At the bottom is a little blurb I copied off the Woodcraft site about choosing
a saw blade. Nothing earth shattering as far as new information goes but they
have put it together in a concise few lines. And through Christmas they are
offering free shipping on all orders. These are some of my favorite people to
deal with, especially remembering the thread on dealing with people.
I did a quick search for 8 inch blades and the closest I came up with was 8 and
a quarter inches for Tenryu. Amazon always seems to come up near the top of
search engines and here was their find. There may be more than one but this
will get you in the neighborhood...
Tenryu PRF-21048BWK Steel-Pro Stabilizer 8-1/4" 48 Teeth; 5/8" KO Bore; MTCG
Grind; Carbide Tipped Saw Blade by Tenryu
Buy new: $80.00 $60.00
This is from the woodcraft site:
Freud 8" X 22" X 5/8" ATB Red Perma Shield Saw
Blade
Price: $32.99
One type of circular-saw blade is the
carbide-tipped blade, which has a reasonable price and is much more durable
than a high-speed steel blade. Purchase your blade from a reputable dealer.
Select only brand-name products.
One basic rule that should govern your blade
selection is that the more teeth, the finer the cut. The number of teeth is
proportionate to the size of the blade. For example, an 8" blade with 35 teeth
will give about the same cut as a 10" blade with 50 teeth. Some blades, such as
planer blades, tend to wobble slightly, and this will affect the cut.
Therefore, a set of stabilizers is recommended. These stabilizers are like
large washers that are slightly concave and fit on both sides of the blade to
stabilize it.
There are also blades, generally 10" or 12" in
diameter, that have a very shallow cutting tolerance. These blades are very
thin for the first 1-1/2" or so. And then become thicker up the arbor hole.
These blades are meant for cutting plastic laminates, etc.
There is a group of specialty blades that are
designed to be used in particular woodworking situations. Included in this
group are blades with 200 teeth that are used for plywood and give an extremely
smooth cut. Unless you are in the woodworking business and set up for
production, they probably won't concern you.
Following are some types of blades that are
recommended for use in the workshop. A combination blade is a general-purpose
blade that will give fairly clean crosscuts and rip cuts. A crosscut blade, as
its name implies, is the blade best suited for crosscutting. It generally has
more teeth to provide a smooth cross-grain cut. A planing blade gives an
extremely smooth crosscut, but is very thin and should not be used for ripping
or very thick material. A rip blade generally has fewer teeth than other types
of blade because it faces less resistance as it is used to cut with the grain
of the wood.
----- Original Message -----
From: Alan & Terrie Robbins
To: [email protected]
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 6:28 AM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade
Bob,
What would the approximate cost of an 8 inch blade be for each of the below
type blades referenced? I'm saying 8 rather than 7 and a quarter inch since
an 8 inch is what my table saw takes.
Al
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 9:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade
If you ever put the money out for one of those tenryu blades you'll be
spoiled. It is Japanese and if the Japanese excel at anything they sure know
how to make things sharp. Of course the Freud glue line blades are also
excellent blades and they leave smooth cuts too.
----- Original Message -----
From: Lenny McHugh
To: handyman-blind
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:25 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Final Cut Blade
I just received this from Larry Martin about the final cut blade. One of
the
comments reassures my thoughts about burning the wood. I will be removing
it
from my Christmas wish list.
Lenny
Here's a thoughtful response from the Fine Woodworking Ask An Expert
forum:
I haven't used the blade so I can't offer an opinion, but a good blade on
a
properly set up saw will produce a very clean cut so I doubt that the
sanding would make it any better.
I also doubt that the paper would hold up for long, so the time and
expense
of replacing the paper would be an ongoing cost and annoyance. I also
suspect that you wouldn't want to leave the blade on the saw for less
precise cuts, so you would have the added hassle of installing and
removing
the blade repeatedly during a project.
And Lenny, here are a couple of other responses:
1) I have been a trim carpenter for many years. This looks bogus to me.
Think about it... if the sandpaper is proud of the saw teeth, it would
burn.
If not, it depends on the "wobble" of the blade, not good. Just pay the
bucks and get a good blade. My Tenryu 12" 100 tooth blade makes cuts that
are SMOOTHER than if you had sanded them. You have to spend the money but
it
will last for years. Of course your saw has to be good too. Good luck!
2) I just looked at the advertisement again for good measure and...total
BS, don't bother only for knuckleheads.
--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Larry, may I share your observation with the BHM list?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2008 11:01 PM
> Subject: Final Cut Blade
>
>
> Lenny -- I had not heard of the Final Cut blade before but I was
favorably
> impressed.
>
> MLCS is a respected mail order woodworking operation and they speak
> glowingly about the Final Cut Blade. I watched the video and watched
them
> make numerous cuts and none of them showed any signs of burning. The
video
> shows cuts being made in plywood, melamine and crown molding stock. All
of
> the scenes showed finish carpentry work. No comments were made about
> furniture making and the finer tolerances required for furniture making.
> The
> video did comment that the finished surface of a cut removed all milling
> marks even better than a jointer would do. The miter joints shown for
> frames
> and crown molding seemed very tight.
>
> If you get this blade or the sandpaper disks to apply to a tablesaw
blade
> please let me know the results. I will make a search in the tool review
> area
> of finewoodworking.com to see if anyone has reported anything on the
> item.
>
> --
> Larry Martin
> Woodworking for the Blind
> --joining the world of blind wood workers
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Larry, did you get this email? Wouldn't this blade tend to burn the
> > wood?
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: MLCS Woodworking
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 12:17 PM
> > Subject: Sand & Saw SIMULTANEOUSLY...And SAVE!
> >
> >
> > You are receiving this e-mail because of your relationship with MLCS
> > LTD.
> >
> > You may unsubscribe if you no longer wish to receive our emails.
> >
> >
> >
> > SAW & SAND & SAVE!
> >
> > Unique Time-Saver Exclusive Intro Offer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > SAW & SAND and Save!
> > With the FINAL CUT Blade...
> > BRAND NEW, UNIQUE, MLCS EXCLUSIVE INTRO OFFER!
> >
> >
> > Why didn't WE think of that?
> >
> >
> > This exclusive new PATENTED product is getting rave
> > reviews. A
> > simple idea, but an incredible time-saver.
> >
> > The Saw Blade has sandpaper BUILT-IN so you sand
> > things
> > to a
> > smooth finish WHILE YOU SAW! Makes joints so smooth they're virtually
> > invisible!
> >
> > MLCS is the first to offer this unique new item that's
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