[uucdigest] Saturday, March 4 2000 Volume 03 : Number 387 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Visit http://www.bubbaclub.com | www.bimmers.com - "serving enthusiasts on the 'net" | Visit http://www.bimmer.org - ultimate BMW bulletin boards! | Subscribe to the Zionsville Autosport Parts Digest: | http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/majordomo.htm ����������������������������������������� In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] New 3.0 motor DentFest (was: Re: [uuc] Touring Poodles) Re: [uuc] When is my M3 warmed up? [uuc] [E28] Driveline Misbehavior Re: [uuc] E46 - Advice on Tires & Sizes [uuc] Deck height on early 4 cyl [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS> Re: [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO? [uuc] When is my M3 warmed up? [uuc] Jackstands! [uuc] Auto tranny...change the filter or not... [uuc] <all> Silver wheel paint [uuc] E28-535 cat [uuc] <e28> Trunk lid springs [uuc] A good BMW shop/mechanic in Seattle area [uuc] wheels FS [uuc] <E30> ABS problems [uuc] Re: So who wants to be a resale expert? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 19:32:50 -0800 From: "Sumant Jayaraman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] New 3.0 motor So, is the neue 3.0l 6 still an M52? Cheers Sumant ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 09:21:15 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: DentFest (was: Re: [uuc] Touring Poodles) Well, I totally missed the "Rob's new ride" thread....been too busy at work lately. So I see this pimped out Avus blue wagon with a ///M5 badge on the grill. Cool. Later on, I see Rob in the blue wagon. "Is that yours?" Rob sez, "You didn't see the thread?" "Uh...nope." Well, we all jumped in to go for a ride to the local Dunkin Donuts. Oh man, that thing goes through the corners flat! Maybe I was just too used to driving my dad's 740i to the event...I dunno. Even with 5 adults in the car, she hauled ass. I took quit a few pics, I'll post later today. I also found out that I was supposed to wait around for someone to give me something...I might be headed out there again =( ttyl, Chester ===== __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 11:26:57 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] When is my M3 warmed up? Your M5 experience is typical. Oil takes a lot longer to warm up than water. But oil doesn't have to be 200 degrees before you rev the engine. The M5 manual warns to keep below 4000 rpm until the oil temp gauge begins to move. That's only 120 degrees and in my car, that happens about the time the water temp is up to normal (mid scale). Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Dear Digesters, > I used to rely on my water temp gague in my M3 to feel safe before > revving the engine. Since I bought my '91 M5, I notice that the water > temp indicator comes up and settles out long before the oil temp gague > settles out at its maximum point. I'm worried that I have been > prematurely revving the M3. Does anyone have an E36 M3 with an oil temp > gague who can tell me how this compares to the water temp? > --Eric Carnell > National Capital Chapter > '99 M3 > '91 M5 > '95 540iA ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:34:07 -0500 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] [E28] Driveline Misbehavior <<<<<<[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] [E28] Driveline Misbehavior Howdy, all- Once again, I call upon the wisdom of the UUC... Last month, I noticed a very loud "drumroll" (about 3-7 rapid beats) emanating from between/behind the front seats. "That's a u-joint and/or the center support bearing," says me.>>>>>>>>>. I'd be looking at the rear crossmember mounts and the diff mounting subframe which likes to crack around the bolts. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:23:20 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E46 - Advice on Tires & Sizes A 235/40 is 0.6 inches (2.5%) shorter than a 225/45. That may cause a problem with the ABS. Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm looking to purchase a set of tires for my '99 E46 323i/4. I really had > my mind set on the Yokohama A520's, but the problem is they don't make them > in 225/45/17, only 235/40/17. I also liked the Dunlop W10's I had on my '98 > GTI VR6, but same problem - they don't produce them in the 225/45/17. > > Now, my question is if I went w/a 235/40/17, would I have any problems > (rubbing, etc?) - the car is stock 323i/4 w/Sport pkg, so it's a little lower > than a stock 323. The wheels are 17x7.5, so I'm also wondering if the > 235/40's will look a little funny (i.e. that "overlap" look). > > I'm really looking for a reasonably inexpensive tire (I don't wanna spend > more than $140 each) - If anyone on the list has experience with those Yok's, > or if they can give some advice as to what tire and what size I should look > into, I'd greatly appreciate it.. > > TIA > > -Ted > '99 323i/4 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 12:39:32 -0500 From: "Phemister, George" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Deck height on early 4 cyl I need to know if it's posssible to deck the early 4 cyl block, and whether there are any specs on piston top vs block deck. George ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 13:07:17 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Avus Blue M5 <FS> All right troops, here's you chance. Y'all been drooling onto the keyboard about Rob's new car. I can quite match it, but it's close. 93 M5 Individual Avus/silver leather with ///M sport cloth inserts in seats Dark gray wood trim One of last four US cars built 3/93 Concours condition, near flawless inside and out Former Roundel cover car, will be featured in Bimmer and a book about the E34 ///M cars D***N chip, factory CD changer 20,000 miles $39,500 (not including Labrador) Sorry it doesn't have poodles, sheep, and an Aussie master technician. No lowballers or tirekickers need to inquire. If you sent me a lowball offer before, don't bother again. Not interested in people who require a 24" Snap On pry bar to get their wallet out. OK; who's going to be the lucky person whose cashier's check (or cash) hits my desk first. Car is located in Indianapolis. - --jeff ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 13:05 -0500 From: "PHILIP HENDERSON" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Ya want a Hon-DO? >Naw....its a pile o' crud that'll die at 120K like ALL HONDAS DO. If it's >not the timing belt, it will be the head gasket. If its not the head >gasket, it will be the alternator or the A/C compressor. That, or it will >simply rust away....s-l-o-w-l-y. I've never had a Honda (and I've owned >from Civics to Legends) that had any durability beyond 100K miles to speak >of. I bet you could have fixed the Hondas to keep them on the road well beyond 200k...the timing belt should be changed at normal intervals, an alternator can be replaced, etc. Their parts cost less, too, so you'd still come out ahead, money-wise, versus a BMW. The fact is that you probably didn't *want* to keep the Hondas any longer. A CRX and Integra have been parked in my garages over the years; the '84 CRX ran for me with no problems until '91, and I sold the '91 Integra just because I felt like it in '95. Honda can engineer cars as good as any other company on the planet - witness their Formula 1 domination in the '80s. Realistically, their cars cost quite a bit less than BMWs, and are aimed at a broader, less enthusiast based market. Part of the extra price you pay for a BMW is for better quality sheet metal and interior bits. I truly loved both my Hondas, the only concession I will grant you is that, for reasons of image and a less enthusiast oriented product lineup, the Hondas don't inspire the passion BMWs do. - -Phil '93 525i (now with new 16" BBS RKs for Spring!) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 19:21:20 +0100 From: mill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] When is my M3 warmed up? > I used to rely on my water temp gague in my M3 to feel safe >before >revving the engine. Since I bought my '91 M5, I notice that the water >temp indicator comes up and settles out long before the oil temp gague >settles out at its maximum point. I'm worried that I have been >prematurely revving the M3. Does anyone have an E36 M3 with an oil >temp >gague who can tell me how this compares to the water temp? My euro-M3 has an oil temp gauge. All "euro"M3 have one. And I don't want to live without one. The water temp gauge is not suitable to say when the engine is ready to rev! Water temp rises very quick (2 Minutes) as the oil temp needs between 5- 10 minutes to be in the safe range. It's better to count the miles, if you don't have a oil temp gauge. After approx. 