
allows homeowners to experiment with different effects with one, easy-to-use
program."
The Easy Living program offers more than 125 color combinations using four
techniques: sponging, rag rolling, dragging and color washing. Each color
card
illustrates the technique applied, materials list and steps needed to start
the project. Easy Living offers both paints and tools. The line's faux
finishes
in "Sheer Metallic" include gold, silver and Pearlescent for shimmering
effects. The selection of faux-finish tools and applicators includes a
natural
sea sponge, rag-roller, color-washing and dragging brush and decorator tape.
930200394838_fafi3.jpg
Wagner offers its WallMagic Starter Set for faux finishing that includes a
dual roller arm, dual paint tray and step-by-step instructional CD Rom.
Wagner
roller covers are available in a variety of textures, such as marble, wool.
braid, sponge and a "stars" pattern.
Another manufacturer, Valspar, also offers a number of materials for
creating a variety of faux finishes. These include paints and glazes for
stippling,
dragging, sponging, rag rolling, lime washing, metal patina, brushed suede
and even crackle finishes for furniture and accessories. McCloskey Special
Effects
from Valspar have a number of spray finishes including crackle, suede and
sand.
Tactics for Walls
Wall surfaces should begin with a non-porous base coat of acrylic eggshell
or satin finish paint. This semi-slippery surface is necessary to provide
the
longest working time with the glaze. Surfaces painted with flat paints can
reduce working time and create a splotchy look. Most effects are done using
a translucent glaze of a different color, although some effects use solid
colors. Before tackling a wall or room, experiment on a piece of scrap
wallboard,
the hidden corner of a closet or small section of a room. Most effects are
not hard to do, but consistency requires practice. Make sure you completely
finish a wall before stopping or you may have problems as you attempt to
work wet glaze into dried glaze. Following are general rules for the most
common
methods:
Sponging. Sponging utilizes a sea sponge to apply two to three accent colors
to a base coat for casual to elegant looks. Sponging can create a soft,
mottled
look on anything from walls to trim and even furniture. My wife Joan and I
began our marriage with little money and an old mobile home. She used a
sponge
finish to brighten and redo the old "linoleum." We applied a base coat and
used two different sponge shapes with two paint colors to provide a pattern
that matched the kitchen countertop. Manufactured sponges can be used, but
they don't have the random pattern of natural sea sponges. Or you can do as
we did years ago and cut sponges to make a specific pattern.
Before beginning, tape off ceilings, trim or any areas you don't wish to
sponge. Two methods can be used - sponging off and sponging on. In sponging
off,
the glaze is first applied with a roller and then a sponge used to remove
materials. The more common method is sponging on where the glaze is applied
by
lightly pouncing the sponge to the surface. Continue turning the sponge as
you work to achieve different patterns. Sponges are available in a variety
of
sizes to enable work in large areas, yet get into tight corners. Sponge
rollers make the work quicker and easier and corner rollers are also
available.
Both are available from TexMaster Tools. Experiment to determine the proper
amount of glaze to use with the sponges as both too little and too much
glaze
can create an inconsistent pattern.
Stippling. Stippling is similar to sponging, except a special stippling
brush is used to create the pattern. Lightly pounce the brush is lightly
pounced
to apply the translucent color over the base coat with the tips of the
brush. Stippling can also be used in an on/off method. Regardless, the brush
should
be continually turned to create a random pattern with no visible square
edges.
Dragging. Another popular method for both walls and furniture pieces that
have large flat surfaces is dragging, also known as strie'. This pattern is
created
by pulling a special, dry "dragging brush" downward through the wet glaze.
First apply the glaze with a roller. Then use a brush to remove streaks of
glaze,
revealing the base coat.
Rag Rolling. Rag rolling creates some of the most dramatic patterns. Again,
rolling on or rolling off techniques can be used. In both techniques a
ragging
cloth, roller, or pad is used to create the effect. In rolling on, apply the
glaze to the rag, twist the rag into a cylindrical shape, and then roll it
across the surface to create the pattern. In ragging off, apply the glaze
with a roller, and then dampen the rag with water, roll it into a
cylindrical
shape and roll it across the wet glaze to remove some glaze. A rag roller,
such as from Sears, or a ragging mitt, such as from Plaid Enterprises, make
the chore of ragging more consistent and easier to apply.
