One thing I did not hear you say is about the timer in the heat pump that makes it kick in to defrost mode. If this is not set correctly for your part of the country your in it might use either to much energy or wont kick in to defrost mode in time to keep the unit from freezing up. Just a thought.
Peawee ( [EMAIL PROTECTED] ) -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Boyce, Ray Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 3:51 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Here are methods for troubleshooting common heat pump problems: No heat Most heating system failures are caused by thermostat malfunctions, a tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse, or--in the case of combustion furnaces--a pilot light that has gone out. If the heat doesn't come on even when you adjust the thermostat to a setting above room temperature: 1) Be sure the thermostat is set to "Heat" (if yours is a heating and cooling system). If it isn't, turn it to "Heat." 2) Be sure the furnace's circuit breaker is on or that its fuse has not blown. Check both the main electrical panel and any secondary sub-panels that supply power to the unit. If the circuit has blown or tripped, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse. If the circuit blows again, there is a probably a short in the electrical system providing power to the furnace. Call an electrical contractor. 3) Be sure the heat pump's power switch is turned on; it is usually located next to or inside the furnace cabinet. If it isn't on, turn it on and wait a few minutes for the air handler to engage. 4) The motor may need to be reset because of an overload. Look for a RESET button near the blower motor's housing and, if you find one, press it. If nothing happens, wait about 30 minutes for the motor to cool, then try the RESET button again. 5) Turn off the power to the heat pump at the main electrical panel or sub-panel. Look for a fuse in the power switch. If there is one there, it may have blown. Replace the fuse (be sure to follow instructions in your owner's manual). If you don't have an owners's manual or are not clear about what it will take to do this, call a heating repair technician. 6) Check the heat pump's ignition, according to the owner's manual. 7) If it still doesn't work, be sure the thermostat isn't faulty (see below). 8) If none of this works, call a heating contractor or heat pump repair technician. Insufficient heat If your heat pump runs and provides some heat but not enough, be sure nothing is blocking the flow of warm air. 1) First be sure the thermostat is set properly. Try raising the set temperature 5 degrees and waiting a few minutes. 2) Be sure the room heating registers are open. 3) Check the heat pump filter. If it's dirty, change it . 4) If these simple steps don't work, have a heat pump repair technician check out your system--either the blower isn't working properly or the system is out of balance. Heat pump trips circuit breaker Most heat pumps have auxiliary heating elements that provide heat when the weather gets really cold because the heat pump's efficiency drops too low. These elements automatically turn on at a fairly low temperature: around 20 degree F. When they come on, they may be drawing too much power, which trips the circuit breakers. Just locate the circuit breaker that serves the heat pump and reset it. Heat pump turns on and off too often If your heat pump cycles off and on too frequently, the problem is likely to be with the thermostat. See the thermostat-related problems below for information on repairing this problem. When a heat pump turns off and on too frequently, the problem may be that the unit is overheating because of a clogged filter or blower that is malfunctioning. Try cleaning or replacing the filter. If that doesn't do the trick, call a heat pump repair technician. Major room temperature swings When room temperatures swing more than about 3 degrees between when the heat pump goes off and on again, it generally means that the heat pump isn't cycling on often enough. See "How to Adjust the Heat Anticipator." Room temperature goes either too high or too low When room temperature rises higher or drops lower than the set temperature on the thermostat, it usually means that the thermostat is improperly calibrated or installed where it doesn't sense a proper sampling of room air. See Thermostats Report. Blower runs continuously This may be caused by two things: the thermostat mounted on the wall or the limit switch located on the heat pump just below the plenum (the box that distributes heated air to all of the ducts). The limit switch is designed to shut off the heat pump if the air in the plenum gets too hot. Check the thermostat to see if the "Fan" switch has been turned on. If it has, turn it to "Off" or to "Auto." If it is set to "Off" or "Auto" already, the heat pump's limit switch must be adjusted. Call a heat pump repair technician to adjust the limit switch or, if you are handy with this type of repair, follow the instructions in your owner's manual to reset the pointers on the fan side of the limit control. The lower pointer should be set to about 90 degrees F and the upper one should be at about 115 degrees F. Air handler squeals Squealing sounds from a forced-air heat pump generally occur when the belt that connects the motor to the fan slips. If the blower is making a grinding noise, shut off the unit and call a heat pump repair technician --the motor's bearings are probably shot. In most cases, the belt is improperly aligned or worn and needs replacement. Follow the instructions in your owner's manual (if you don't have one, contact the manufacturer and ask for one). This job involves removing the access panel, loosening a couple of bolts that hold the blower motor at the proper tension, and realigning or adjusting the belt. In many cases, it's a good idea to remove it and buy a replacement at the hardware store. When reinstalling the belt, be careful not to over-tighten it--this can wear out the motor bearings. Heat pump rattles If theheat pump makes rattling noises when it runs, be sure the cover panels are screwed on tight. If they aren't, tighten them. Other noises may be coming from squealing belts (see above), or rattling ductwork (see below). Air ducts are noisy Many heating ducts are metal, so they conduct noise quite readily from the air-handling unit to your rooms. To break the conduction of sound, you can have a heating contractor insert flexible insulation ductwork between the heat pump and the ductwork runs. If you hear a pinging or popping sound coming from the ductwork, this may be caused by thermal expansion or by air blowing past a loose flap of metal. Track along the duct runs, listening for the sound. If you find it, make a small dent in the sheet metal to provide a more rigid surface that's less likely to move as it heats and cools. ********************************************************************** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. Any content of this message and its attachments which does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by Eraring Energy. 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