Spiro, Below is some contact information for the company, and a couple of links for information, including info about masonry. I sent this to myself first, and the links worked. HTH
Product Name: KILZ® Masonry Waterproofing Paint - Gray MSDS Manufacturer Number: 239141 Manufacturer Name: Masterchem Industries LLC Address: 3135 Old Highway M Imperial, MO 63052-2834 General Phone Number: (636) 942-2510 General Fax Number: (636) 942-3663 Customer Service Phone Number: (800) 325-3552 CHEMTREC: For emergencies in the US, call CHEMTREC: 800-424-9300 Canutec: In Canada, call CANUTEC: (613) 996-6666 (call collect) MSDS Creation Date: 11/15/2006 MSDS Revision Date: 09/08/2008 <http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>KILZ<http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>® Masonry Waterproofing Paint - # 390 http://www.actiocms.com/VIEW_MSDS/ZZZ_msdsdisplaycode_author_new_ANSI.cfm?edit_msds_id=5347&dbname =AUTHORING2&language=1&CFID=616450&CFTOKEN=1f113ebbb3a5983e-4A03F6DC-B1B8-7DD3-217DCAB1E56D944B At 06:57 PM 2/5/2009, you wrote: >can anyone get a look at it to see if it will kill mold on cement? >I'm not yet hitting this with a wire brush, but the spray bottle isn't >making the spot any smaller. >So I have these two options left. >I hope the Kilz2 works on cement. So anything not ripped by the wire brush >won't have a chance. > >On Tue, 3 Feb 2009, Bob Kennedy wrote: > > > Kilz2 will cover mold on wood. Don't know if > it will work on cement or not. Never had the > label read to me beyond the wood part. > > > > The best way to kill mold is just mix good > old Clorox and water at a strong rate. Since it > was pretty bad I'd use something like 3 cups > water to a cup of Clorox. This will burn your > nose so be careful. If mold is thick on the > walls, get a scrub brush for carpet or tile and > between sprays work on the mold with the brush. Then spray again. > > > > Don't worry, you'll never spray too heavily with mold. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Spiro > > To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 2:38 AM > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] now what is the last word on mold? > > > > > > I've written about the basement water. > > It was ground water. No supply pipe there at all. > > We dug with a back hoe down to 8ft, and found more and more big rocks > > which were glued together with mud. Dirt sat atop them and sifted down > > between them in the 50 years since the place was built. > > So we sealed, and tar'd the wall and started filling with gravel. A cement > > deck was poured, and at about 6ft, a sump basin and well was set. A french > > drain was placed to let water run into the basin and more stone was poured > > around that. dirt was poured in from about 3 ft deep and the pumps outlet > > is running donwhill to a storm gutter 20 ft away. > > Seems rain and ground water were meeting where the old french drain could > > no longer allow freedom. > > So, after about a year of this, I've removed the wet wood, and have > > exposed 6,4 by 3ft of cement wall behind the knotty pine pannels. > > I have gray to black marks on the cement from about 1ft high down to about > > 4 inches high for about 3 ft of wall. > > I've sprayed it with the spray the plumber left me. I don't know if it's > > invalid mold now; but I've since sprayed it with glass and tile cleaner in > > a 1 to 1 concentrate from a 5 to 1 bottle. > > Did I hear somewhere that the magic primer *Kilz* will put a complete end > > to mold? > > If not, what will, and trust me, I need do it before I place anything in > > that hole. I'll wait till summer if I must. > > So what is the final answer in ultimately finishing this mold? > > Thanks > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
