Damn...
Nicely said...
Don their is your next BHM show .

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table


Hi Dale,

I had a table saw long before I finally got a circular saw however I did
have a jig saw which I used a lot for reducing plywood and other sheet goods
down to manageable sizes.

Thing is that even with a very big and top end table saw, wrestling sheet
goods, even relatively light ones like quarter inch plywood around on a
table saw is not only difficult but does add significant injury risk. You
can add infeed and outfeed tables if you have enough shop space but it is
still damn difficult and although I did quite a bit of it as a younger man I
don't much fancy it today.

If you are likely to do a lot of cabinet work into the future or where you
need a high degree of accuracy to finished panels the table saw is what you
want.

Excellent work of most types can be accomplished with a hand held circular
saw and a little care. It becomes somewhat more difficult to reproduce a
series of identical cuts than with the fence on a table saw but again using
jigs or other measuring sticks and such it certainly can be done.

One can even cut dados and rabbets with care but it is more difficult. One
can of course buy both a decent circular saw and a router or two and still
have a pretty good chunk of change from the price of a decent table saw.

A table saw certainly can be used safely by the blind. There are different
techniques depending on your confidence and skill complement of course. You
may wish to use path finding techniques to ensure safety, knowing that the
blade is always in the same place means if you need you can locate some safe
part of the machine like the far right near edge of the wing and near rail
of the fence then follow that back to the fence and down to the switch for
example. If on the other hand you are a little more sure of yourself you
might, as I usually end up doing, kick the power switch on with the toe of
my shoe. My saw is a 1975 vintage with a standard light switch for power.
Kicking it off while controlling work and waiting for the blade to spin down
sometimes requires a little imagination. Modern machines usually have
something like a recessed push button for on and a big square panel you can
hit with about any body part to turn it off.

The beauty of a table saw is that it is relatively easy to set the rip fence
to a suitable distance with a ruler or what ever, even an already cut piece
can be slid up against the blade and the fence slid up to it.

Using a circular saw with a decent shop made jig can be quite accurate too
provided it is the sort where the base comes out where the saw has cut it
flush so you can tell exactly where the blade will cut. Otherwise you must
include an offset to the edge of the shoe for aligning the guide as I have
to do since I still haven't got around to making such a jig. I recently saw
a jig designed for cross cutting with a pivot for locking in an angle. It is
interesting in a way, I well remember observers goggling my makeshift jigs
in some kind of wonder and now 30 years later they sell them in major
department stores albeit rather more refined (and expensive) than the blind
pioneered of necessity.

Unless you expect to continue a vigorous hobby into the future I think I
would hold off the table saw. You will always want a circular saw anyway. It
is well worth while to buy a good quality one. This can be said of all tools
and it is also true of a table saw only a decent table saw will cost in the
range of 800 to 1000 dollars. A cheaper one will disappoint and you won't be
wanting to use it a lot. If you really get into the work you will soon
regret not having bought a better one and your money will be wasted. It may
discourage you from continuing. You can get a darn good little 7 and a
quarter inch circular saw for a hundred and fifty bucks or less, I really
like my little Makita MAG model for about a hundred and twenty five, good
quality, light, toolless blade change, it is available in right and left
side blade and should remain accurate as it is a well made tool.

Doubtless there will be other opinions, there are a lot of stamped steel
table saws for a couple of hundred bucks out there and I don't intend to get
into a debate on that. I have used them occasionally on a job site and they
work well enough where 8th inch accuracy is adequate, light to shift onto
the bed of a pickup truck and not a big loss if they get knocked around a
bit but beyond construction carpentry I don't like or recommend them.

I hope this is helpful.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dale Alton 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:20 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Circular or table


  Hi gang,

  I am contemplating purchasing a circular saw or a table saw. I know I have
to cut some plywood to make a counter for the wet bar I am in the midst of,
and yes if you like keg beer come on over. I am also thinking about making a
little cupboard type of thing to put by my front door. The thing I don't
know for sure is which saw would be better for me. Are table saws safe for a
total to use? I think I would get the use out of either but don't know what
would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  Dale

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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