I haven't bothered to mention it before, but apparently, according to the guy I know who built his studio, the foam or flexible padding between the wall cladding, and the studs, is not necessary.
For the exact same reason that Dale mentioned about putting the studs flat. That allows for more flexibility of the cladding, thus making more vibration in the wall cavity. Most books on studio design say that you should rigidly attach the wall cladding to the studs. The inner and outer wall cladding should be decoupled. And the mass of the cladding should be as heavy as possible. Most studio designs call for two layers of 5/8 dry wall on each wall surface. The layers of dry wall should be hung at 90 degrees to each other. Adding fiberglass insulation in the wall cavity may help slightly, but it should be unfaced if possible. The header and footer should be decoupled, but I am not going to go that far. I also doubt I will go as far as an airlock style door system. It would just take up far too much room. I doubt this wall will be sound proof, I am just hoping it is sound reducing. The one issue my coworker mentioned is that after you get through making sure that sound doesn't leak out of the room, you have the issue that a lot of that sound energy stays in the room. If you don't do anything to absorb the sound inside the room, it will be loud as hell in there. I doubt I will do much to avoid that, but I'll see what it is like once I get the shop up and running. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [email protected] Tel: (412) 268-9081
