[uucdigest] Wednesday, March 20 2002 Volume 03 : Number 4990
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] [e30] Rod Bearing 101 Re: [uuc] Re: Rusted E30 strut [uuc] E30 valve noise Re: [uuc] Borla exhaust for E36 M3 [uuc] Re: <E30> 325iS Not Cranking w/ New Starter. Push Start OK. Re: [uuc] E30 valve noise Re: [uuc] Rusted E30 strut assembly--convert to 5-bolt RE: [uuc] OBC trouble [uuc] Diminished Value Claims Re: [uuc] E30 valve noise ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:42:32 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] [e30] Rod Bearing 101 Obviously you need to access the rod to change the bearing. You also want to carefully measure the crankpin diameter and check it for roundness and surface finish so you need to remove the upper pan. Gary Derian > Gary D and other experts, > > The Dirty E30 (84 318i) lies lifeless due to my ignorance and a spun rod > bearing(s?). I have all the parts (gaskets, new oil drain washers, gasket > dressing, lock tite, moly engine assembly lube, some bargain Craftmen sockets > from Ebay etc, as well as the Rod bearings themselves) > With several (make that about 23,654,640 from 1st alone) suggestions from > fellow list members, it seemed I need only to remove the lower oil pan to > replace the bearings, one at a time, by turning the engine. I don't see how I > could reach the last one, closest to the trannie, as it is inside the upper > oil pan. The Bentley seems to imply that you can remove both the upper and > lower oil pan w/o pulling the engine, but neglects to mention that pesky > steering rack in the way. Anyone care to give any direction before I attempt > this? Mayhap some neato trick? I was assured I would not have to pull the > engine (or jack it slightly) as you in-line 6'ers have to. > > TIA as always, > Jim Laing > Shade tree mech. with little exp, plenty o' gusto > > Jim Laing > 84 318i EVO II <----------refuses to die @ 253k miles! > 85 325e <----------wish it were dead long ago... > Dirty E30(s) > www.DirtyE30.net ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:29:49 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Rusted E30 strut On mine, I had to use a die grinder and cutoff wheel to cut through the nut (it was outside the tube). Gary Derian > Luis wrote: > >I was in the process of replacing the stock struts on my '86 325 > >but the strut housing is badly rusted in the nut/collar area & I > >need to replace them. > > Or the cheap b*stard solution: > > 1) PB Blaster > 2) BF'n pipe wrench > 3) Vise or better to hold the whole enchilada while you remove the > retaining nut > > -Carlos > 91 M3 > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage > http://sports.yahoo.com/ > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:42:33 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E30 valve noise I have a few questions about some excessive valve noise in my '87 325i. I think it is too loud... or at least abnormal, and so does someone who has been around more E30's than me. I have what sounds for all the world like one valve is louder than the others. Inside the car, at idle, I get a tak..tak..tak noise. It doesn't get louder with increasing engine rpm, just faster. Outside the car I can hear all the valves going tiky-tiky and the same tak interspersed. Any ideas? I am hoping that it is as simple as a poorly adjusted valve. I am having a heck of a time getting them adjusted right. I have gotten closest (I think) by doing them hot, but I still think I must be doing something wrong, any ideas? - -- Joe - -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 08:23:56 -0800 (PST) From: Sasha <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Borla exhaust for E36 M3 Michael wrote: " ...I was disappointed that it barely sounded louder than the stock exhaust. It REALLY was hard to tell them apart. At WOT past 4k, it did make alittle bit more noise, but not much. Nobody EVER mentioned noticing my car had an aftermarket exhaust. It did resonant around 2k but not very loudly. Listening to my car vs others(UUC, Supersprint, Remus etc), the borla was by far the least noticeable exhuast. I actually wanted more sound personally....." My 87 535i came with Stebro exhaust (www.stebro.net) It is loud! Not high pitch ricy sound. But very low "set every alarm in parking garage" low. So, if you want to be loud, Stebro is the choice. I also like quality of it. I looks and feels bulletproof. The down side is everyone at home and at work knows when i arrive and leave. Hope it helps. Sasha. El Sobrante, CA 535i, 325i. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:21:13 -0800 (PST) From: James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: <E30> 325iS Not Cranking w/ New Starter. Push Start OK. I'll take that crappy M5 off your hands for $10k! Like Gary said, is there a missing block ground? If you try to run all the starter current though the head ground wire (if there is one) you're in trouble. If there isn't one, put one in to prevent galvanic corrosion from the head to the block. Also, is there a lot of corrosion around the starter mount on the block? The starter grounds directly to the engine block. If all else fails, buy a grounding strap from an auto parts store and bolt it down under one of the starter bolts. Find a good spot on the chassis to attach it. Also, I noticed on my M30 starter, there are 2 contacts on the soleniod where you can slip the blade connector on. One of them will trigger the starter (+12VDC from the ignition switch), the other will do nothing. I was pulling my hair out for an hour trying to figure that one out. The M20 starter may not have these 2 different contacts. Also make sure that nut on the grounding stud on the back of the solenoid is tight. If not, the soleniod will not get a good ground to the starter casing. Try shorting the large "+" connection on the solenoid (the "+" stud) to the soleniod trigger contact. This should fire up the starter. Actually, this was the only way I could get my old Peugeot 505 wagon to start once the engine was hot. I had an old screwdriver in the car specifically for that purpose. JamesM > From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > After 10 days of messing around with cleaning the > starter, bench testing it (works), I finally decided > to get a new starter. Put new starter in. No > difference. Comments: > > 1. Both old and new starters can be hand turned in one > direction easily, but not in the other. I guess that > is just how they are. > > 2. Changed out the oil pan gasket and the engine won't > crank. IMPORTANT? The only thing that did not go in > as it was before was the bolts that hold the > inspection cover on. They were incorrectly installed > by the previous worker and Don and I put them in the > right places. Now I wonder if there was a reason for > it. Push start is easy. Hand crank of engine is > easy. > > 3. Starter if fine. It is new! 12.39V available. > 0.14V drop across solenoid during cranking. 