Hi Larry: I use the incra miter 3000 on my table saw. They are very easy to set up. The way I make sure any of my jigs or saws are cutting square is to cut a board in half. Put one piece on top of the other as if you were closing a book with the book spine being the fresh cut. Make sure the two pieces are lined up with each other. Examine the difference between the 2 pieces from front to back. This will tell you how far off your equipment is. The error is doubled. SO, this, in my opinion is the most accurate way for a blind person to make adjustments. Of course, you had better start with a straight board. :)
I'd say the tablesaw and incra would not do well for cutting metal. I'd think moving the saw to the work rather than moving the work to the saw would be much more accurate. In your case, I would make some shims that would give me the proper angles on your chopsaw. Besides, I don't think the tablesaw tops are meant to have metal dragged across them. I scratched my tablesaw top because of a small rock imbedded in a piece of populer. The rock was about the size of a piece of rock salt. Terry On Thu, 25 Dec 2008 06:55:09 -0700you write: > >Terry, > >Nicely said. >I am a hot-rodder and do some metal fabrication and what you >were saying about using a miter gage on a table saw makes >some sense for laying out longer peaces of both square and >round tubing. I should think that using a carbarendum blade >or other specialty metal cutting blade one could achieve the >same results in metal as in wood. >Currently I use a chop saw for longer and larger stock but >maybe a converted table saw might yield a better result. >What kind of a miter gage do you use and how did you >calibrate it for yourself? When installing hard points for >drive component mounts support cross members and suspension >hangers cutting and fitting the correct angles are >absolutely critical.
