The trouble is how you space them and that the rear supports need a sort of wedge on the top side of the scallop. You can slip the front nose of the shelf into the appropriate slot but the back edge won't drop in unless you cut that wedge.
You could make the shelf narrow enough that one end slides in while the other just slips past the support members then slide it laterally half the width of the support but you risk it sliding laterally at some unexpected time and one end falling down. Other than that it is a technique which works well. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. ----- Original Message ----- From: Lenny McHugh To: Handyman-Blind Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 8:03 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] printer stand I am starting to plan a printer stand for a friend. I plan to put 4 adjustable shelves inside and the stand will be 36" high. I do have the shelf pin jig but an considering a very old technique. This technique is to take two 1 - 1/2" boards and drill 3/4" holes down the center 3/8 or 1/2" apart. Then rip the boards in half. These 4 pieces will become the front and rear shelf supports. For the shelves use3/4" stock and make a bullnose on the sides and front or a decorative front edge. The shelves will neatly slide into the supports. This is to make a scalloped look for the front. Has anyone done anything similar? I think that if I use oak the will be little chance of the supports breaking off. Lenny http://www.geocities.com/lenny_mchugh/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
