Thanks, no, the angle I wanted to cut would probably be a couple of  
feet long. It would be nice to have the table saw make that cut, but  
it may not even be necessary. I have two other options and one is to  
make the corner piece separately which wouldn't be a problem and the  
easier option. The other option is to simply take the top which will  
have the rounded front edge and just cut off a section so it'll mate  
up with the end of the other top, thus giving me the L shape. I just  
happen to see that they cut the 90 degree on both ends that form the L  
in our kitchen. I suspect this was done for looks more so than for any  
other reason. Well no, now that I think about it, I see why they did  
it and a circular saw would work as well as a table saw if you raised  
the blade enough and could run the piece through the proper way. I  
digress, but they did this to get the back splash edges to mate up.  
Ok, so that still means I have options. Of course I'm not sure exactly  
what type of top I'll end up with until I go to Home Depot and see  
what they have. I selected the counter top mainly cause it's a good  
surface to work on already, but then if I find something equally good  
for less money, I just might change my mind. The counter tops are  
usually a good option since they are already the proper size I need.

tnx
On Jul 19, 2008, at 5:14 AM, John Schwery wrote:

> Scott, how big is this piece you want to cut? If there is room, I
> would put it against the fence and push it through. If I remember
> right, you have a miter saw. Is that an option?
>
> earlier, Scott Howell, wrote:
>
> >Hey folks, I am finally relocating in the house to gain additional
> >space. I've got a plan for a desk/work surface, but I was trying to
> >figure out how I could make a good solid drawer. I guess I could
> >figure some of this out like making a groove in the sides to fit the
> >bottom into and if I did this, what router bit would be best suited
> >for making that type of groove and I imagine I'd have to find one  
> that
> >is the same thickness as the board I want to fit all the sides on  
> too.
> >Now as far as getting all the sides connected. I guess I could just
> >run some screws into the ends and that would work, but is there a
> >better way or a way that might not necessarily be better, but might
> >make for a stronger drawer? I did a little reading on dovetail  
> joints,
> >but I suspect this is way out of my skill level at this point. I
> >believe those joints are like fingers that interlock at a 90 degree
> >angle and are I imagine either glued or just pressure fitted. In any
> >event, any thoughts appreciated.
> >If anyone is interested, I'm going to take two counter tops and use a
> >piece of melamine (however that's spelled) and use that to make the
> >corner piece of the l which will keep me from having to rip the edge
> >of the counter top partially off or trying to rip a 90 degree angle  
> on
> >both halves. That is how it looks like they did the counter tops in
> >our kitchen. They cut the two tops at a 90 degree angle and slapped
> >them together. Nothing wrong with this but gee I got this nice scrap
> >lying here, might as well try to put it to good use. Well actually
> >this does bring up one other question. If I wanted to cut the top  
> at a
> >90 degree angle, how would I use the miter cross cut tool on my table
> >saw? I know that might seem like a silly question, but I haven't used
> >the gage yet so not sure exactly how I would use that while pushing
> >the wood through.
> >
> >tnx
> >
> >Scott Howell
> ><mailto:s.howell%40verizon.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> >Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.2/1561 - Release Date:
> >7/18/2008 6:35 PM
>
> John
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 

Scott Howell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]





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