You can cut shapes like that but you do have to be a little careful marking 
with the knife and controlling the bend as you snap the laminate but I have 
done it many times.

with a fresh blade in the utility knife you can usually cut right through for a 
small distance but just most way is usually easily enough.

I usually end up standing on the straight edge with a rubber sole shoe and 
bending over to do the scoring.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Scott Howell 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 12:45 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using table saw cut laminate, sharp cutting tool


  Yes, it does work. I found that lucky me the straight edge I was using 
  was only a little wider than the piece I am attaching the stuff too. 
  So, I just taped it on, scored as best I could, and started snapping. 
  So far it's a bit better than it was and now to set about filing the 
  bugger and see how that goes. If this works, I'll do the next piece. I 
  probably am making this more difficult for myself, but I was trying to 
  cut one continuous piece which looks like a letter L with a very very 
  short bottom piece. Well that actually makes up the backsplash.

  On Aug 19, 2008, at 7:24 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:

  > But why!!
  >
  > Scratch & snap is so quick and easy!
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: Lenny McHugh
  > To: [email protected]
  > Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 6:49 AM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using table saw cut laminate, sharp 
  > cutting tool
  >
  > Dale, Like you I have had the problem where thin plastic laminate went
  > under the rip fence. To solve this I used a piece of vinyl J- 
  > channel. I just
  > then had to add about 1/16" to the cut width.
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: <[email protected]>
  > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:59 PM
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
  >
  > Trouble with using something like a table saw even with a find tooth 
  > blade
  > is that it will chip pretty badly and the edge wants to crawl under 
  > the rip
  > fence ultimately binding or running off straight. If you can hold it 
  > down
  > tightly to the table surface and run the blade backward that helps 
  > but a
  > nice scratch and snap is really so much easier! Depending on the 
  > grade a
  > sharp knife will go most way through anyway.
  >
  > Trimming with a file is the recommended method by the manufacture or 
  > it was
  > before routers became so available, back in the day when we weren't so
  > affluent. I bought my first router at an auction for fifty bucks 
  > because I
  > figured I wanted to try one but was afraid to pay full price and 
  > wind up
  > with an expensive tool I couldn't safely use. At that it was half a 
  > days pay
  > for me back in 1980. I have had five more since and there is at 
  > least one
  > more I would like to have.
  >
  > To trim with a file you apply your file at a slight angle off of the
  > adjoining surface running the teeth toward the adjoining surface. For
  > example, trimming the vertical edge piece to the top surface of a 
  > table you
  > point the direction of the file in the direction of the flat surface
  > grinding the top edge of the vertical edge but run the file at about 
  > 15
  > degrees off of horizontal.
  >
  > As I get close I then run the file sideways the length of the edge but
  > sustain the angle so the file won't spoil the finish on the flat 
  > surface.
  > Even after finishing with a router I usually like to make a few 
  > passes with
  > a file to put a touch of a bevel and make the edge near perfect.
  >
  > ----- Original Message -----
  > From: Tom Vos
  > To: [email protected]
  > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:11 PM
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
  >
  > I have run plastic laminate through my table saw. I put a fine tooth
  > plywood blade in it, then go slowly through.
  > I agree, that it should be cut a little over size and trimmed with the
  > router bit. I've never tried the file, but that might work well too.
  > Blessings,
  > Tom
  >
  > -----Original Message-----
  > From: [email protected]
  > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Howell
  > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:57 AM
  > To: [email protected]
  > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
  >
  > THankws, I figured that a saw would likely make more a mess and that
  > is also why I avoided using it. I wasn't so sure about snapping it as
  > I wasn't totally sure it would snap the way I intended. The stuff
  > wasn't horribly expensive, but I don't want to wast a lot of material
  > either. Maybe I'll glue this piece I have on and file it down to the
  > right size and yeah, I thought of the router, but of course I don't
  > have a bit for that so the slow road it is for the minute.
  > Thanks again.
  >
  > On Aug 18, 2008, at 7:30 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:
  >
  > > You score the Formica along a straight line usually then just bend
  > > it up to snap it off. The edge is very sharp usually. You should cut
  > > it a little large then when stuck down you trim it down to precise
  > > size. These days people usually use an edge trimming bit on a router
  > > but a file sliding along the edge on a slight angle works equally
  > > well if slower and I find I often finish with a file anyway.
  > >
  > > There is a special hooked knife with a carbide tip which drags along
  > > very nicely and scores the material however the tip of a sharp
  > > utility knife works well enough too.
  > >
  > > Sawing tends to chip and even crack the Formica or Arborite unless
  > > it is well stuck down already and generally works better cutting
  > > from the opposite side.
  > >
  > > Hope this helps.
  > >
  > > ----- Original Message -----
  > > From: Scott Howell
  > > To: [email protected]
  > > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:34 AM
  > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
  > >
  > > Folks, I know this will sound a little crazy, but I'm trying to 
  > cut a
  > > piece of material with a utility knife and it just doesn't seem to 
  > be
  > > doing the job. Now this is a new blade, but let me explain what I'm
  > > cutting and how I'm cutting it and maybe the how and what are the
  > > problem.
  > >
  > > I purchased a sheet of material I believe it's formica, the same 
  > stuff
  > > most counter tops are made from. I need to cut this to fit the end 
  > of
  > > the counter top I am using as a desk. The guy at the store said a
  > > utility knife should do the trick. I've made a few passes and then
  > > tried digging in to cut through, but seems the knife first of all
  > > wants to skid around on the surface and just scratch the material. I
  > > then tried a really sharp pair of scissors which did help, but 
  > weren't
  > > really sharp enough. Now I realize I could get my Dremmel or even
  > > possibly my jig saw out, but I really was looking for a manual non-
  > > powered tool for such a simple task. So, the question is, do they 
  > make
  > > scissors that could be used for cutting material like this or is a
  > > utility knife my best option?
  > >
  > > tnx
  > >
  > > Scott Howell
  > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > >
  > > ----------------------------------------------------------
  > >
  > > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > > Checked by AVG.
  > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1616 - Release Date:
  > > 8/16/2008 5:12 PM
  > >
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  > >
  >
  > Scott Howell
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > ----------------------------------------------------------
  >
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG.
  > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1616 - Release Date: 
  > 8/16/2008
  > 5:12 PM
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  > ------------------------------------
  >
  > Send any questions regarding list management to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > 
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29
  > Or
  > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  >
  > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  >
  > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From 
  > Various
  > List Members At The Following address:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  >
  > Visit the archives page at the following address
  > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/
  >
  > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the 
  > following
  > address for more information:
  > http://www.jaws-users.com/
  > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy 
  > Man list
  > just send a blank message to:
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links
  >
  > __________ NOD32 3367 (20080819) Information __________
  >
  > This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  > http://www.eset.com
  >
  > ----------------------------------------------------------
  >
  > No virus found in this incoming message.
  > Checked by AVG.
  > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.4/1616 - Release Date: 
  > 8/16/2008 5:12 PM
  >
  > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  >
  >
  > 

  Scott Howell
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG. 
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.5/1620 - Release Date: 8/19/2008 
6:04 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Reply via email to