8 miles the oil temp should be in the safe operating range (>80 degrees celsius). My manual says: - - don't rev over 4000 rpm with oil temp below 50�C (in winter, this lasts almost 5 minutes to reach 50�C!) - - oil temp must be over 80�C to rev to redline It's a good thing to have a oil temp gauge installed, especially if you have such an expensive engine as an S50 (euro). I don't miss that stupid gas consumption gauge from the normal E36 cars. Mill 93 M3 with oil temp gauge ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 13:10:32 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Jackstands! Does anyone have a recommendation on Jackstands by either Brand or Source? Walt << And that, was the last time I ever got under a car with no jackstands. I don't even like - to this day - working under a car with cheesie China-made jackstands. I want top quality, pro equipment 'cause my life is worth it. - - Duane The Seven Sled >> ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 13:08:57 -0600 From: "Dave Lacki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Auto tranny...change the filter or not... Hello, I was getting ready to change the transmission fluid and filter on my 90 535i and I heard one of the BMW techs say "dont worry about the filter" because it isn't much of a filter anyway and if yours isn't leaking then pulling the pan may cause some problems. Anyone have any thoughts on this....it seems stupid not to change the filter...but if I dont have to then I wont. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 11:19:45 -0800 From: tabe johnson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <all> Silver wheel paint Anyone know if silver paint exists which is the same colour as the OEM paint? Where? Thanks, - --tabe johnson Vancouver BC [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 11:27:22 -0800 From: Polands <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E28-535 cat Steve D', thanks for the comment. Do you mean that DEC is the supplier to Stebro, and it's just their design that has (had?) problems, or do you mean that because of the location on the e28 that every mfr's cat sees more damage? I don't think this one shows any impact damage, but not certain. Steve Poland ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 11:43:50 -0800 From: Polands <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <e28> Trunk lid springs Tony Z, you aren't alone. I didn't have the disconnected torsion spring to start with, but had the trunk lid open too strongly and "over center" just as you describe while on a trip to california just after I purchased it. I too spent about 15 minutes upside down in the trunk (parked in front of the signature Pebble Beach lone shore pine) wrestling with the hinge & spring in order to shut the trunk. Thank goodness for the tool kit! I tried using the lowest spring setting for a while, but after the over center thing happened two more times, I couldn't stand it. So I devised a more thorough stop for the hinge, which has been fine ever since. I will go out and sketch it, or maybe borrow the office digital camera, and send you the pic. I don't know how to "post them on a web site", so maybe someone can volunteer to receive them and do that, as I suspect we aren't the only two to have experienced this problem. I've cross posted this because I doubt anyone else is nerdy enough to have bothered with the solution I came up with, but it may be of use. Steve Poland '88 535is ________ Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 05:11:04 -0800 (PST) From: Anthony Zielinski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: <e28> Trunk lid springs I noticed that one of the two rods (left one) that act as springs for the lid was out of its bracket, just hanging there. So, I ...just stick it back in there...(now)the "U" shaped part snaps past the extended position and ... makes it impossible to close the lid... ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 13:52:49 -0700 From: Pearson-Franks Family <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] A good BMW shop/mechanic in Seattle area Christopher: In addition to the reference to Strictly BMW (good guys, and strong supporters of the local Club), I have had great experiences with Ultimate Motors in Kirkland; 425.822.1212. Larry F. ><< Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 11:06:11 PST > From: "Christopher Chow" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] looking for a good BMW shop/mechanic is Seattle area > > hello, > anyone in the seattle area can recommend a good BMW mechanic so i can > get a buyer's inspection done? hopefully a reasonably priced one as well... > _ >> - -- Larry Franks Issaquah, Washington '95 540i/6 '95 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 17:37:39 -0500 From: Howard K Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] wheels FS I have a set of four BMW OEM 7JX15 'flying saucer' wheels off early 750i for sale. These are very light, strong wheels make by Fuchs, recently refinished, with new center caps and absolutely zero scratches or scrapes. Gives a