Hi Dale.  I have a collar for my router and I have seen how Norm makes the 
plywood templates for cutting the mortis for a but hinge.  It is true that 
the mortis will take the vertical component of force but a heavy door is 
going to have torque on it from it's center of mass being some distance from 
the hinges.  I have seen doors in which the screws that hold the upper 
hinges have pulled out.

Regards.

Max.  K 4 O D S.

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----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 8:55 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] But hinges vs strap hinges.


>I believe those are called 'T' hinges.
>
> The beauty of a but hinge is that it is countersunk into the edge of the 
> door and the edge of the frame so much of the weight is born by that 
> mechanical fixation and not the screws at all.
>
> It is usual to drive a long screw from at least one hole in the top and 
> bottom hinge right through the frame and into the building framing member. 
> a two or three inch long screw. Often you will have shimmed the door frame 
> vertical, do it at the hinge point and drive the longer screw through the 
> shims into the building framing member to secure the door frame and the 
> hinge vertical.
>
> They make hinge routing templates to use with a router. I have never owned 
> one but I have made my own templates for routing a very accurate cut-out 
> for the hinge. It makes locating them on the frame and the door more 
> accurate as well.
>
> If you get a hinge template kit I would be very interested in hearing how 
> you get along with it and how you like it.
>
> Those little trim routers are ideal for the job and I have seen Norm and 
> Tom Silver use battery powered routers too. Although I have two routers I 
> don't own either type. I would like to add both to my collection.
>
> T hinges and strap hinges do depend on the sheering force of the screws 
> however the forces on them can easily slightly twist or bend them in my 
> albeit limited experience. For some reason too, I find it difficult to 
> center their pivot point consistently along the edge of the door and when 
> you don't get it exactly right, the door doesn't work well.None of them 
> seem to work well for long, even the ones someone else installs.Maybe the 
> screws move sideways a little, I don't know. Obviously they are popular 
> choices for a lot of people, there must be a reason for that.
>
>
>
>
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Max Robinson
>  To: Blind Handyman
>  Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 8:30 PM
>  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] But hinges vs strap hinges.
>
>
>  I've been thinking about this question of hinges for the doors to my 
> shop.
>  A standard but hinge has the counter sinks drilled so the plates of the
>  hinge are between the two surfaces of the door and the frame as they come
>  together. On a heavy door the screws in the top and center hinge are in
>  tension which is usually not recommended.
>
>  On a strap hinge which is mounted on the outside surface of the door and
>  frame the screws are mostly in sheer which is the condition in which they
>  are strongest. The hinges that were supplied with the lawn mower house 
> kit
>  and those used on the 3 foot wide shop built doors on the teddybear 
> cottage
>  are a kind of hybrid type looking like a strap hinge on one side of the
>  pivot and a but hinge on the other. These are surface mounted like a 
> strap
>  hinge.
>
>  Regards.
>
>  Max. K 4 O D S.
>
>  Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>  Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>  Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>  Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>
>  To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
>
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