The man gets around, I'll say that for him.
David Ferrin
Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jennifer Jackson" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Solving Common Household Drain, Problems


What, Ray have you been in my house?  How did you know I needed this?*smile*


Jennifer

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Ray Boyce
  To: [email protected]
  Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 1:57 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Solving Common Household Drain, Problems


  Everybody knows that plumbing can be a messy, smelly and altogether nasty
  job. Nobody wants to do it except plumbers, who make good money doing the
  work nobody else wants to undertake. The best way to handle a plumbing
  problem is to avoid it completely, but once the pipes are clogged you can
  usually solve the problem by following the guidelines detailed here.

  Go with the Flow

  Let's start with the basics of a drain system: Water is carried away from
  sinks and appliances and out of the home by gravity, which forces the 
water
  through pipes ranging in size from 1-1/4 to 4 inches in diameter. The size
  of the pipe depends on the size of the fixture.

  The larger the plumbing fixture
  <http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60747>
  http://images.intellitxt.com/ast/adTypes/mag-glass_10x10.gif, the larger 
the
  drainpipe. Kitchen and bath sinks typically drain into 1-1/4- or 
1-1/2-inch
  waste pipe. Two-inch pipes are common for laundry drains, and 3-inch pipes
  are used for most residential toilets.

  However, don't think that the bigger the pipe, the better the drainage. On
  the contrary, the extra space within the pipe actually dissipates the
  pressure built by the water's gravitational flow. As a result, a smaller
  pipe maintains greater pressure and transports water more efficiently.

  Each fixture has a drain equipped with a trap, made from curved sections 
of
  drainpipe. Traps hold a small amount of water that seals the pipe to keep
  sewage gasses from backing up into the house. They're also handy for
  catching wayward objects that disappear down sink drains, such as
  toothbrushes, hair clasps, etc., which can be rescued by using a wrench to
  unscrew the trap.

  Connections between differently sized pipes can be made by fitting a 
reducer
  between the two pipes. When installing new plumbing, keep the waste-pipe
  route as straight and short as possible as it extends from the trap to the
  primary drain stack.

  When planning the waste pipe of a plumbing fixture, always ensure the 
proper
  slope. Clogs can easily occur in horizontal runs of pipe, so install a
  minimum slope of 1/4-inch per foot. Fixture drains also have vents that
  relieve pressure and allow water to flow out freely. These vents connect 
to
  the main vent stack that exits through the roof of the home.

  Even in properly installed plumbing, clogs can still develop, so install a
  "repair-friendly" system to ease your headaches when the time comes to
  address a problem. One trick is to avoid 90-degree bends in underground
  pipe. These sharp bends can slow the flow of water and are also tough to
  navigate with plumbing snakes. Similarly, use 2-inch traps for tubs and
  showers, which also accept drain-cleaning snakes more easily than 
1-1/2-inch
  pipe.

  Draining Dilemmas

  Picture this dire situation: The drain is completely clogged, your kid 
left
  the faucet running and water is cascading down the stairs from one floor 
to
  the next. What to do now?

  Well, for starters, try not to let things get quite that far. Keep a sharp
  eye out for signs of a sluggish drain. It's easier to unclog a slow drain
  than it is to open one that has completely stopped. When the drain is 
slow,
  pour scalding water down the pipe to loosen any buildup of grease. Also,
  clean the stopper or drain screen. If this doesn't locate the problem, 
then
  check the other household drains to determine if the clog is only in one
  fixture. If more than one drain is clogged, then there is a clog in the 
main
  drain pipe.

  When plunging, use a wet rag to seal off the overflow drain to create a
  vacuum.

  The first tool most people grab to fight a sink clog is a simple bathroom
  plunger, which is designed to force water through a pipe to push out a 
clog.
  Pick a plunger with a large enough suction cup to completely cover the 
drain
  and create an airtight seal against the surrounding sink. Fill the fixture
  with water to completely cover the suction cup (it may help to coat the 
rim
  of the cup with petroleum jelly). Seal off any other outlets, such as the
  overflow drain in sinks, to create a vacuum. Push out any trapped air
  beneath the cup, then give the plunger 15 to 20 vigorous up-and-down 
pumping
  strokes to jolt loose the clog. This may take 3 to 5 times to do the job.

  Plungers come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The classic cup-style
  plunger is best suited for sink and shower drains. Another style has a
  flange on the opening which can seal more securely into the bowl of a
  toilet, but that flange can interfere with use in a sink. Some of the more
  innovative plungers allow the user to draw water into a cylinder and then
  push it out with sudden force to remove the clog.

  If a plunger doesn't work and you have access to the P-trap beneath the
  drain, then use a wrench to remove and inspect the trap. Many times the 
trap
  is congested, and a thorough cleanout and replacement is all that's 
needed.

  Access the drain of a tub by removing the overflow plate.

  Snake it Out

  To clear stubborn clogs or an obstruction further down the drainpipe, a
  plumbing snake is a handy tool. A plumbing snake is basically a flexible
  steel cable that works its way through the drain pipe and physically 
pushes
  through clogs, making it one of the most reliable tools for solving the
  problem. However, the snake doesn't work well in tight turns, so remove 
the
  P-trap and the horizontal trap arm from the rear wall. Insert the snake
  directly into drain pipe. When snaking a tub drain, remove the overflow
  plate and snake the cable down the overflow tube. Push the snake into the
  pipe until you hit the obstruction. Try to hook the clog by twisting the
  snake's handle. When the clog is hooked, push the snake back and forth 
until
  the obstruction breaks up. Then flush the pipe with cold water.

  A closet auger is similar to a plumbing snake but the end of the auger is
  bent to fit through the tight curves of a toilet trap. A closet auger
  operates using a hand crank to rotate a cable encased in a rigid shaft.

  If more than one fixture is clogged, then you may need to clean out the 
main
  drain line. To do this, locate the clean-out plugs on the large drain 
pipes
  in your basement or crawlspace. These drain lines may be found in a garage
  or outdoors, along the foundations of the house. Each plug has a cap with 
a
  square fitting at the top. Remove the cap with a wrench. Be ready with a
  bucket to catch dripping water. Also, make absolutely sure no one is going
  to be using the facilities while you have the main drain line open. Use a
  plumbing snake to break up any clogs in the open main line, running it in
  both directions of the pipe.

  Some devices use compressed air to blast through tough clogs.

  Clogs vs. Compressed Air

  If you don't have a plumbing snake handy, or you want to avoid removing 
the
  traps, you might try one of the new clog-removal products that utilize
  compressed air. Hardware and home stores now sell products that shoot
  compressed air into the drain that forces the clog to move. Some
  compressed-air products are sold in disposable cans, which often work 
quite
  well. However, if the air-burst doesn't work and requires repeat 
treatments,
  the compressed air can get expensive.

  Another type of compressed-air product is a reusable device that uses
  cartridges of compressed CO2. Once the tool is loaded with a CO2 
cartridge,
  just press down firmly on the handle and a needle punctures the cartridge,
  sending a powerful burst of air into the drain, instantly unclogging it. 
The
  advantage is that you can keep the tool for future clogs, and all you have
  to replace are the individual cartridges.

  Liquid Clog Removers

  Although frequent use of chemical cleaners can damage your plumbing, they
  can be helpful opening the occasional plugged pipe. If water is slowly
  draining but the pipe is not completely clogged, then a liquid cleaner may
  do the trick. But don't be suckered by the thin liquid products on the
  market. On more than one occasion I've poured a watery cleaner down a
  sluggish drain only to hear the product rush straight past the clog and 
into
  the nether regions of my plumbing system, leaving the problem stuck in the
  drain, mocking me. Each time this happened, I could swear I heard 
somewhere
  in the distance the faint sound of the manufacturer laughing at me.

  Chemical cleaners use either an acid or a base to dissolve stubborn clogs
  and organic matter, so choose a thicker product rather than the cheapest,
  thin liquid plumbing agents. The thicker products stick to the inside of 
the
  pipe and give the chemicals better coverage and contact with the blockage.
  Some products foam-up and cling to the inside walls of the pipe. Allow the
  product to sit as directed, usually about 30 minutes, and follow with
  running water to test the drain.

  There are a few red flags when it comes to chemical cleaners. The first is
  that the active ingredient is often chlorine bleach. This is bad news for
  septic tanks, because bleach can kill the beneficial bacteria of a septic
  system. These products are best suited for systems connected to a city
  sewer.

  Furthermore, liquid clog removers aren't intended for all household clogs.
  For example, clog removers are not designed to remove the waste that may 
be
  clogging your toilet. Also, laundry drain clogs are often due to 
accumulated
  clothing fibers. Liquid drainers don't dissolve these fibers, so those
  problems will probably have to be removed physically, not chemically.

  The general rule of chemical cleaners: Read the instructions on the label
  and only use it as intended. Always use in a well-ventilated area and wear
  rubber gloves. Don't use a plunger if a liquid cleaner is in the drain, or
  you risk splashing caustic chemicals on your skin. And don't pour in a
  liquid cleaner if the drain is completely blocked. Otherwise you'll be 
faced
  with a sink full of caustic water - another mess you'll have to deal with.

  To use a snake, remove the trap to avoid tight bends in the pipe.

  Professional Plumbers

  With a little luck, following these pointers might save you some plumbing
  worries, or at least clear them up when the water starts rising. But of
  course, you can always resort to the Yellow Pages.

  When you do have to pick a plumber, you'll want to hire a qualified,
  full-time professional and not just a "handyman" that does the work on the
  side. This especially applies to bigger jobs, but even the smallest job 
can
  turn big and expensive if not handled correctly. Paying a little extra for
  quality work may save a lot of money in the long run.

  When choosing a plumber, request an estimate. Talk to your plumber about 
the
  overall cost of the job, even if it seems like its going to be a small,
  inexpensive project. Also, check for a license, ask for a timeframe and
  professional references and confirm their insurance credentials. Plumbers
  come in all shapes and sizes and levels of experience, so do a little
  research before forking over any money.

  C Copyright All Rights Reserve

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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