nice 'Euro' look for E12 and E28 5-series, and E24 6-series. $500, I'll cover 48-state shipping. Ken Mitchell Durham, NC 919/416-3820 [EMAIL PROTECTED] (P.M.) [EMAIL PROTECTED] (weekdays) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 17:03:49 -0600 From: clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] <E30> ABS problems Took advantage of the great weather and removed the stock suspension from my current car and replaced it w/the parts from my wrecked car (ala Road America, turn 13). Both are '87 325is. This was a simple swap of rear springs/shocks and front struts. The struts were removed and reinstalled as a unit; no disassembly. All went well and I'm ecstatic w/the improvement. BUT, the ABS light now comes on as soon as the car begins moving. On a test run, I learned that the ABS is now non-functional. Previously everything worked fine in both cars. The ABS system was not worked on, other than to remove the sensors from one strut assembly and replace them in the exchanged unit. They were wiped off before reassembly. The fit was VERY tight, even w/grease, and I had to gently tap both sensors into place w/a hammer. I also pushed the pots back into the calipers to accomodate the exchanged rotor/pad set-up (though stock); I've done this on every brake job and never had any problems afterward. Any ideas on what to check or what could be wrong? Did the sensors get damaged from the hammer? Was a switch flipped that needs resetting? TIA clarence Badger Bimmers ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 17:42:23 -0600 From: Bill Weismann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: So who wants to be a resale expert? > M3's have held their value as they are a highly desirable car. > The automotive press loves them and they have few vices. That > keeps the value up - just like it does on Porsche 911's and > Chevy Surburbans. This is very true. > Interestingly enough, the '95 E38 740i I just bought had an > MSRP in the 60's and they are now selling in the high 20's > ....now there's a steal for ya. What is also interesting is that very few mass produced $60+K cars keep their value well. This is particularly true for BMW, Jaguar and Japanese luxomobiles. Mercedes might be the only exception short of exotics. alex f Well I work in "the business" so I guess I am a resale expert :) I deal in highline pre-owned cars. You'd be surprised what a *_REALLY_* nice M-Car will go for at auction (Which is not a bad place to buy em but thats a totally different topic). Although, hi-mile ones go cheap.. 70-80K+ 95 M3s are a good throw under $20K wholesale... Id say closer to $15K than $20K. On a wholesale level, high mileage slaughters hi-line cars. M3, 740i, S500, XJ6..etc.. It kills them all.. Getting back to M-Cars.. as a rule they all have incredible resale value. Put it this way.. "Average Book" (From a 2-14 black book that I have sitting here.. avg is about what a clean car with good miles is really worth on trade/wholesale) on a '93 M5 is $26,775 while its' $15,450 on a 93 535i.5-sp and I know that the M5 was not THAT much more when it was new (Not 57% anyways!) Next 5er that's worth that much wholesale is a base '97 528i! Hell, that's still more than a '93 850ci! Of course this is just a guide as the books are just that but it might give you an idea. Looking at auction results backs this data up as well. Modifications: On a WHOLESALE LEVEL Modifications add hardly anything to a car's value. Trading in your '97 528i with Dinan Rims? I'll tell you that i'd almost rather have the stock wheels/tires on the car! I also wont give you any more for the car with the Dinan rims. I have seen Jaguars time and time again get "punished" at the auction for having wire wheels, BMW/Mercedes for having aftermarket rims.. Perfect Eample. I have seen more than a couple of S500/S420s sell for the same price as stock-wheeled cars when they were sitting on $4K+ worth of Lorinser/AMG rims. Reason is.. while a car with some neat mods will appeal to people like US, to the average joe off the street it says "This car saw redline at every shift and has been beaten to hell". It takes a very special buyer to appreciate a car like that which is why most listmembers seem to sell their cars privately (Smart thing to do). Something to ponder! Bill PS.. if any listmembers have market-related questions.. I'd be glad to help. ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #387 ************************** _________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | Bonneville Motorwerks . http://www.bonnevillemotorwerks.com | Circle Tire Co. 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