Color Washing. Color washing provides the most subtle, soft effect. Color
washing adds depth to a flat wall, and even more effect on a textured
plaster
or stucco wall. Use a color washing brush, such as the Symphony Color
Washing Brush from Bestt Liebco, to apply the glaze. Begin the process by
brushing
the glaze in an X-shape in a 1-by-1-square-foot area. Then continue to brush
the area in smaller X's until the glaze is removed from the brush and the
area has a nice mottled effect. You can further soften the look by using a
dry washing brush or a Symphony Cheesecloth to remove some glaze before the
glaze dries entirely.
Additional Techniques
You can also create the subtle look of leather by using two translucent
glazes, washing them in place and blending the colors. Use a dry brush or
cheesecloth
to further soften and blend all the colors. Another very popular washing
effect is lime washing, as with Valspar's Decorative Effects textured lime
wash
or Briwax liming wax. Applied in the same basic method as color washing,
lime washing adds a chalky, white textured glaze.
One of the newer finishes is Brushed Suede Paint from Valspar. The paint
adds a rich texture with the velvety touch of suede. Apply the first coat of
finish
with a roller, and then a second coat with a roller. Use a 3- to 4-inch
paint brush to create a more random textured look with the second coat.
Valspar
also has spray suede paints.
For a really exciting accent area use Valspar Brushed Metal glazes over a
dry base coat. A wallpaper smoothing brush is an excellent choice for
creating
the look of brushed metal. Available colors include gold, silver, copper or
bronze metallic. These finishes are great for accent pieces such as
candlesticks,
lamps, vases and other accessories. You can also use the colors to create
the illusion of patina or rust, using a natural sea sponge to sponge on a
glaze
over a base coat.
Furniture and Accessories
Unfinished or "refinished" furniture and accessories can be given any number
of faux finishes to create a truly one-of-a-kind piece. All of the basic
techniques
covered for walls can also be used on many furniture or accessory pieces.
Distressed wood is a common furniture finish. Distress the wood with a
chain, hammer or other object. Apply a base coat, and then apply a glaze
using a
dragging brush to create a "wiped" effect. Another very popular and quite
easy finish is crackle. This can be used on almost any surface to provide an
"aged" appearance. The Valspar Porcelain Crackle finish comes in both a base
coat and a glaze. The first step is to apply the base coat and then apply
the crackle glaze using a sponge brush. Once the crackle has dried, apply a
white antiquing glaze or a translucent color glaze for more dramatic
effects.
The materials are also available in aerosol cans for easy use on small
items.
Other age-old popular imitations include porphyry (a resemblance to stone
such as granite and other porphyry stones), marble, tortoise shell and even
painted
wood finishes. The French term "faux bois" actually means false wood. In
many instances these finishes are painted on using a variety of artist's
brushes.
Creating any of these faux surfaces does require a bit more artistic talent,
as well as more specialized tools. Porphyry stones are basically "granite"
in appearance. Apply a base coat, and then "splatter" a variety of glaze
and/or solid colors onto the surface using a brush tapped against a block of
wood.
The Valspar, McCloskey, Plasti-Kote line have spray versions of many stone,
granite and sand finishes available in a number of colors for outdoor and
indoor
use.
Faux marble or "marbre" dates back to the pottery of 2,200 B.C. The most
common tactic is called "floating marble." It's a good idea to have a sample
of
the marble you wish to imitate on hand so you can choose the correct colors
and imitate the pattern. The method can be used with either a dry or wet
ground.
The first step is to apply a base coat or background color of semi-gloss
paint. For a wet ground, apply the other colors while the background color
is
still wet. These can be enamel paints thinned with mineral spirits, or
artist's oil colors thinned with mineral spirits. Drop and spatter the
colors into
the wet base coat and allow them to float or move outwards and mix together.
