Regardless of the type and material, siding requires maintenance and
occasional repairs. Some of these are simple, others a bit more complicated.
First, it's a good idea to thoroughly inspect your siding once a year. The
best time to do this is in the winter when many of the shrubs around your
house have less foliage. Look for blistered, loose or peeling paint, warped
boards, cracks, shrunken caulking, broken vinyl, dents in aluminum, as well
as any evidence of termites. Prune back shrubs that have grown closer than 2
feet to the house. Pull down, cut and treat any vines clinging to the house
with herbicides.

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First step is to inspect the building thoroughly for any damage. Trim away
any shrubs or trees, and remove vines. 






Routine Cleaning
The one maintenance chore for all types of siding is cleaning. Mold and
mildew are common problems on any type of siding. This is most common on the
north side of buildings, where there is insufficient sunlight. Wet the
siding and then scrub with a mixture of household detergent,
tri-sodium-phosphate (TSP) and water. A long-handled scrub brush, such as
one used for cleaning boats or automobiles, can make this chore easier.
Then, lightly power-wash the siding to flush away the cleaner and the
loosened materials.

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One of the most common problems is mold and mildew. This may be caused
naturally on the northern side of a building that doesn't get sufficient
sunlight. 

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Remove mold and mildew with a solution of household detergent,
tri-sodium-phosphate (TSP) and water, using a pressure washer.

Mold and mildew can also be caused by a too-tight structure that doesn't
allow the siding to "breath." Peeling and blistering paint can also be
caused by a lack of breathing. As warm, moist vapor from the house flows
through the walls, it reaches the cold siding and condenses. Install vents
in the siding to remedy this problem. Several different types of vents are
available. They should be located between the studs and about 6 inches below
the ceiling level. Holes are drilled in the siding for the vent
installation. Wait about a month for the moisture to escape and the siding
to dry out, then scrape the peeling or blistered area and repaint. In
addition to cleaning, different siding materials also have specific
maintenance and repair chores. Following are tips for each type of siding. 

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Wood Siding
The type of maintenance and repair depends on the finish applied to the
siding. Natural finished sidings, such as Western Red Cedar, usually require
regular applications of a protective oil finish to maintain the original
color. This can be applied with a brush, roller or best with a small
hand-pumped pressure sprayer. 

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Natural-finished wood siding should have a protective oil finish applied
regularly.

Peeling, flaking or blistering paint requires removing the old paint in the
area. A paint scraper, vibrating sander, or combination of paint heat gun
and paint scraper can be used to remove the problem paint. Do not use a blow
torch to heat the paint, because the flame can go into a crack in the siding
and cause a fire. Before cleaning off old paint, drive any popped nails back
in place. After cleaning, fill any cracks with wood putty such as Durham's
Rock Hard Water Putty. Prime the area and repaint. One problem is paint also
chalks and fades over time, and you may need to paint an entire side of the
house to blend the colors. 

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Scrape or remove any peeling, blistered or flaking paint caused by moisture.
Then prime and repaint. 

 

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Holes and cracks can be repaired with wood putty, sanded smooth and
repainted. 


Breaks, cracks, warped and loose siding boards are also common problems.
Clapboard or beveled siding occasionally comes loose at joints and warps or
twists. Remove the old nails, clean and sand any joints that are too tight.
Then add caulking such as DAP Sidewinder and fasten the siding back in place
with exterior self-starting screws in predrilled holes. Set the screws
slightly below the wood surface and putty over them.

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Clapboard, bevel or other types of wood siding often separate at the joints,
resulting in twisting and warped siding. Remove old nails, sand the exposed
end, caulk and fasten back in place with exterior wood screws.


Another clapboard problem is a split. Carefully pry the split apart, squeeze
exterior glue such as Titebond III in place and wedge or clamp the crack
together. Anchor the split parts back in place with screws. For a hole in
the siding, clean out the hole with a small chisel, fill with wood putty,
allow to dry and sand smooth. 

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Broken or deteriorated siding should be removed by first cutting on both
ends of the damaged area with a backsaw and then using a chisel to complete
the removal. Caulk the edges of the joints and replace with a matching
siding piece, fastening with exterior screws.


