Dale. Do you have a postage scale? Maybe there is one at your office you could borrow.
Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray Boyce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 6:20 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dissolving shellac > Hi Dale > I hope this helps. > balance of the alcohol. The consistency of shellac is > determined by "cut". A 3 lb. cut would be 3 lbs. of shellac > flakes per one gallon of high quality Denatured Alcohol > solvent. If you have never worked with shellac before it is > recommended that you start with a light consistency, > preferably about a 1 lb. cut (1 lb. of flake to 1 Gal.; > -- or [1/4 lb. in a Qt.] of Denatured Alcohol). > To mix 1 pint of 1 Lb. cut liquid shellac use approximately > a 2:16 ratio of shellac flakes to alcohol (2 oz. of shellac flakes > dissolved in 16 oz. of alcohol). Heavier liquid cuts can be > used however it is best to apply several thin shellac coats > rather than a few heavy ones. > After the shellac is fully dissolved, it should be strained > through a fine mesh cheese cloth to remove any impurities. > Shellac is made from the lac bug and a few bits of bug > carcass are often left particularly in Seed Lac. Before the > liquid shellac is used, it should be shaken or stirred > thoroughly and allowed to stand for a few hours. After > dissolving, the different flake colours may be intermixed > to obtain various colours or shades of shellac. > Application > (For padding application see: French Polishing information) > When applying as an undercoater prior to other finishes use > a dewaxed shellac. Shellac should be applied in long strokes > with the grain. On larger projects or in hot weather a little > shellac retarder will help flowout and minimize brushstrokes. > Dip a good natural bristle brush about half way into the > shellac and gently clear excess shellac against the side of the > container, this gives a reasonably filled brush for full strokes > without incorporating air in the shellac. Shellac should be > sanded between coats. Allow each coat to dry thoroughly. If > the shellac is dry, sanding will produce a fine powder on the > surface. If the shellac is not dry it will be somewhat tacky to > sand and the paper will clog. After sanding, wipe the piece > thoroughly with a tack cloth and recoat. Depending upon > temperature and humidity conditions, allow from two to four > hours drying for each coat. Some craftsmen prefer to do their > finish sanding of the raw wood after first giving it a coat of > shellac since this stiffens the wood fibers and allows any > rough portions to be fully sanded off. > After the desired number of coats has been applied, the > finish can be rubbed with LIBERON #0000 oil free & long > stranded Steel Wool or fine pumice with paraffin oil. > Rubbing should always be done with the grain. 48 - 96 hours > after the final rubbing, to protect your shellac finish, apply a > thin coat of LIBERON Black Bison paste wax. Allow the > wax to dry completely and buff with a soft cotton cloth. > LIBERON / Star Wood Finish Supply, P.O. Box 86, Mendocino, CA 95460 . > 707-962-9480 > Restoration, Repair, & Finishing Supplies > Shellac Flake > 8/19/00 > Seed Lac: > Warm Neutral Brown, unprocessed, excellent > for older antique restorations and repairs. > Button Lac: (Genuine Buttons) > Golden Light Brownish Amber on darker > woods - least refined, used on old antiques. > Garnet Lac: > Deep Rich Brownish with a warm cast. > Dewaxed Garnet: > Deep Rich Brown-Red cast. > Lemon Yellow / Orange: > general purpose light yellow creamy colour. > Dewaxed Lemon Yellow: > general purpose rich yellow-orange colour. > BLONDE Dewaxed: > Light Pale Transparency. > PLATINA Dewaxed > Extra LITE Pale Platinum Blonde Transparent. > Needed for mixing: > high grade Denatured Alcohol. > To Aid Brushing: > Shellac Retarder to slow drying > & to help eliminate brushmarks. > Shellac is an excellent quick drying, non waterproof, finish. > Shellac requires experience in order to be able to use it to its > full potential. Flake form allows fresh quality shellac to be > prepared and avoid waste. Use shellac to seal in sap, resin, > grease or oil marks after cleaning and prior to painting or > lacquering. Thinned shellac makes an excellent stain barrier > coat or hold out coat especially on soft woods and difficult or > end grain prior to staining. Test all mixed shellac for drying > if several months old. If the surface stays tacky after 8 hours > and does not sand freely without gumming, the shellac is old > and will not dry and must be discarded. > Dissolving & Mixing > Mix in a dark plastic or glass container with a tightly fitting > lid. Store in a cool and dark place if a clear container is used. > Soak the flake shellac in about 1/2 of the total alcohol to be > used for 24 hours or longer (cool room temperatures will > slow the process; pulverize the button shellac to speed > dissolving) stir occasionally and when dissolved add the > WFS > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 10:25 AM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Dissolving shellac > > >> Hi, >> >> Sorry for cross posting to the list and to Larry however I need a little >> assistance. >> >> I want to make up a two pound cut of dark garnet shellac. Usually you >> would measure out the volume of alcohol and the weight of shellac flakes >> however I don't have a suitable scale or the time to acquire one or the >> inclination come to that. I only want about a cup of the solution, OK, >> that math isn't beyond me but does anyone know volume by weight of >> shellac >> flakes? >> >> I seem remember a Web site and it might even be bookmarked on my sick >> computer which is presently at the Doctor and for some reason google >> isn't >> working here today. >> >> I have an idea that 2 fl.oz. of flakes might be right but somehow that is >> too close to the right weight in ounces which makes me suspicious. >> >> Thanks. >> >> Hopefully google will come back soon, I can't imagine why it isn't >> working >> but all I get is one of those "page cannot be found" messages. >> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1294 - Release Date: 2/22/2008 > 6:39 PM > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1294 - Release Date: 2/22/2008 > 6:39 PM >
