Earlier there was discussion about notching around the door stop. That is the narrow piece that the door closes against. It can also be under cut if it is the nailed on style. Some jambs have them as part of the frame. To cut the nailed on ones pry it loose from the bottom so you can put a small piece of wood. A yard stick or scrap of quarter inch plywood would be enough. This would give you clearance to saw the stop without cutting into the jamb frame. You do not have to pry it loose more than a couple of feet while leaving the upper end nailed intact. After cutting use a soft mallet or block of wood to knock it back flush and renail it. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 5:54 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] installing laminate flooring, I get some of it
Dale, thanks again for the info. I wanted to just follow-up and let you know that what I have plan to do is after all the advice I now have a plan of attack. First I couldn't find any proper bit for the Zipsaw so decided to purchase a jig saw, but may not necessarily need it. My father has a very old Black and Decker that's about 3.5 amps which might not be quite up to the task, I'm not sure. He also has this thing called a Whem Allsaw, but not sure what it's all about. So, as a backup, I got a Ryobie saw that isn't super great, but it's not total junk either and if I don't use it, I can at least return it. So, what I'm going to do is take my neighbors advice and start at the doorway or likely all the doorways, but here's the deal as he explained it. Your correct, undercutting the door casing is the important part and basically what I'll need to do is measure and notch the piece that will fit under the door casing. This will allow me to place the flooring up to the piece of the doorframe that the door rests against while closed. This means the transition strip will be under the door while closed, thus achieving the clean look. Now in order to keep things in order, I then take my next piece of flooring and rip it length ways and do this to the end of the hall. This way when I go to lay the next row with full planks, it'll look neat and will fit together. I can use the other half of the plank to fill-in the other side of the hall. I unfortunately couldn't find any carbite blades for the saw I have, but I found some fine blades that will work, but liekly will die quickly, but at $5 I think it'll get me through at least one install and that's fine by me. The only part that really sucks is I found the piece of board on the top step which I guess is still referred to as the stair nose, is not level with the concrete floor and I see little I can do beyond pulling it off and shimming it or just shimming the track I lay down for the stairnose cap. It's amazing what carpet will hide. The good thing is the cap will cover any thing I do to the stairs. It'll be nice to work on the living room floor where at least provided there are no buckled joists etc. the floor should be pretty level and easy to work on. Concrete floors offer a different challenge for sure. So, thanks all for the info and so I'm going to get started on this pretty soon, like hopefully start tomorrow. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
