Scott, to transfer the angle to your saw, put either part of the square against the fence and the other part against the blade and move the blade until it is flat against the part of the square not on the fence.
earlier, Scott Howell, wrote: >I realize some of you might find this a rather stupid question, but >then if not asked, one will not know for sure. I found one of these >sliding bevel things at Home Depot. It cost me all of $5.97 or so and >I believe I understand how it works, but I thought I'd ask just to be >sure. The gent at the store seem to know exactly how it worked, but >I'm not sure I fully understood what he was saying. I gather that if I >wanted to figure the angle of a corner in a room for a whatever, I >open the sliding bevel so that the pointed end is fully extended and >what I have for a lack of a better description looks like a folding >knife. Now to get the angle, I take this tool and lay the handle >against one wall and the blade against another wall and lock the nut. >So, for the sake of argument, this wall is weird so it's maybe a 20 >degree angle. So, if my description is pretty accurate on the use of >the tool, how do I then go about taking this to my miter saw and >setting it up for the cut. Also, since it slides, how else could I >make use of this tool? >I'm sure I understand, but I'd like to get some feedback from those >who understand that a quick description from someone who is sighted >might not always be real helpful. I will give this guy a lot of >credit. When I went looking at table saws, he gave me honest input, >never once made any statement or indicated I shouldn't use the saw and >was very encouraging about the project I was working on. >tnx >On Jun 24, 2008, at 5:50 PM, Lenny McHugh wrote: > > > With the recent discussion on Companion Sliding T-Bevel Squares I > > was able > > to get Karen to check mine out. I have the Sears Model 39582. > > It is probably a little smaller than some others but I really like > > mine. To > > release the blade there is a large knurl type nut that does not get > > in the > > way. At the end where the blade is controlled the handle is cut down > > so that > > the nut will not protrude and either side can lay flat. The only thing > > written on the blade is Sears, model number and made in USA.I assume > > that > > they still sell them mine was my dad's I would guess it to be about > > 25 years > > old. > > Lenny > > > > > > > >Scott Howell ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG. >Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1516 - Release Date: >6/24/2008 7:53 AM John [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
