Actually, a back saw has the teeth oriented in the opposite direction so they 
point back toward the operator. They cut on the pull stroke rather than the 
push stroke. This has a couple of advantages, the blade can be a lot thinner 
because it doesn't buckle or bend as it does on a push stroke. Usually these 
saws have a very fine tooth for cutting very clean and splinter-free cuts and 
often people find it easier to make more accurate straight cuts. They are 
sometimes used with a stiffening back too for some applications like miter 
sawing.

A back saw though takes some getting used to when starting the cut.





  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jewel Blanch 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 5:47 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Backed saw


  That's a good idea Bob! I have a bow saw but I use it only for sawing 
firewood.
  It would make a rather rough cut I would imagine, because of the distance 
between the teeth but that could be tidied up with a bit of sandpaper.

  Jewel
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bob Kennedy 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:19 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Backed saw

  Maybe you should think about a bow saw if you are cutting timber. They are 
fairly inexpensive as saws go, around 8 to 10 dollars. 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jewel Blanch 
  To: bhm 
  Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 1:49 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Backed saw

  I was just reading through one of Ray's recent contributions to the list on 
the ten most critical
  tools that should be inyour tool box. One of them was a saw, and the article 
went on to talk about
  backed saws that have steel reinforcing on the top edge of the blade to keep 
it stiff.
  Now, a saw that insists on bending and flexing is a right royal pain in the 
neck, so that one that
  stayed stiff as you pushed would be a boon, but the reinforcing prevents you 
from sawing to a depth
  greater than the width of the saw.: not convenient at all, so is it possible 
to get a slotted
  length of steel that you can slip onto the saw blade, holding it in place 
with a couple of wing
  bolts so that the stiffening frame can be removed if the timber to be sawn is 
thicker than the
  stiffening frame will allow?

  Jewel

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