Hi Dan,

Have you considered removing the door, building out the extension on the frame 
say using biscuits and maybe constructing what ever amount of frame to inset 
into the brickwork then reinstall the door.

It would mean some reconstruction and renewing some of the trimming on the 
inside but it would mount the door in the way you need and want. It would look 
good too.

You might want or need to create a face frame over the face of the brick if you 
don't have the room for an inset frame and insulate the space. Depending on the 
nature of the bottom, you might be able then to install a pressure treated wood 
sill.

Of course you could also remove the door and replace it with a brand new one.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dan Rossi 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 3:48 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck update.


  It has been a while since I've complained about the deck project. Here is 
  some of the latest and greatest.

  I am somewhat unhappy about the French door installation. It is my fault 
  for not knowing what to be asking for, and for panicking and asking my 
  friend to help me, who I knew would do it in the easiest manner, and not 
  the best manner.

  I should have gotten a door with extended jams, that way I could mount the 
  jams to the wood framing of the house, and the fronts of the doors would 
  have been flush with the brickwork.

  since I got normal width jams, I think about 4 inches wide, we mounted the 
  jams flush to the inner wall of the house, thus they are set back from the 
  brick face and will not open 180 degrees against the outer wall. I didn't 
  know there existed extended jams.

  the reason I chose to mount it to the wood framing rather than the brick 
  exterior, was for two reasons. I knew it would have been a bitch and a 
  half to mount it to the bricks. Secondly, maybe I'm paranoid, but the way 
  the bricks were falling out while I was hammer drilling into them for the 
  deck ledger board, I had serious concerns that the constant opening and 
  closing of the doors would have eventually shook some of the bricks loose 
  that the door was secured to.

  The fact that the door now sits behind the brick face, means that there is 
  a significant gap all around the door between the backs of the brick face 
  and the door. My friend who does things fast and easy wants to just bend 
  some Aluminum and calk it into place along the vertical gaps, and slip a 
  piece of stainless steel under the bottom threshold and over the bricks, 
  and calk it in place. My brother-in-law says sure, you can do it that 
  way, but it will look like shit. He told me how he would do it. He is a 
  contractor and his specialty is fine trim work, so I trust his advice.

  The first part is easy. Just get some 1 by cedar planks and glue them to 
  the brick and tack a few nails in nearer the jam to keep everything tight, 
  then calk some nice seems along the edge. Sounds reasonable. I could 
  even rout a decorative edge along the outer edge of the cedar.

  the bottom sounds much more difficult, so of course, that interests me 
  because I am a masochist.

  Basically, I have to break out the tops of the bricks all along the door 
  opening, this is a soldier course so I actually have to break the bricks. 
  I break them down at least two inches. Then I pour a cement sill in 
  there, right up to the bottom of the door, forming a cement sill or 
  threshold.

  OK, there is one harder version of this, but I am not quite that crazy. 
  He said if I wanted the nice brick look, I could then take a bunch of 
  bricks, cut them to length, and lay them in there sideways and mortar them 
  in place rather than use a cement step.

  My excuse is that I need all the bricks we ripped out to brick up the back 
  door once all the rest of this is done.

  So I learned a lesson. Well, two lessons. You don't know what you don't 
  know, and that will always bight you in the ass. Secondly, if you want 
  something to look good, never ask a guy who fixes up section 8 housing for 
  help.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


   


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