One method is to use an eye-dropper to create the drops of color into pools
of mineral spirits. Tilting the work surface can also cause the colors to
run in specific directions.
A dry ground method uses a dry base coat. Apply a wash of mineral spirits
and then drop the thinned colors in place. Any number of objects may be used
to
create different patterns. Use soft brushes to dab colors in place. Use
artist's brushes or turkey-wing feathers to create streaks or lines with the
colors.
A sea sponge and glazes can add more subtle coloring, as can a rag roller.
Once the surface has dried, protect it with several coats of clear
polyurethane
varnish.
Faux tortoise shell is created in the same manner, except small flat brushes
are used to create short paint strokes wet-on-wet of the various colors.
A number of years ago we redid an old house with absolutely terrible trim.
We tried stripping, but too many paint layers made it a tough job. We then
hired
a painter who specialized in wood graining. When he finished, the trim
greatly resembled the finest red oak trim. First apply a background color or
base
color. Then brush a dark glaze over the dried background color. Use veining
brushes to drag the glaze color away in a woodgrain pattern. Knots and
specialized
grain patterns can also be painted. In this case, apply the background
color, and then use a glaze with artist's brushes to create the design.
Newer tools
make wood graining easy even for a first-timer.
Regardless of whether you have drab walls and trim, or just want to create a
special room, faux finishes can create a one-of-a-kind decor. Likewise
uninteresting
furniture or accessories, or some you've simply gotten tired of looking at,
can become "new" and exciting with any number of todays easily-applied faux
finishes.
SIDEBAR
>From Faux Finishes to Marvelous Murals
The excitement of achieving a great faux finish can lead to more ambitious
undertakings with paint, such as murals. Many faux-finish techniques lend
themselves
to mural work and vice-versa. A subtle ragging technique in neutral tones of
tan or gray makes a beautiful base for a mural, or it can be used as a final
coat over a completed mural to give an aged, Old World effect. Connie
Kilpatrick of Hallowed Halls Designs has more than 20 years experience in
fine art
and design, specializing in commercial and residential faux finishes and
decorative painting. She offers the following advice to do-it-yourselfers
trying
their hand at mural design.
Traditional murals contain subject matter taken from nature,
such as landscapes or seascapes. They can be very detailed and realistic, or
simply
a suggestion of the real thing. Sources for ideas can come from anywhere -
books, magazines, photographs and favorite paintings.
Making a small sketch to scale (i.e., 1 inch equating to 1 foot)
is very helpful whether covering an entire wall or only a portion of a wall.
Draw a grid over the sketch in 1- or 2-inch intervals, according to the size
of the mural. After preparing the wall with the color or finish of choice,
chalk a corresponding grid on the wall in 1- or 2-foot intervals. Then, copy
the sketch onto the wall, grid for grid.
Using colored chalk makes mistakes easy to dust away. When
drawing, keep the scale of the room and wall in mind as the full size of the
sketch
comes to life. Dust away grid lines after completing the drawing and prepare
to paint.
Choose a limited number of colors to start, testing swatches on
a board that contains a sample of the wall color. Acrylic and latex paints
are
quick-drying and easy to clean up. Blending wet into wet is more challenging
with these water-based paints, but it's possible if one works quickly.
Paint should be applied starting at the top of the wall, using
paler shades of color and working downward. In scenes of nature, begin with
areas
in the distance and move toward the foreground. Remember, objects that are
farther away are lighter and more faded. Closer objects are more vivid and
detailed.
Continue building the mural layer by layer, often stepping back
to review the progress and making any necessary adjustments. Keep in mind
"it's
only paint" and any apprehension will most likely melt into success.
Ready to try a mural? Try these painting pointers:
Try a monochromatic color scheme, using several tints and shades of a single
color.
For removable murals, paint on primed canvas (purchased by the yard) and
install like wallpaper, using trim molding to cover the edges.
Don't forget the ceiling - a great place for decorative designs.
