[uucdigest]          Thursday, March 2 2000          Volume 03 : Number 369



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re: [uuc] Poodles and sheep, poodles and sheep, I've gotta get me some poodles 
and s
       [uuc] Vibration at 90+ mph on 525i
       Re: [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Tree 1, Greg 0
       [uuc] Books on suspension tuning..
       Re: [uuc] The 740 tow vehicle
       [uuc] <E30> Auto to Manual Conversion (Long)
       [uuc] Website for M6 FS
       [uuc] Re: Auto Tranny fluid question..
       Re: [uuc] Vibration at 90+ mph on 525i
       [uuc] Poodle-Mania
       [uuc] <E28> Yooouuu light up my life...
       Re: [uuc] E36-M3 TWO TONE INTERIOR??
       Re: [uuc] Poodles and sheep, poodles and sheep, I've gotta get me some poodles 
and s

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 00:31:38 -0800
From: "Robert Chay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Poodles and sheep, poodles and sheep, I've gotta get me some 
poodles and s

It's okay to love your Poodle... just don't "love" your Poodle...

- -Bobby

- ----- Original Message ----- 
>
> At 08:02 AM 3/1/00 EST, Steven Reed wrote:
> >Ewwwwwww.  
> >
> 
> 
> Hmmm....guess that means he's a Sheep guy, not a Poodle lover....
> 
> 
> 
> Jim "That was just too easy..." Ochi
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 15:01:54 +0300
From: Munsoor Malik <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Vibration at 90+ mph on 525i

I have a 1995 US spec 525i with new Pirelli P6000 tires.  The tires have
been balanced and checked, alignment verified and all seems to be in
spec.

The car is extremely smooth until 90 mph, then it has a slight vibration
all the way to the maximum speed. The vibration is fairly slight, more
like a roughness in the ride.  It stays constant up to maximum speed.
The car has a Jim C. chip modified for no oxygen sensor and no catalytic
converter................a huge difference from the factory
configuration.

The thrust arm bushings, tires and front wheel bearings were replaced
last year.

The dealer seems to be clueless regarding this.  Any suggestions on how
I can correct this annoying problem.

Also, if the alignment seems at the limit in some areas where there is
no adjustment would that indicate a problem.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 04:13:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: [E36M3] Tree 1, Greg 0

It's good to see that you've learned from this rather than blaming
the car or the tires or so forth.  I've always advocated that if you
want to drive like a racecar driver, do it on a race track.  On the
street where 99% of your fellow drivers are morons, you have to be on
the defensive 110% of the time - on the track, you split your time
between offensive and defensive positioning - in either case, the
techniques aren't appropriate for the street.  Even the best street
driver is clueless when you tuck underneath in an exit ramp - not
that I've ever tried this <g>

BTW, driving fast isn't difficult, it's driving well that's a
challenge.  

- --- Greg Koenig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> My plan now is to hurry up and get a lease on a nice, cushy E46
> sedan that
> my friends and I can tool around in and leave all the fast driving
> to a race
> course.  The Dinanstein will come back.  First for a few more
> driving
> schools, then he will kick some in club racing.
> 
> Driving fast on the road isn't worth the feeling I have this
> morning when I
> go into the garage and see my car.
> 
> Greg
> 
> 

=====
Matthew Yip
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/

'87 GTi 16v - x2
'88 M5 
'99 F350
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 07:17:02 -0500
From: Chris Pawlowicz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Books on suspension tuning..

Vijay sez
> The classroom instructor at the OFest driving school at Putnam Park 
> recommended a book for suspension tuning for race cars. Anyone here have 
> any idea what the book was? 
> 
> Alternately, if anyone here knows of a good reference book for suspension 
> tuning, please advise.
> 

there is a book by Puhn called 'How to Make Your Car Handle' (or
something pretty close to that)

it is a very good overall reference, with lots of info on why
camber/caster/springs/sway bars etc are important, what role they play,
how to intelligently adjust them etc. It also has info on how to make  a
camber gauge, how to corner weight your car etc

Should be available at any big bookstore.. or Classic motorbooks


chris pawlowicz
'89 325i
'74 2002

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 04:22:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Matthew Yip <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] The 740 tow vehicle

GASP!!  Are you saying that Dave Farnsworth wasn't exactly smart to
have purchased his 740 as a tow vehicle?  Say it isn't so!!  I was
planning on trading my F350 for a nice 740 so I could pull those
little 7000 lb trailers to Pro Races.  

- --- Duane Collie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Towing with a 740 is akin to having Sophie Marceau (my most latest
> lust
> interest) in your house and you ask her to scrub the kitchen floors
> as part
> of her chores.  Now, Sophie can probably scrub the floors alright,
> but she
> ain't a-gonna scrub 'em as good as Bertha, the 275 lb. semi-pro
> world ladies
> wrestling federation contender (otherwise know as a Ford F-250 /
> Excursion
> with Powerstroke Diesel).

