Hi Lenny
Try here
http://www.whitechapel-ltd.com/hist/locks.shtml
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Historical Guide to Cabinet Locks


> Ray, what is the source of this information?
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 3:22 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Historical Guide to Cabinet Locks
>
>
> The need to secure precious objects is so innate to humans and many other
> animals that it is not surprising the earliest locks appear as long ago as
> 4000
>    years. The oldest known locks employed a pin tumbler mechanism much 
> like
> that of our modern "Yale" lock but on a far larger scale. They have been
> found
> in cultures as diverse as those of Egypt, Japan and Norway. The Romans can
> be credited with the invention of the metal lock and in fact developed the
> "warded
> lock" which uses the familiar skeleton key still common enough today. 
> Warded
> locks rely on sections of concentric ridges around which the key must fit
> in order for it to act on the locks sliding bolt (see diagram below). Time
> passed and the increasing complexity of these locks became a source of 
> much
> pride to the locksmithing profession and some misplaced assurance to the
> person with much to protect. Of course the lock picker was never far 
> behind
> these
> advances and being engaged in a prideful profession demanded job
> satisfaction only more advanced locks could provide. The late 18th century
> gave him a
> more challenging device, the double action lever lock (see diagram below).
> This mechanism is found in most furniture grade cabinet locks today. As 
> the
> key slides the bolt into or out of the lock it also moves one or more 
> spring
> loaded levers away from the bolt's path. The more levers, the harder the
> lock
> is to pick.
>
> Warded lock
>
> Lever lock
>
> Today
>
> Today the use of locks on furniture has become somewhat redundant. In
> earlier times locks in the domestic realm were intended to frustrate not
> outsiders
> but children or those in the employ of the household. These days a locked
> drawer might deter a passing child but the real predators are more likely 
> to
> come from outside and rarely have the time or interest to develop skill in
> the craft of lock-picking. Their modus operandi more likely involves the 
> use
> of wrecking bars etc and in any case they might realize the contents of a
> nice piece of furniture is in all likelihood of less value than the
> furniture
> itself and simply abscond with the whole thing, locks and all. Whether 
> they
> serve any practical function or not, we have become so used to seeing 
> locks
> on fine antiques that a drawer without one seems as blank as a face 
> without
> a nose.
>
> In many situations the key of a lock served as the handle for a door or
> drawer while the lock itself took the place of the catches we are so
> familiar with
> today. Aside from the finger turn type of catch the 18th century was
> remarkably short on door catch technology so the lock would find 
> application
> wherever
> a door needed positive closure. Today we like the convenience of our
> magnetic and ball type catches and often wish to use then on reproduction
> style cabinetry.
> Attempting to find an appropriate knob or handle to take the place of an
> escutcheon and key is no easy matter and leads many otherwise respectable
> cabinetmaking
> efforts to fail needlessly. It will always be worth the extra effort to do
> the job right and fit a lock.
>
> Choices
>
> Traditional cabinet locks are available in an array of mounting, material
> and size choices to suit most preferences. Three alternative mounting
> configurations
> are the "
> Half Mortise", "
> Full Mortise"
> and "Surface Mount" style lock cases. The "Half Mortise" lock is the one
> found on almost all fine English and American antiques prior to the middle
> of the
> 19th century. This type of lock is mortised into the back side and edge of
> the work and lays flush. The "Full Mortise" lock is mortised into the edge
> of
> the work. The "Surface Mount" lock is simply screwed to the inside face of
> the work. Each of these types has its advantages.
> Terms
>
> The various names for the parts of a lock and the definition of a left or
> right hand lock are a source of endless confusion!. Here is our glossary.
> (Beware:
> our definition of left and right hand are the opposite of some others,
> including even our own lock manufacturers!)
>
> Bolt - When you turn the key the bolt is the part that projects out of the
> lock.
>
> Selvedge - The face of the lock through which the bolt projects.
>
> Plate - The face of the lock onto which the mechanism is attached.
>
> Distance to pin - The measurement from the selvedge to the center of the
> keyhole.
