I have a Freud fixed base router and table.  It is a bother taking it 
from the table but that is what I do.

earlier, Dale Leavens, wrote:

>Hello Scott!
>
>I am now down to three routers but over the years have had five and 
>doubtless will collect at least one and maybe two more. There are a 
>few things which make some better than others and the features 
>continue to improve. They include:
>
>Quarter or half inch chuck
>Wrenchless bit change
>Plunge or fixed base
>Through the table depth adjustment
>variable speed
>Horse power
>
>There are now even cordless routers and some known as trim routers 
>and doubtless some things I have forgotten to mention.
>
>I have a bruit made in Australia by Triton, 3.5 horse power plunge 
>router. It came on sale for something like $325, a couple of years 
>ago. It is a fine variable speed plunge router best suited to a 
>router table because of it's weight and bulk, it works well for very 
>heavy cutting but is a little difficult to handle free-hand and I 
>find the switch awkward, intended to be safe it is complicated. In a 
>table this doesn't matter particularly as I have a switch wired to 
>it. It does have a single wrench bit change which locks the spindle 
>when you raise it fully through the table for example however to do 
>this you have to work it from underneath and it is heavy. Shortly 
>after I bought it a couple of models came out with a 
>"Through-the-table" feature whereby you insert a long key from the 
>base surface into the machine and can raise or lower the router with 
>it. Very nice for bit changes and for bit height adjustment in a 
>table mounted router.
>
>Variable speed is helpful particularly when routing with very large 
>bits as in panel raising bits which should only be used in a table 
>or in cutting some very hard woods which are prone to burning but 
>mostly it is unnecessary with a little care.
>
>Smaller routers are much more satisfactory for hand held use but too 
>small and light will limit usefulness. A nice small trim router 
>which I do not yet possess is very good for chamfering or rounding 
>over edges, cleanly forming the edges of laminate coverings like 
>Arborite or cutting a decorative edge on a table top. They are light 
>weight, easy to handle and with a smaller base they ride well over a 
>surface while following a bearing. They are really nice for plowing 
>out shallow mortises for things like hinges. A trim router will 
>probably be my next router acquisition.
>
>Porter Cable makes a pretty nice router which includes both a fixed 
>and plunge base. If memory serves it is a 2.5 HP, a good compromise 
>of power and size and should be a very good multi-purpose router. My 
>only complaint is that it is a two wrench bit change and if anything 
>like my Porter Cable, it is a bit inconvenient for bit changing. It 
>does however accommodate the most common types of template collars 
>which the Triton certainly does not.
>
>Many routers these days will accept a quarter inch collet allowing 
>for both half and quarter inch shank bits and this is a feature well 
>worth while.
>
>I have a Sears router which I bought as part of a router and table 
>combination. The depth adjustment is poor, difficult to use and hard 
>to get a truly accurate depth setting. The table is cast alluminium 
>and not bad but the wings are pressed steel and both have warped 
>with use. Finally, the collet doesn't hold bits very well, I have 
>ruined a few pieces as a quarter inch straight cutting bit was drawn 
>up out of the collet. This is unimaginably dangerous particularly if 
>cutting a narrow dado or groove partial depth and the damn bit 
>begins protruding up through the work.
>
>So far I am not impressed much with commercially available router 
>tables. Doubtless there are some really good ones but they must cost 
>loads, Lee Valley for example has one or two but they cost several 
>hundreds. A router table certainly adds wonderful value to a router 
>but I warn you, you will certainly want two routers as moving one in 
>and out of the table soon becomes bothersome and you will want 
>hand-held for many operations.
>
>Hope this gives you a few ideas from someone with a little experience..
>
>----- Origin Message -----
>From: Scott Howell
>To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:50 PM
>Subject: [BlindHandyMan] routers and the use there of
>
>Folks, to change the subject and make this thread a topic on to
>itself, I have a question on routers. I'm not planning to run out and
>get one right away, but at some point I'd like to consider it for a
>couple of projects. What is a reasonably good router that would get
>some use, not heavy use, but then not something that is so inexpensive
>that I regret purchasing it either. Would it make sense to look for a
>table and router combo set or do they even have such creatures?
>Any particular things I should consider and how about some howtos on
>using a router, especially from a blind person's perspective.
>Maybe I don't necessarily even need a router. Here are the things I'd
>like to do.
>
>I'd like to make some tables for our living room. I'd like to make
>them somewhat fancy, it's my wife's formal living room. Now mind you
>it's got the "Country" look and we're not some "up scale" snob types
>or something cause I'd probably go buy the darn table instead of
>making it.
>The point is I would like to try my hand at doing some basic furniture
>and some other small projects. I imagine a router would make some of
>these projects a little more interesting for one thing and might help
>do some other things. Maybe I might even consider refurbishing my
>kitchen cabinets. Ok, so I'm getting way ahead of my skills, but one
>can dream I think. grin
>
>Scott Howell
><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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John


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