Max,

The primary purpose for a jointer is to straighten an edge and make it precise 
to the face of a board, usually 90 degrees but you can set the fence to any 
angle out to at least 45. Although dressed lumber comes from the lumber yard it 
is not necessarily all that straight and not even always square. This often 
doesn't matter but if you are laminating boards together to form a wide board 
you want the edges absolutely true to the faces of the boards and you want them 
straight so they glue up without any gaps.

Another reason is when ripping boards, you cut a straight edge with the jointer 
so your saw can use that reference for another straight cut absolutely parallel 
always assuming the saw is properly aligned and tuned.

Finally as said by someone else, you can use a jointer to flatten the face of a 
board which has a crown or a twist in it. this depends on the width of your 
jointer bed in large measure. Mine is 6 inches and for most things it is 
adequate but not wonderful for flattening boards of any width. I have some 10 
inch wide rough which I can only improve to a point before thickness them. It 
can be done but I should really have a wider bed for that. Even dressed lumber 
can get twisted but this is a less common need.

You can of course purchase a few quality hand planes. A jointing plane will 
cost about a hundred and fifty bucks and so will a large long surfacing plane. 
The skill can be easily enough learned but you will also want a good reliable 
sharpening system for the blades. I have a Stanley #5 hand plane I really like 
but I also didn't know how much I liked having a jointer until I bought one. I 
now like to cut timber just a touch wide and edge it to precise dimension with 
the jointer just for the quality of the edge and you can make nice edges on MDF 
and with care even improve the edges on plywood. You don't want a good hand 
plane to touch those materials.

A couple of really good hand planes will do just fine and maybe you should have 
them anyway but you can get a pretty decent long bed jointer for about the same 
price as a couple of gook hand planes.

If you do decided you want one get as long a bed as you can afford. For general 
carpentry you don't need one but if you get into even moderate quality 
furniture making you will probably want one.

If you don't have a router or two I suggest start there.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Max Robinson 
  To: Blind Handyman 
  Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 12:45 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Do I really need one?


  I'm wondering if I really need a plainer and/or joiner. I see Norm on the 
  Yankee workshop use his but he does some pretty advanced stuff. For 
  example, I once saw a show where he visited a wood lot and picked out the 
  trees he wanted. They were felled, taken to a sawmill where they were 
  milled to Norm's specifications. When they arrived in his shop they still 
  had bark on the edges and were very rough. Obviously, he needed to do some 
  plaining on them. In another show he visited an old barn in Georgia which 
  was torn down and he picked out the boards he wanted and they were shipped 
  to Yankee country. I doubt if I will ever do anything even close to this. 
  I go to Lowe's or Home Depot and buy dimensioned boards of pine, oak, or 
  what ever, take them home and build the project. So, do I really need one? 
  If I could only buy one, which one?

  By the way, older shows of Yankee workshop are now showing on the D I Y 
  channel. In the original P B S version where he used the barn wood he used 
  a hand held metal detector to find nails so he could remove them before 
  ruining his expensive equipment on them. In the D I Y version they showed 
  him removing nails but the part about the metal detector was cut out. The 
  shows have been cut down to 20 minutes so they can get in 10 minutes of 
  commercials. Better watch them on P B S.

  Regards.

  Max. K 4 O D S.

  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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