In some cases sections of wood or hardboard clapboard or bevel siding may be
deteriorated to the point it needs to be replaced. Cut the siding board on
both sides of the damage. Start with a backsaw and finish the cut with a
wide, sharp chisel. Pull out the nails in the board overlapping the damaged
board. Use a chisel to split out the damaged board, and carefully pry out
the top edge from the overlapping board. Be careful not to damage the
building felt, sheathing or the surrounding siding boards. Cut the
replacement siding board to fit, and then drive it up in place so the bottom
edge aligns with the surrounding boards. Fasten in place with screws, then
caulk and fill cracks and over the screw heads with wood putty.

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In some cases whole sections of siding may need to be replaced. If you can't
find replacement siding for some older styles, you can make your own with a
Woodmaster Planer/Moulder. The company offers a wide variety of molding
cutters, and can also custom design a cutter to match your siding or trim
style. 


In some cases you may not be able to purchase older siding shapes or styles.
If you have a woodworking shop and a planer/moulder such as the Woodmaster
Planer/Moulder, you can run your own replacement siding to match the
existing siding. The company has a wide variety of moulding knife patterns
and can also create knives to duplicate any style siding or trim. For
instance in one of our remodeling jobs, we could not purchase siding wide
enough to match the old siding.


One of the most common problems with board-and-batten or vertical siding of
individual boards is a split. Or, plywood siding may have damage caused by
an accident. Pry off the battens, and then pull out the nails holding the
siding to the studs. Use a block of wood to protect the wood surface from
damage during the prying. Remove the defective board or plywood section, and
fasten a replacement section in place with stainless steel or other
non-corrosive nails. Reinstall the battens.  

Aluminum Siding 
Aluminum is one of the most maintenance-free sidings, but it can be damaged.
Dents and cracks are the most common problems. To repair a dent, fit a
self-tapping metal screw with washers or a rubber ferrule. Drill a starting
hole in the center of the dent, fasten the screw in place, then use a pair
of sturdy vice-grip type pliers to pull and straighten out the dent. Remove
the screw and squeeze a bit of plastic aluminum in the hole. Then file and
sand smooth. Add a bit of touch-up paint. A crack can be filled in and
smoothed in the same manner. Replacing a badly damaged piece of siding
usually requires removing the corner caps, prying up the overlapping siding
and removing the holding nails. In many instances you will have to start at
the top of the siding and remove pieces down to the damaged piece.

 

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To repair a dent in aluminum siding, insert a self-starting screw and pull
out the dent by pulling out the screw with pliers.

Vinyl Siding
Vinyl siding is almost maintenance-free. It does not dent or need
repainting, but it can be damaged easily, especially in cold weather. Remove
the corner blocks and, starting at the top, remove succeeding pieces until
you reach the damaged piece. You probably should number the pieces as you
remove them so you can easily replace them in order. Remove the damaged
piece and replace with a new one. Make sure the siding pieces interlock
properly. Don't drive the siding nails or screws in tightly, but leave a
slight space for expansion and contraction of the siding. In some instances
the color of the replacement siding may be a bit different, but will usually
weather to blend in.

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Damaged vinyl siding must be replaced by removing the corner, removing the
siding pieces starting at the top and working down to the damaged piece. 


Another common problem with vinyl siding is a cracked or broken corner post.
The old post can be removed and replaced, but you will need to loosen and
pry out the ends of all siding pieces to get at the corner-post fasteners. A
simpler solution is to cut the flanges off a replacement corner post, slip
it over the damaged corner post and fasten in place with pop-rivets. Then
paint the rivet heads to match the siding.

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A damaged aluminum or vinyl corner can be repaired by cutting the flanges
off a replacement corner, slipping the corner over the existing damaged
corner and anchoring with pop-rivets. 

Other Siding Materials
Brick siding may require an occasional coating with masonry waterproofer.
And, if badly deteriorated, may need the joints tuck-pointed. Cracks and
holes in stucco siding can be repaired with a special mortar such as
Quikrete Stucco Crack Repair. Follow product directions, then paint to
match.

 



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