That must be why poplar is so popular.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee A. Stone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Poplar In Woodworking


>
>
>
>
>
> Just a note on the Po0pular  species of trees. Most if not all Popular
> trees are fast growing and one of the few trees like willows that like
> the wet lands although can be grown most anyplace.  Lee
>
>
> On Sun,
> Apr 20, 2008 at 08:29:09AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote:
>> Poplar is a species of wood that is commonly used in woodworking. You can
>> find poplar in many furniture projects, toys and wood turnings because it 
>> is
>> inexpensive, fairly workable and takes nails, screws and glue well. It 
>> works
>> best with paint as a finish, but it can often be stained in an attempt to
>> simulate finer woods (provided the proper steps are taken in the 
>> finishing
>> process). Poplar is also used quite often for more industrial purposes, 
>> such
>> as the core of finer plywoods or for crates and pallets.
>>
>> Types of Poplar: Poplar is considered a hardwood
>> <http://woodworking.about.com/od/typesofwood/p/hardwood.htm>  by species,
>> but this can be somewhat confusing as it is typically softer than pine, a
>> common softwood. In most instances, poplar (or should we say what is sold 
>> as
>> poplar in home centers) is actually the wood from the tulip tree. It is a
>> creamy white-colored wood with brown or gray sections or streaks through 
>> the
>> grain. Garden-variety poplar is also sometimes referred to as yellow 
>> poplar
>> or whitewood, but you may also find poplars to include European black
>> poplar, cottonwood or some types of aspen.
>>
>> Working with Poplar: Poplar is relatively easy to work with, as it takes
>> manipulation with a saw, lathe or router well. One key is to make sure 
>> that
>> your cutting tools are sharp, as poplar can tend to tear if the cutting 
>> edge
>> is less than optimal. When sanding poplar, because of it's relatively 
>> soft
>> nature, be sure to use progressively finer grits of sandpaper, as more
>> coarse grits will leave sanding marks that need to be removed with the 
>> next
>> finer grit of sandpaper. I typically find that if I start sanding with
>> 80-grit, then move to 150, 220, 300 and finally 400-grit sandpaper is a
>> process that yields good results.
>>
>> Finishing Poplar: Poplar is renowned for it's ability to take paint well. 
>> It
>> is commonly the wood stock of choice when building woodworking projects 
>> that
>> will be painted. It is relatively resistant to decay, and when sanded,
>> primed and painted thoroughly, should hold up well to normal wear and 
>> tear
>> for many interior projects. If you intend to use poplar for outdoor
>> woodworking plans, you may need to apply a new coat of paint every couple 
>> of
>> years, depending on the project and location of the finished piece.
>>
>> Staining poplar is another matter entirely. In its native form, poplar 
>> tends
>> to take stain in a very blotchy manner. It is imperative that all 
>> surfaces
>> that will be stained be prepared properly with a couple of coats of a
>> pre-stain 
>> <http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/p/woodConditioner.htm>
>> wood conditioner. This will allow the stain to be applied much more 
>> evenly,
>> and will make the grain of the poplar pop a bit more.
>>
>> Some woodworkers attempt to use poplar to simulate finer woods such as
>> maple. This can be tricky, as the grain is somewhat similar, but to the
>> trained eye, the differences will be obvious. When attempting to mimic
>> another wood like maple, try to use poplar that is relatively free of
>> sections of gray or greenish stock. A bit in the grain is fine, but 
>> poplar
>> tends to have large sections that are of a darker color than the common
>> creamy-white.
>>
>> TIP: For best results when mimicking the look of another wood with 
>> poplar,
>> be sure to test your stain for the right color on scrap cutoffs of the 
>> same
>> poplar boards you used in the project. Remember to apply a couple of 
>> coats
>> of pre-stain wood conditioner to the cutoffs before applying your test
>> stains. Fine-tuning your stain color on scrap stock is far better than
>> staining your entire project with the wrong color.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>
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