Ray we have a big eight foot gate which is held up by some smaller
logging chaing and two turnbucles to adjust the level of the gate to
leta slide bolt move into a four by four. but the main tower or
main post is a 12 by 12. which is 12 feet tall and nearly 5 feet are
in the ground with lots of big rocks and lots of cement. in the winter
we remove this gate to let power company trucks access a big pole and
transformer in our back yard. not sure what it is called but this gate
also rests on like two big pins my sons will lift this gate and let
it slide down and there it sets for the summer. turnbuckles make it
easy as I said to adjust th heigth. or level . Lee
On Sat, May 23,
2009 at 05:07:38PM
+1000,
Ray Boyce wrote:
> First, use the biggest, beefiest hinge hardware you can find. Second, build
> the gate doors with ample bracing. For large doors, skip the "Z" shaped
> bracing in favor of a "double Z" for each door. In other words, each door
> should utilize three 2-by-4 cross braces perpendicular to the fencing and
> two diagonal braces connecting them, with the fence boards driven into each
> brace they cross. Correctly constructing your support posts is also
> critical. You'll get more stability from 6-by-6 posts rather than 4-by-4's.
> Each post should be anchored with a concrete footing and be buried in the
> ground a third of its height. Plus, at the base of the two posts, install a
> horizontal post flush between the two, or use a poured bridge of concrete,
> to prevent the posts from pulling towards each other at the bottom, due to
> the weight of the gate doors.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
--
"Don't worry about people stealing your ideas. If your ideas are any good,
you'll have to ram them down people's throats."
-- Howard Aiken
Are you curious? Ask me about Temptations toy parties.