12.25V > available to motor. Should be more than enough. > > 4. When I turn the key on the new starter it just > keeps clicking. The engine does not budge one bit. > The starter continues to click at about twice/second. > The old starter just clicked once and stopped. The > solenoid switch on the old starter remained closed the > whole time. > > So far my 1988 325 iS has been dead reliable. Now it > looks like it is following the example of the crappy > M5 and becoming unreliable. ANY help is appreciated. > > Neil Deshpande > http://www.neilwerke.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:19:11 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 valve noise Do them cold. Its the only way to get them all at the same temperature. When hot, the clearance opens up a bit. Use a bent coathanger wire in the hole in the cam adjuster to push it against the feeler gauge (use a bent gauge). Develop a consistent touch with the coathanger wire and tighten the adjusting nut. The gauge should pull out with some resistance. This is the final check of the clearance. All the gauges should pull out with the same force. Also turn the cam so the lobe is pointing away from the rocker pad. One other point, that tak tak you hear from inside might be an exhaust leak at the manifold. Does it get louder with an increase in throttle? Use a mechanics stethoscope (or a long screwdriver with the handle held to the ear) to listen along the valve cover with the engine running. You can pinpoint the source of the noise. Gary Derian > I have a few questions about some excessive valve noise in my '87 325i. > > I think it is too loud... or at least abnormal, and so does someone who has > been around more E30's than me. > > I have what sounds for all the world like one valve is louder than the > others. > > Inside the car, at idle, I get a tak..tak..tak noise. It doesn't get louder > with increasing engine rpm, just faster. > > Outside the car I can hear all the valves going tiky-tiky and the same tak > interspersed. > > Any ideas? > > I am hoping that it is as simple as a poorly adjusted valve. I am having a > heck of a time getting them adjusted right. I have gotten closest (I think) > by doing them hot, but I still think I must be doing something wrong, any > ideas? > > -- Joe > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:28:01 -0800 (PST) From: James Muskopf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Rusted E30 strut assembly--convert to 5-bolt For the front, you will also need the "steering arm" that bolts to the bottom of the strut housing. The regular E30 has the steering arm integrated into the bottom of the housing. For the rear, you may need to change out the CV axles. The 325i and M3 use the same CV axles, but I'm not sure about the 318M10/325/325e. To convert to 5-bolt rear hubs, you will need the 5-bolt hub that presses into the wheel bearing. To do the conversion to 5-bolt hubs, you will need: new wheel bearings Front and Rear M3 brake rotors Front and Rear M3 brake calipers Front and Rear. The entire M3 suspension/brake package will cost over $1000 used. I'd say just screw it and get a used housing for an E30. JamesM > Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2002 16:44:34 -0500 > From: "Luis Rueda" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] Re: Rusted E30 strut assembly > > Scott, > > Thanks for your response. In order to do this i would need the > strut housing & hub assembly from the E30 M3, anything else > aside from that? (is it the same for the rear?) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 09:42:31 -0800 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] OBC trouble Chris, Maybe just the illumination strip behind the display? - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:46:53 -0600 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Diminished Value Claims Marc, I haven't had any experience with these claims in Virginny, but have had two successfully filed here in Texas. There is no question that the car will never be worth the same after the crash as before, regardless of whether the repair is absolutely perfect. As soon as a potential buyer discovers the car was wrecked it's value drops in his mind since he can never be convinced the repair was perfect. There is an company here in Dallas that does these types of claims. They may be able to help you even though you're so far away. Of course adding GEICO to the mix won't make it any easier. Here's a link to their web page. Good Luck. http://www.directdv.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 12:15:55 -0600 From: "Christian Els" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 valve noise My car also has ridiculously loud valve clatter. I have tried setting the clearances 3-4 times to no avail. I have replaced the spark plugs and exhaust manifold gaskets hoping to catch a different source for the noise. Putting a mechanic's stethoscope to various parts of the engine while it idles, it seems the clatter is actually from the injectors themselves. I have run several bottles of Techron through the system in an effort to clear up some of the nice and while it has abated somewhat, it is still there. My next step is to swap in a known quiet set of injectors, then replace the o-rings to see what difference those ideas make. Stay tuned for an update Easter weekend if my parts ever come off backorder. Hope this helps. Christian Els 1991 325iX - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "bmw list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, 20 March, 2002 10:42 Subject: [uuc] E30 valve noise > I have a few questions about some excessive valve noise in my '87 325i. > > I think it is too loud... or at least abnormal, and so does someone who has > been around more E30's than me. > > I have what sounds for all the world like one valve is louder than the > others. > > Inside the car, at idle, I get a tak..tak..tak noise. It doesn't get louder > with increasing engine rpm, just faster. > > Outside the car I can hear all the valves going tiky-tiky and the same tak > interspersed. > > Any ideas? > > I am hoping that it is as simple as a poorly adjusted valve. I am having a > heck of a time getting them adjusted right. I have gotten closest (I think) > by doing them hot, but I still think I must be doing something wrong, any > ideas? > > -- Joe > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #4990 *************************** ________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | Camptown Automotive - http://www.camptownauto.com | Circle Tire Co. (used & classic BMW parts) e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Need Nokian Hakkapeliitta winter tires? 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