Good post, it's a keeper for sure. David Ferrin www.jaws-users.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "handyman-blind" <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 11:23 AM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] removing bark
> Tools of the Trade and the many ways to peel a log. > Here are just a few of the many tools used in log home building. > > > > Timber tote, used in moving smaller logs > > If you're going to be doing any building with logs you will find out very > quickly that some specialty tools can make the job much easier. In this > issue we will focus on de-barking tools, log scribers and peaveys. > > > > Example of a scriber > > Scribers are used to transfer the shape of one log to another. This tool > is > indispensable when building a scribe-fit (chinkless) home. The double > bubble > or bulls-eye level attached to the scriber allows you to accurately > transfer > the irregularities of the lower log go the one above with a scriber > pencil. > By cutting your scribed lines you can ensure that the logs will fit > together > tightly. Also used by boat builders and trim carpenters to transfer > unusual > shapes to the board they're working with. > > > Example of a peavey > > A peavey is used to roll and position logs. It allows you to grasp logs of > a > wide range of diameters and move them. Trying to maneuver logs without > such > a tool can be extremely strenuous. > > The many ways to peel a log > Transforming a pile of raw logs covered with bark into material that is > ready to scribe, cut, and stack can be approached several ways. Your > choice > will be based on how much time you have, how you want the end result to > look, and when the wood was cut. > > > > Example of a peeling spud > > The most common method is to use a peeling spud and drawknife combination. > A > peeling spud is a tool that removes the bulk of the bark by prying it off. > This works best on non-winter cut wood. In log building, a peeling spud is > used to knock off the majority of a log's bark. Although many professional > log peelers use only a drawknife and a chainsaw and/or grinder for knots, > using this tool before you begin to use the drawknife will save you time > and > energy in the long run and save sharpening time on your drawknife. > > > > Example of a drawknife > > A drawknife is then used to finish the job before the log is ready to cut. > Drawknives come in a wide range of sizes. Several different handle angles > are also available because, to date, no one handle-to-blade angle has been > satisfactory for all people. Overall weight of the drawknife can be a > consideration for many people. Professional log peelers, (yes, there is > such > a profession and more physically fit group of folks would be hard to > find), > lean toward heavier drawknives. Some prefer the Montana Pro, (shown on > right), which has a planer blade for the cutting edge and holds a sharp > edge > longer than other knives; while others prefer the hand forged Barr > drawknife > which is easier to sharpen and has a large following of devotees. Yet > others > lean toward a curved blade with the handles almost in-line with the blade, > such as the Gransfors Bruks. > > We carry very small carver?s drawknives with a 4? blade; 3 mid-weight drop > forged drawknives for small poles, furniture or railing stock and smaller > house logs; and 3 heavy weight sizes for peeling house logs. You'll find > pictures and description for our many drawknives HERE. > > By using a chainsaw and/or grinder to smooth the knots before you begin > peeling, you can go over those areas with your drawknife for a more > consistent look and you'll minimize the chance of "nicking" your blade on > the hard knot wood or a piece of gravel or grit that often gets imbedded > around the knot. > > If you experience tearing or jagged edges while peeling, try peeling in > the > other direction. Often you have to peel toward knots. Additionally, keep > your blade sharp. Many people want to leave some of the inner bark on for > a > more ?rustic? look. (This is often what is meant by "skip peeled"). Before > you do, consider that the bark can harbor insects which can start chewing > into your logs; bark can also act like a sponge, holding moisture in > contact > with your logs; and it can eventually curl up and fall off, taking with it > any stain/finish you?ve applied and leaving your logs unprotected in those > areas. You?ll probably be fine in a dry, non-buggy area but think twice > about leaving bark on in a moist/humid area where wood boring insects > abound. > > If you prefer the look of Appalachian style square hand hewn log homes, > try > using an adze or broadaxe. > > Adzes are available with both flat and curved blades as well as short and > log handles. Short handled adzes are used with either one or two hands > with > the wood you're working on located between knee and waist height. Long > handles are often used when "straddling" your work on the ground, or close > to the ground. In effect, you swing the adze between your legs. Some > builders consider an adze the finishing tool to the broad axe. Others use > it > on it's own. > > Broad axes are similar in look to an axe with an extra wide blade. Handles > are most often of mid to full length and grasped with both hands. You > generally work standing to one side of the log with the flat side of the > broad axe to the wood. The log or beam can either be on the ground, or > raised depending on how you're gripping the handle. (A full over the head > swing or more of a short chopping motion). Broad axe handles can be left, > right or on center. Blades can also have a variety of profiles. > > We carry hand-forged broadaxes from Sweden that can be either beveled on > the > left or right and that come with a straight or angled handle. This truly > authentic method will give you a new appreciation of the log homes of > yesteryear. > > A mechanical method to remove bark employs the Log Wizard. This tool bolts > to the end of your chainsaw bar and is powered by your saw chain. The two > blades rotate on a drum and make quick work of peeling. The end result is > similar to a drawknife effect. This tool can also rough shape logs (rough > notch, sharpen the ends for fence posts, etc.). For added safety we > suggest > using cutterless chain and a fairly short bar on your saw for added > control. > > Water peeling is possible for wood that was cut in the spring and leaves > your logs beautifully smooth. In this method you are removing the bark and > a > layer of wood down to the next in-tact winter growth ring using a pressure > washing unit. The winter "ring" is incredibly hard compared to the growth > area between the rings and some high-end builders prefer this method for > that result. Conversely, it's more difficult to get a penetrating finish > to > "take" properly. The water pressure should be 500-1000 psi if you are > using > a regular nozzle and 2000-4000 + psi if you are using a RotoMax nozzle > that > sends out a rotating circular spray of water instead of a concentrated > blast. This is easier on the wood and is faster by far compared to using > low > pressure and a standard nozzle. > > Pressure washing is more difficult to use if the logs have been heavily > damaged by the logger because several layers of growth rings may have been > damaged and it's difficult to get one smooth layer as you keep "blasting" > into a deeper layer where ever there is damage to the log. If you peel > your > logs this way keep in mind that any damages incurred in the building > process > will be very hard to hide. > > source: > > http://www.aloghomestore.com/nl-toolsotrade.html > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ------------------------------------ > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > >
