Hi Lee

It is a 6 cylinder car made in Australia since the early 50 

My Son has a newer   model of this car and he was having trouble with noises
in the rear of his car since he changed the coil springs to lower the car

So I took off the shockers and told him to go around the block to see if the
noise had gone.

It had gone what I found was the holes in the bottom of the shockers had
become egg shaped and while driving were moving around on the bottom bolt
making noises, the shockers were not leaking oil.

The bolts were so tight I had to put a piece of pipe on an extension handle
to undo one of them.  

When I put on the Gas filled shockers there was no noises there any more.

Regards

Ray

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
Sent: Monday, 7 July 2008 8:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Changing Shock Absorbers

 


Ray, what is a Holden V6"? is that like a Chevy blazer? thanks.Lee

On 
Mon, Jul 07, 2008 at 08:17:02AM +1000, Ray Boyce wrote:
> I have just changed a pair of rear shock absorbers in a Holden V6 and we
> decided to used Munro Nitrogen Twin Cylinder Filled Gas Shockers.
> 
> After removing the old oil filled ones grease the bottom bolts so if you
> have to remove them in the future the bolts come undone easier.
> 
> To install the new ones first put on the bottom washer and rubber on the
top
> of the shockers.
> 
> The rubber goes with the lip facing up and the dome facing the washer.
> 
> These come with a wire compression on them so they are in a closed
position
> this wire has to be removed.
> 
> Now lay alongside the wheel and position the shocker with one hand over
the
> top of the wheel grab the weight of the shocker while screwing in the
> bottomed bolt.
> 
> Now compress the shocker so you can pull off the wire and the shocker will
> expand, aim it for the hole it has to go through, this is why you have to
> put on the bottom washer and rubber first.
> 
> Now lean inside the boot and put on the top washer rubber and nut hold the
> shaft so it does not turn while tightening and do it up, you might have to
> use a shifter to hold it , the shaft has two flats on the top of the shaft
> for this purpose.
> 
> Now you can tighten the bottom bolt.
> 
> Do the same on the other side making sure all rubbers are put on the
correct
> way so the lip face each other, and the domes face the washers.
> 
> I always keep the nuts washers and rubbers you never know when these might
> be required for some project in the future.
> 
> Job Done .
> 
> Ray 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 

-- 
Allen's Axiom:
When all else fails, read the instructions.
Come and chat with me at #quietzone on irc.newnet.net

 



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