> Get the right tool for the job - as always.


=====
Matthew Yip
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.geocities.com/mgyip/

'87 GTi 16v - x2
'88 M5 
'99 F350
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 22:23:34 +1000
From: "Ian & Kim Solomon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Auto to Manual Conversion (Long)

Hi Guys,
Thought I'd bring you up to date with the E30 Baur Cabrio trials and
tribulations.
You may remember that I posted a while back about the head gasket blowing,
well when I picked it up from the mechanic, the auto transmission died
again, same problem as 4 months ago, the front clutch pack failure.

I decided that if I was going to fix it, it would be done properly, and
promptly got quotes to recondition the auto. Well, these ranged from $1500
for a rough job, to $2600 for a good one. Let's try Plan B
Called a local company called German Wrecking and got a quote to perform
complete swap to 5 spd for $2100. This option was definately a winner.
I am a member of an Auto Club which provides free towing up to 40 km (25
miles) so I manged to get the car from home to work (30 kms) with the very
slippery auto (slow trip) and got the tow truck to take it the rest of the
way.
While waiting for the tow, I noticed two big dents, one on each front fender
from items being dropped during the head gasket job.
3 days later, I get the car back, however the clutch shudders badly, so back
it goes for a new clutch.
Finally get it back again, and notice the idle is strange, which I trace
back to the ICV. The original died about a year ago, and was replaced by one
from a different year which is electric operated.

QUESTION: Does anyone know if these units can be repaired/cleaned.
I have blocked off the pipes to the unit so now the idle is fine when warm,
but too slow when cold.

I also had the "Dentoway" man out to remove the dents (at the mechanic's
expense) and the results are perfect, These guys are GOOD.

I also fitted the ///M Roadster lever, along with a bolted rubber mount
(similar to the CRK) at the rear of the metal console, and an ERK machined
at my place of employment. Working in the engineering sector has it's
rewards.

Next on the agend will be to make my own version of the Rob Knob, probably
from Stainless Steel. (nice and heavy)

QUESTION: What is the thinking on getting the standard front brake rotors
either drilled or slotted. Again, I can get this done at work, but will it
cause problems (eg shattering)

Any way, thats it for now........
oh BTW, the change to a manual is AWESOME.

PS: What oil should I used in the manual tranny. I know it's been asked
before, but I wasn't listening then.


Ian Solomon #257
BMW Club Queensland
www.bmwclubqld.asn.au
'85 323i Baur Cabrio, (BL/SSd, CRK, ERK, Stut Brace) all my own work
www.powerup.com.au/~irs/Default.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 07:19:47 -0500
From: "Langsten" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Website for M6 FS

This fine 1987 M6 is For Sale, asking $11,750.00
You can see it at:
http://sites.netscape.net/threeemw/homepage

Contact me for more details.

Mario Langsten
Bow, NH 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 08:18:33 -0500
From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Auto Tranny fluid question..

Dave, first things first.  The "don't mess with a high mileage trans" is
ONLY if there is no service history on it.  I'm quite comfortable with doing
trans fluid changes at 300K miles, provided it's been serviced at less than
60K mile intervals.  If you have service history on the trans, don't
hesitate to continue to service it.

I would advise against synthetic fluid for one reason and one reason only.

Your trans holds about 9 quarts of fluid.  During an average drain and
refill, you get out just under 4 quarts.

If you fill it with synthetic, you now have a little less than 50/50 mix of
regular oil and synthetic.  Therefore, you are getting virtually no
additional protection from the synthetic, at a much higher cost.

You could change the oil 5 times in 5 days and still have a percentage of
regular oil in the trans.  At what point do you decide that it is now well
protected by the synthetic?

Synthetic oil in automatic transmissions is only really a viable idea if the
trans is rebuilt with it.  That means the rebuilder uses synthetic to lube
it as he assembles it, it does not mean get a new trans from BMW, empty it
and fill it with synthetic.


Brett Anderson
www.koalamotorsport.com
Home of the E30 M3 CD-ROM repair manual



> From: "Dave Lacki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] Auto Tranny fluid question..
>
> car in question is a 90 535i with 120k miles.
>Question is when I get ready to change the fluid should I stick
> with the standard dextron 3 or try a fancy synthetic..i.e.. redline. Ive
> heard that a synthetic is slicker so to speak and may cause some slippage.
> Also dont mess with a transmission with that many miles on it.
> Any thoughts...
> Dave

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 07:44:07 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Vibration at 90+ mph on 525i

That sounds like it could be a second or third order tire harmonic.  There
is nothing you can do about that other than change tires.  If you could
somehow estimate the frequency that would help pinpoint the problem.  Try
adjusting the tire pressure to see if that changes the vibration.

Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I have a 1995 US spec 525i with new Pirelli P6000 tires.  The tires have
> been balanced and checked, alignment verified and all seems to be in
> spec.
>
> The car is extremely smooth until 90 mph, then it has a slight vibration
> all the way to the maximum speed. The vibration is fairly slight, more
> like a roughness in the ride.  It stays constant up to maximum speed.
> The car has a Jim C. chip modified for no oxygen sensor and no catalytic
> converter................a huge difference from the factory
> configuration.
>
> The thrust arm bushings, tires and front wheel bearings were replaced
> last year.
>
> The dealer seems to be clueless regarding this.  Any suggestions on how
> I can correct this annoying problem.
>
> Also, if the alignment seems at the limit in some areas where there is
> no adjustment would that indicate a problem.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:18:38 -0500
From: "Steve D'Gerolamo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Poodle-Mania

If you want to learn more, there's the "other" Jane Goodall story: "Poodles 
in the Mist". Pay no attention to fictional accounts like "Greystoke: the 
Legend Of Tarzan, Lord of the Poodles" or "Mighty Joe Poodle". Those 
ridiculous '60s movies (such as "Poodzilla vs. Mothra" and "The Poodle from 
the Black Lagoon") have no bearing in reality whatsoever. The ultimate way 
to learn is to watch The Discovery Channel during "Poodle Week" (highest 
ratings of the year).
====================================================
Poodles are perhaps the smartest of the canines...not as humorous as a
flock of weiner dogs and not as macho as Rottweillers (even Martha S.
herself is partial to the Rotts for Tots "Carl" books).  SD

=========================================
Steve D'Gerolamo - The Ultimate Garage
201-262-0412 / [EMAIL PROTECTED] / http://www.ultimategarage.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 08:23:02 -0500
From: Patrick Burns <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Yooouuu light up my life...

I seem to have either stumped or bored everyone with my low beam fault
indicator question, so I'll skip that one for now and proceed to my next
couple. :)

Not having gotten a response from the only AutoPal headlight supplier I've
contacted, and considering the overwhelming negative response to my JC Whitney
headlight question (there were two guys who said they worked fine, many more
who said they didn't... *shrug*), it looks like I'll just live on hot dogs and
coffee for a while and buy either some Hellas or Cibies. :)

Are the stock female headlight connectors, the parts which fit onto the blades
of the stock H5006 and H5001 sealed beams, a direct plug in for the respective
H4 and H1 bulbs, or will I have to come up with my own connectors?

Are the Euro 5.75" high beams, with 55 watt H1 bulbs, significanly brighter or
of better pattern than 50 watt H5001 sealed beams? This one's more for
curiosity's sake, since if I'm dropping the bucks on the Euro lights, I'm damn
well going to put illegal bulbs in them too. ;)

If I'm making my own wiring harness with relays and fuses, should I take
switching power for the relays 'upstream' from the stock relays? It seems a
bit silly to run relays through relays, especially when the stock high beam
relay appears to either be on its way out, or just naturally be very, very
slow to wake up in cold weather.

Finally, if anyone's used both the Cibie flat face 5.75" and Hella 5.75"
high/lows, did you notice a difference in their aiming between high and low?
Specifically, I've been told that the Hellas have a bit of a 'beam separation'
problem, where if they're aimed properly on low beam, the high beams are up in
the trees, and if they're aimed well on high beam, the low beam's too low, and
that the Cibies do not exibit this tendency. Of course, I've been told this by
someone selling the (significantly more expensive) Cibies, so I'd kind of like
an unbiased opinion. :)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 09:00:44 -0500
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E36-M3 TWO TONE INTERIOR??

> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Has Anyone made their M3 interior 2-tone? I have a e36 M3 2dr with
Sport
> > seats and a all black interior. I want to do the seats (grey and
black) the
> > sifter boot grey, the center of the door grey and get grey speedo
and rpm .
> > Anyone have pics or info on this please help.!.!.!

Then Chester Wong wrote:

> I think they actually came from the factory that way.  I remember when
I was
> shopping for my M3, I saw a technoviolet M3 in the showroom which had
either
> two tone or tri-tone leather seats.  Very cool...  No one was ever
able to give
> me the definite name to it....DOH!
>

On  my E39 M5 that color is called Silverstone. Black Sport seats with
grey(silverstone)  center panels and grey center door panels. Goes great
with the brushed aluminum trim option that C&D didn't like. I couldn't
get rid of all the gadgets but at least I could get the wood out so I
don't have to worry about termites.;^)

Bill Matthews
Hockessin DE
00 MGeeze
some Volvos

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 09:22:13 EST
From: "Steven Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Poodles and sheep, poodles and sheep, I've gotta get me some 
poodles and s

>----- Original Message -----
> >
> > At 08:02 AM 3/1/00 EST, Steven Reed wrote:
> > >Ewwwwwww.
> > >
> >
> >
> > Hmmm....guess that means he's a Sheep guy, not a Poodle lover....
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim "That was just too easy..." Ochi
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
What can I say... I've been a baaaaaaaad boy

Steve "I leave myself open..." Reed
______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #369
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