>
> Backset - The same as distance to pin.
>
> Full Mortise - A lock whose body is entirely mortised into the wood.
>
> Half Mortise - A lock mounted into a shallow mortise in the back of the
> work.
>
> Surface mounted - A lock that is screwed to the back of the work with no
> mortising required.
>
> Left Hand - A lock mounted to a door hinged on its left hand edge (or the
> reverse, depending on where you get the lock).
>
> Right Hand - A lock mounted to a door hinged on its right hand edge (or 
> the
> reverse, etc as above).
>
> Levers - Spring loaded obstructions that the key moves out of the path of
> the bolt. The more levers the more difficult it will be to pick the lock.
>
> Half Mortise Locks
>
> Half mortise lock The half mortise lock strikes a good balance between 
> ease
> of installation and unobtrusive utility. The work necessary to fit these
> locks
> makes greater demand on finesse than muscle, all the cuts are of the wide,
> shallow nature rather than the more problematic narrow, deep variety
> demanded
> by the full mortise lock. This attribute suited the pre-power tool
> cabinetmaker. Because the half mortise lock is always registered against 
> the
> inside
> surface of the work the bolt is biased to the rear. Traditional
> cabinetmaking accommodated this rearward bias with casework drawer 
> dividers
> constructed
> of sufficient width material. In modern face frame construction this
> characteristic can lead to problems and either the full mortise or surface
> mounted
> lock could be a better choice.
>
> Half mortise locks were rarely paired with a strike plate. The bolt of the
> lock would engage into a simple mortise cut directly in the adjacent
> woodwork.
> Aside from the remote possibility of catastrophic wear taking place there 
> is
> no downside to this method. Strike plates serve no useful purpose and cost
> the cabinetmaker time and money.
>
> Due to the internal mechanical layout of the half mortise lock the key is
> invariably off center in relation to the lock body. Before laying out the
> cuts
> for these locks take note of this fact!
>
> Full Mortise Locks
>
> These locks were virtually unknown before the days of mechanized
> woodworking. Because a full mortise lock is fitted into a deep mortise
> Full mortise lock cut into the edge of the work it is troublesome to 
> install
> without a mortising machine, with one it could hardly be easier. The 
> reverse
> is true of the half mortise lock.
>
> Though conceived with rapid and mechanized installation in mind they are 
> not
> without some drawbacks. The bolt will generally be centered in the work
> rather
> then biased to the rear as in the case of the half mortise lock. This may
> result in certain benefits related to constructional simplicity but also
> brings
> the bolt nearer the front of the casework making it more likely for that
> area to break out under force (a strike plate can compensate by 
> reinforcing
> this
> area).
>
> A full mortise lock can also be a problem installed in thinner material. 
> For
> any given lock thickness a full mortise lock will leave two walls half the
> thickness of the one wall left by a half mortise lock. An additional minor
> consequence of this forward positioning is the attachment of the keyhole
> escutcheon.
> Keyhole escutcheons are normally attached with brass escutcheon pins. If 
> the
> wall thickness left after the lock mortise is cut is limited then these 
> pins
> will have little to secure themselves to.
>
> As with a half mortise lock, the keyhole is off center in the lock.
>
> Surface Mount Locks
>
> Surface mount locks are simply screwed to the back of the door or drawer
> front, no cutting required. Most surface
> Surface mount lockmounted locks have a dual keyhole allowing them to
> function as both hands of door lock as well as a drawer lock. The keyhole 
> is
> usually
> centered in the upright width of the lock and the bolt can exit from 
> either
> side depending on which way the key is turned.
>
> The bolt of a surface mount lock will engage behind the adjacent face 
> frame
> or door to prevent opening.
>
> These attributes make surface mounted locks versatile and popular, but 
> like
> many things easy and convenient they are not going to impress anyone with
> their
> refinement. Surface mount lock appears to have historical credibility on
> country styles of furniture particularly as door locks but should probably
> be
> avoided on more formal work.
>
>
>
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>
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>
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