Dale.  on mine the end of the half round screw is to deeply recessed to be 
felt.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting the ruler back into your combination 
square.


> Max,
>
> You do not have to remove the threaded pin to align it to the ruler. Just 
> loosen the nut off a little. You will be able to feel that the end of the 
> pin is milled flat on one side, the side which engages the slot running 
> the length of the ruler. You can feel that because it fills one side of 
> the rounded hole along the slot at the back of the casting when properly 
> aligned. All you need to do is rotate the pin until it fills the half of 
> the hole on the same side as the slot in the ruler will engage and the 
> ruler will slide right in there. Then just screw the nut up tight and 
> you're in!
>
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>
>
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Max Robinson
>  To: Blind Handyman
>  Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:06 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Putting the ruler back into your combination 
> square.
>
>
>  A combination square, which my dad called a try square, is very useful
>  around the shop especially for a blind worker. It is as every bit as
>  effective for transferring distances as a click ruler or a rotomatic. The
>  one I have had for many years was a little off square so I went to buy a 
> new
>  one. I found that they come in ruler lengths of 6, 12, and 18 inches. I
>  left the store with all three. It has two parts, a thin metal ruler, and 
> a
>  casting which has two machined surfaces, one at 90 degrees and the other 
> at
>  45 degrees to the ruler. The casting part also contains a bubble level 
> and
>  a sharply pointed scribe is also stored in a hole. Neither of these is
>  likely to be very useful to a totally blind person but they are there
>  anyway. Although the lines were apparently etched into the surface of the
>  ruler, it would take some pretty sensitive fingers to read it by feel. 
> You
>  could always get the exact measurement from one of the afore mentioned
>  rulers and use the square to transfer the distance to the work. OK, now
>  that you are convinced that you need a combination square you can get out
>  the one that you have had for years and start using it. When you loosen a
>  knurled nut that is in a cutout in the casting the ruler can be slid back
>  and forth. It can also be pulled or fall completely out. That is what 
> this
>  message is about, how to put it back in. It's a piece of cake for a 
> sighted
>  person but only a little more difficult for a blind one. The first step
>  is to remove the knurled nut. When you turn it the screw just turns 
> inside
>  the casting and it never unscrews.
>
>  1. Stick the ruler into the slot it came out of and up against the screw.
>  You don't need to use a lot of force, just enough to keep the screw from
>  turning.
>
>  Do the next step over a clean workbench or table.
>
>  2. loosen and remove the nut. There is a spring under it so be sure to
>  capture it so you don't lose it. Place the spring and nut in a shallow 
> dish
>  to keep them from rolling away.
>
>  3. Remove the ruler from the slot and hold your hand under the casting
>  while turning it so the slot is down. The screw will slide out into your
>  hand, or fall on the floor if Murphy has anything to say about it.
>
>  4. Examine the screw. You will see how it holds the ruler in place.
>
>  5. Place the foot of the screw in the slot in the ruler so the screw is 
> at
>  right angles to the ruler.
>
>  6. Holding the screw and ruler, slide the ruler into the slot on the side
>  of the casting so the screw goes into the hole where the slot gets wider.
>
>  7. Push the ruler all the way into the slot and the threaded end of the
>  screw should protrude from the place it came from.
>
>  8. Place the spring over the end of the screw and then thread the knurled
>  nut onto it. Snug it down so the ruler won't fall out again.
>
>  That's all there is to it handy boys and handy girls. I've already posted
>  the instructions for using one of these squares to set a miter gauge to
>  exactly 90 degrees. I also use it to set the distance between the saw 
> blade
>  and rip fence, and to set the position of a piece of wood for cross 
> cutting
>  with the miter gauge. The uses are limited only by your imagination.
>
>  Regards.
>
>  Max. K 4 O D S.
>
>  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
>  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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>
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