I think he was asking about a board the was long and narrow. The tool I was talking about holds a long board from raising up off the blade until it clears the last hold down and keeps your hands away from the blade. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Schwery To: [email protected] Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:22 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] table saw safety accessories
Dale's question was about cutting a board that is bigger than the table. I suppose one could clamp a board under the board to be cut, sliding the clamped board along the table. earlier, Bob Kennedy, wrote: >A few years back I went to the Woodworking Show in Charlotte, NC. >One of the brothers that own one of the many companies at the show >was there demonstrating his system for safety and accuracy. The >system is called the Grip-Tite system. Basically it is a long piece >of steel about 4 inches tall and bent at 90 degrees at the top. The >bend is only to add strength to the steel, it isn't important otherwise. > >The steel plate has holes counter sunk into it along the length and >you screw it to a piece of wood which becomes the back. The wood is >then held against the original fence of the table saw. So if the >picture isn't clear mentally at this point, you have a 4 inch tall >fence now attached to your original fence. > >The part that makes this special is the clamps that hold the wood >down. They are awesome magnets inside of a lexan housing and they >stick extremely well to this fence face. On the side of the magnet >housing is a wheel that rolls as the wood passes under it. This >keeps the wood pressed firmly against the surface of the saw bed and >won't let a board raise up off the blade as the leverage increases >at the outfeed side. > >There are 2 magnets, one for the front and one at the back of the >fence. Since I bought mine, they have come out with some new >accessories that I haven't checked into yet but since I just got a >new table saw myself, I will need to figure out a better way to fit >this. I have the Biesemeyer fence on the saw and can't attach the >old system to the new fence. They do however, make clamps to fit the >bigger fences. > >If you ever get near a Woodcraft store or something similar, be sure >to have them show you how this works. I am a hard head when it comes >to blade guards and leave mine off all the time. As dirty Harry >said, "A man's got to know his limitations." And I do. So I know how >far I need to keep my hands from the blade and don't challenge the >blade in any way. What is so neat about these magnets is once they >are in place on the fence face, there is a handle on the housing >that will also serve as a blade guard. If you are having a brain >cramp while feeding wood through the blade, your hand will run into >the magnet first. Believe me, it is big enough you won't just pass >over it and hit the blade unless you intend to. I don't have 1 >handy, but estimating I would say the magnet housing is about 3 >inches wide and about 6 inches end to end. The handle fits my hand >and comes off the top which is probably an inch and a half thick. So >at the end of the handle it is roughly 5 or 6 inches tall. Tallisn't >the right word since the bottom sticks to the fence and that makes >the handle point to the side at that point... I have never had a >kick back when I used the magnets on a cut. Once you stick one to >the fence, you are in for a surprise getting it loose. They have a >lever on the tail that works a cam to help break some of the >magnetic force. They will snap to the fence from about an inch away >so you learn quickly where not to have your fingers. > >Obviously I was impressed with the whole Grip-Tite system. But I >think what sold me completely was the guy selling it. He puts on a >show so you can see how well it works. At the show I watched the guy >push a 2 by 4 through the blade and after it was about half way >along the cut, he gave the wood a push sideways and the blade was >binding and screaming. The board never kicked back at him. It was a >demonstration of course he knows better than to cut like that. After >everyone was through talking to him I introduced myself and asked if >he would show it to me. He let me run my hands all over the saw and >then he asked if I wanted to make a cut. I'd have bought the tool at >that time just because of his attitude. What he wanted me to know >was that I couldn't get my hands near the blade unless I wanted to. >He said once you run into the handle of the magnet, you know the >blade is about 4 inches beyond and that is your stopping point. He >knew I was a total and it didn't scare him at all for me to use the >saw And you know how the courts would nail him if I would have >gotten hurt. You can Google >Grip-Tite and read some of the reviews on it. They sell for around >$129 US, and they are worth every penny. > >----- Original Message ----- >From: Dale Alton >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 11:29 PM >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tips, tricks, and knowledge > >Well I did it. I bought both. I am still hesitant with the table saw >but am excited to use it. I want to be as careful as possible and >want the subject on using a table saw. I am primarily concerned with >a piece larger than the table. How is a person suppose to run say a >8 foot piece of 1" x ^' through the table by himself? I like my 10 digits. >Thanx, >Dale > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date: >12/15/2007 12:00 PM John ---------- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
