THANKS this the article that I was looking for. Just could not remember
what it was called...
THANKS ROB from MINNESOTA
----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Boyce
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Winterizing Your Super Coupe and Your Other Toys
Before you put your car away for the season give it a good wash and wax job.
It is VERY IMPORTANT to always store your car clean. Don't forget to wash
off
the undercarriage. After all, that's were most of the rust starts. A good
coat of wax on the car will protect the finish against stains if something
happens
to get on it during the time it is being stored.
If you use a car cover, put it on while the car is clean and dry to protect
against dirt, dust and possible scratches. DO NOT cover your car with
plastic
or one of those blue tarps that you can get at the hardware store. It only
traps moisture, and trapping moisture between the finish and a piece of
plastic
will make the paint bubble and rust will begin to form.
Take your vehicle for a drive and get everything warmed up before you park
it. By getting your car up to operating temperature it helps to burn off
contaminants
in the oil and it also gets rid of moisture in the crankcase and the exhaust
system. NOTE: Don't start your car during the winter unless you plan to
drive
it or allow it to get up to normal operating temperatures. "Short running"
the engine will allow moisture to build up in the crankcase and exhaust
system.
Change your oil and oil filter. Fresh oil will protect the internal parts of
your engine better because there are less hydro-carbons and other
contaminates
in fresh oil. If you would rather change your oil in the spring, be sure to
do it as soon as possible after you get the car out of storage.
Check and fill all major fluids, including brake fluid, clutch fluid
reservoir (5-speed owners) and supercharger oil (On SC's). Also be sure your
antifreeze
is clean and fresh to avoid the cooling system from freezing or possible
corrosion.
Fill the gas tank just before you park the car for the winter. (This will
help prevent moisture from condensing inside the tank). Remember, premium
unleaded
gasoline without alcohol is the only thing you should use in your SC's. If
you are not planning to visit your car during the winter, be sure to add a
good
fuel stabilizer.
Remove the battery and keep it charged. When storing a battery you should
keep at as close to room temperature as possible and it should be kept off
of
the floor so that it doesn't discharge. Store it on a wooden shelf or on a
large block of wood (a piece of 4x4) several inches off of the floor to keep
it from discharging.
Put steel wool or rolled up scotch-brite pads in the tailpipes and also in
the air-intake openings to keep mice from using your car as a food pantry.
But remember to remove them before trying to Start.
On cars with 4 and 5-speed transmissions you can place a board on the clutch
pedal rod to partially depress it, that helps to avoid the risk of the
clutch
and flywheel rusting together. (If you are only storing the car for a few
months this really shouldn't be necessary).
Never set the parking brake. The brake shoes or pads could stick to the
drums or rotors or the cables could rust or freeze up during storage.
If you store your car off of the ground, (on jack stands), the stands should
be under the suspension. If not, damage to the shocks and other suspension
parts can occur.
If you store your car on the ground be sure to over-inflate the tires
slightly. Five to 15 pounds should be enough. Even tires that are new or in
good condition
can lose around one or two pounds of pressure per month. When you get your
car back out in the spring, re-check the pressures to insure against tire
damage.
Put a moisture-absorber, like baking soda, inside the car to keep mildew
from starting inside the cars interior. (From mildew come mold, from mold
comes
a new interior). If you store your car inside a heated area leave the
windows opened about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to allow the air to circulate.
Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar) products before
storing your car. They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can
encourage
mildew and mold. (I did the dash on my Chevelle one time before I stored it
and it took all of the next summer to get that musty smell out of the car).
Mouse traps or poisons placed around the car is also a good idea, BUT be
sure that your dogs and cats can't get to it. Place them around the car
every several
feet. Leave your sun visors down so it is more difficult for mice to get
into the headliner if they do get into the car. NOTE* Mothballs will repel
some
pests, but the smell stays in the car for a long time. Don't put them IN
your car. Bars of soap placed in an open plastic butter tub or coffee can in
the
trunk and front and back floorboards work good too. They smell a lot better
too.
Always store your car on a vapor barrier like a large piece of plastic. Try
not to store your car where vehicles will be coming in and out during the
winter
months. They bring moisture in with them.
If you are like me, (somewhat forgetful), make notes and leave them on the
front seat or tape them to the windshield to remind you what needs to be
done
in Spring to get the car ready for the summer season.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
