not the first time for that Betsy, contributing I mean. The pages don't get me cranky if I'm in a quiet environment, but if I'm at work or in a hurry, whew! major cranky. I've been doing much research on the digital TV thing here. gone as far as amplified antenna comparisons via DB levels, and even signal booster boxes. Too much for the busy workplace environment. I think I nearly killed someone that day.
On Fri, 6 Feb 2009, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote: > Aloha Spiro, > I was actually amazed that I was able to fine all of that information > in about 1 and a half minutes. Usually, those websites make me > cranky. Glad to have contributed helpful information to you and this > great list. > At 04:55 PM 2/6/2009, you wrote: > >> thank you so very much Betsy. >> I learned very much about the product. Much more than I thought I would, >> but all really rather interesting. >> I didn't find the exact info I desired, but have by your kind efforts the >> contact info for the company whereby I can get step by step directions to >> obtain, if possible, the result necessary. >> Again, thank you. >> >> On Thu, 5 Feb 2009, Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press wrote: >> >>> >>> Spiro, >>> Below is some contact information for the >>> company, and a couple of links for information, including info >> about masonry. >>> I sent this to myself first, and the links worked. HTH >>> >>> >>> Product Name: KILZ? Masonry Waterproofing Paint - Gray >>> MSDS Manufacturer Number: 239141 >>> Manufacturer Name: Masterchem Industries LLC >>> Address: 3135 Old Highway M >>> Imperial, MO 63052-2834 >>> General Phone Number: (636) 942-2510 >>> General Fax Number: (636) 942-3663 >>> Customer Service Phone Number: (800) 325-3552 >>> CHEMTREC: For emergencies in the US, call CHEMTREC: 800-424-9300 >>> Canutec: In Canada, call CANUTEC: (613) 996-6666 (call collect) >>> MSDS Creation Date: 11/15/2006 >>> MSDS Revision Date: 09/08/2008 >>> >>> >> <<http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>KILZ<<http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>http://www.actiocms.com/msds_customers_external.cfm?aa=383&ac=JDSF7685&ad=pjuoiklt&ab=390>? >>> Masonry Waterproofing Paint - # 390 >>> >>> >> <http://www.actiocms.com/VIEW_MSDS/ZZZ_msdsdisplaycode_author_new_ANSI.cfm?edit_msds_id=5347&dbname>http://www.actiocms.com/VIEW_MSDS/ZZZ_msdsdisplaycode_author_new_ANSI.cfm?edit_msds_id=5347&dbname >>> >> =AUTHORING2&language=1&CFID=616450&CFTOKEN=1f113ebbb3a5983e-4A03F6DC-B1B8-7DD3-217DCAB1E56D944B >>> >>> At 06:57 PM 2/5/2009, you wrote: >>> >>>> can anyone get a look at it to see if it will kill mold on cement? >>>> I'm not yet hitting this with a wire brush, but the spray bottle isn't >>>> making the spot any smaller. >>>> So I have these two options left. >>>> I hope the Kilz2 works on cement. So anything not ripped by the wire brush >>>> won't have a chance. >>>> >>>> On Tue, 3 Feb 2009, Bob Kennedy wrote: >>>> >>>>> Kilz2 will cover mold on wood. Don't know if >>>> it will work on cement or not. Never had the >>>> label read to me beyond the wood part. >>>>> >>>>> The best way to kill mold is just mix good >>>> old Clorox and water at a strong rate. Since it >>>> was pretty bad I'd use something like 3 cups >>>> water to a cup of Clorox. This will burn your >>>> nose so be careful. If mold is thick on the >>>> walls, get a scrub brush for carpet or tile and >>>> between sprays work on the mold with the brush. Then spray again. >>>>> >>>>> Don't worry, you'll never spray too heavily with mold. >>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>>> From: Spiro >>>>> To: >> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >>>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 2:38 AM >>>>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] now what is the last word on mold? >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> I've written about the basement water. >>>>> It was ground water. No supply pipe there at all. >>>>> We dug with a back hoe down to 8ft, and found more and more big rocks >>>>> which were glued together with mud. Dirt sat atop them and sifted down >>>>> between them in the 50 years since the place was built. >>>>> So we sealed, and tar'd the wall and started filling with >> gravel. A cement >>>>> deck was poured, and at about 6ft, a sump basin and well was >> set. A french >>>>> drain was placed to let water run into the basin and more stone >> was poured >>>>> around that. dirt was poured in from about 3 ft deep and the pumps outlet >>>>> is running donwhill to a storm gutter 20 ft away. >>>>> Seems rain and ground water were meeting where the old french drain could >>>>> no longer allow freedom. >>>>> So, after about a year of this, I've removed the wet wood, and have >>>>> exposed 6,4 by 3ft of cement wall behind the knotty pine pannels. >>>>> I have gray to black marks on the cement from about 1ft high >> down to about >>>>> 4 inches high for about 3 ft of wall. >>>>> I've sprayed it with the spray the plumber left me. I don't know if it's >>>>> invalid mold now; but I've since sprayed it with glass and tile >> cleaner in >>>>> a 1 to 1 concentrate from a 5 to 1 bottle. >>>>> Did I hear somewhere that the magic primer *Kilz* will put a complete end >>>>> to mold? >>>>> If not, what will, and trust me, I need do it before I place anything in >>>>> that hole. I'll wait till summer if I must. >>>>> So what is the final answer in ultimately finishing this mold? >>>>> Thanks >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >>> >>> >> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >
