[uucdigest]         Sunday, January 26 2003         Volume 03 : Number 6056



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6055
       RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???
       RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???
       Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
       [uuc] Clamshell Compressors.
       Re:[uuc] Best Tool
       Re:[uuc] Best Tool
       RE: [uuc] RE: Best Tool - Spring Compressor
       [uuc] Seeking Ride/Handling Input for Friend's E39

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 14:58:10 -0600
From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6055

Thanks Ed,

That's the most interesting and the most plausible explanation I've heard, 
although I can't claim to hear any additional noise (then again, I'm 
probably not that perceptive :)

It's good to know that BMW is keeping it's priorities straight by plugging 
up those ducts (tongue more than slightly in cheek).

Scott

>From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: BMW Brake Ventilation
>
>Scott,
>
>I heard there was cabin perceivable (perceptible) noise in a crosswind,
>and they figured someone spending that much for a car would bring it in
>complaining . . . . . (tongue only slightly in cheek).
>
>Ed
>
>E28 M5
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 13:10:20 -0800
From: "Kelvin Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???

        Piston slap doesn't really have anything to do with lubrication.  It has
more to do with the wall clearances run between the piston and the block.
It's a common problem on motors with forged aluminum pistons since forged
aluminum typically has larger CTE's than cast aluminum so larger wall
clearances must often be run.  It goes away as the pistons heat up and
expand.  Increased lubrication won't help.  As long as it isn't too bad,
most of the time a little piston slap is harmless.
        The race motor on my DSM slaps at startup but more or less goes away as the
car heats up.

Kelvin Liu
Staff Engineer
Molecular Reflections
6350 Nancy Ridge Drive Suite 102
San Diego, CA 92121
www.molref.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of David
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:48 pm
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???
>
>
> Would it be possible that the extra oil in at start up would be splashed
> around more by the crank and might allow more oil to the bores for that
> first few seconds, especially on a v-8?  What I am thinking is
> that it might
> help lube up those skirts and cut wear with my clacking problem.  It is
> pretty bad until those pistons get warm.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mark Dadgar
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 11:32 PM
> To: BMW List
> Subject: Re: [uuc] -now Accusump???
>
>
> David at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Do Accusumps ever cause problems with too much oil in the sump?
> >
>
> No, as soon as the oil pressure rises above zero the Accusump starts to
> fill.  Filling is not instantaneous, but as long as you don't start your
> motor and immediately rev it to redline, you should be safe from oil
> foaming, etc.
>
> Also, if you opt for the electric valve version, the Accusump
> maintains idle
> pressure when you shut the car off.  So there's less oil in the sump at
> start-up.
>
> - Mark, put an Accusump in his old E30 M3
> --
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 17:35:18 -0500
From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???

Agreed.  GM's TSB reflects this same idea, saying that up to a minute and
half of noise is normal.  Mine usually takes up to four and a half minutes
at 30 degrees to stop clacking.  As soon as the water temperature reaches
approx 170-175 degrees on  a cold start, the sound stops.  Whether this is
enough to be a real problem is something I am trying to find out and work
out with GM.  My main concern is longevity and my investment in this truck.
I do know of instances where GM has changed out engines and rumors that bore
tolerances have been sloppy, other where engines with slap going 200,000
with no apparent problems.  It is a complex situation.

The pistons are not forged in this instance though, some form of
hypereutectic alloy.

Thanks to everyone for the input, especially since it is not BMW related.  I
look forward to any other info you folks decide to share.  Fortunately the
pistons in my ti are as quiet as a mouse...that roars:-)

David

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Kelvin Liu
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2003 4:10 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???


        Piston slap doesn't really have anything to do with lubrication.  It has
more to do with the wall clearances run between the piston and the block.
It's a common problem on motors with forged aluminum pistons since forged
aluminum typically has larger CTE's than cast aluminum so larger wall
clearances must often be run.  It goes away as the pistons heat up and
expand.  Increased lubrication won't help.  As long as it isn't too bad,
most of the time a little piston slap is harmless.
        The race motor on my DSM slaps at startup but more or less goes away as the
car heats up.

Kelvin Liu
Staff Engineer
Molecular Reflections
6350 Nancy Ridge Drive Suite 102
San Diego, CA 92121
www.molref.com
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of David
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 8:48 pm
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: RE: [uuc] -now Accusump???
>
>
> Would it be possible that the extra oil in at start up would be splashed
> around more by the crank and might allow more oil to the bores for that
> first few seconds, especially on a v-8?  What I am thinking is
> that it might
> help lube up those skirts and cut wear with my clacking problem.  It is
> pretty bad until those pistons get warm.
>
> David
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Mark Dadgar
> Sent: Friday, January 24, 2003 11:32 PM
> To: BMW List
> Subject: Re: [uuc] -now Accusump???
>
>
> David at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > Do Accusumps ever cause problems with too much oil in the sump?
> >
>
> No, as soon as the oil pressure rises above zero the Accusump starts to
> fill.  Filling is not instantaneous, but as long as you don't start your
> motor and immediately rev it to redline, you should be safe from oil
> foaming, etc.
>
> Also, if you opt for the electric valve version, the Accusump
> maintains idle
> pressure when you shut the car off.  So there's less oil in the sump at
> start-up.
>
> - Mark, put an Accusump in his old E30 M3
> --
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 21:20:29 -0500
From: "Mike Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

I've used the threaded rod type spring compressors on several different
strut eqipped cars. The threaded rods and hooks are very hefty and have
safety locking provisions on them. They are slow, but would seem to be very
safe. You can rent them at rental places or buy them for reasonable prices.
MikeG
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Jason Scott wrote:
>
> >Can anyone recommend a good, safe spring compressor?
> >
> >I've never used one before and really don't want to take
> >any chances.
> >Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 20:45:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Clamshell Compressors.

Ed:

Ah, I see why they are called clamshell now.  The ends
were indeed clamshell shaped.

I find the $40 Craftsman compressors quite good.  They
are threaded rods and have cast iron ends.  This is
the IMPORTANT part.  There are many compressors there
with beaked/hooked cast ends.  The ones I am talking
about are NOT like that.  They are blocks with a
little curved channel cut in them that completely
nests the spring.  The channel has a large contact
area with the spring and the compressors do not slide
around on the spring (_dangerous_!).  $40.

AutoZone will rent these for free.

Highly recommended.

Neil Deshpande

***
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:52:01 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

I bought a MAC tools one from Duane Collie used for
$75. It is the 
scissors type (also called clamshell). It works as
Neil described, but 
with a one inch wrench rather than a crank.

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:11:38 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:[uuc] Best Tool

For the clamshell type, Harbor Freight has this one - www.harborfreight.com,
search for item number 43753. 40 bucks. At least this will give you a great
picture of what he's talking about.

I have the Snap-on version of the same thing, picked it up for $40 at a used
tool store. This is the best design for struts off-the-car, (other than the
hang-on-the-wall type you'll see at dealers). Too big to use for anything on
the car, though.

Dave Swingle

> Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 09:30:28 -0600
> From: Jason Scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
>
> Can anyone recommend a good, safe spring compressor?
>
> I've never used one before and really don't want to take
> any chances.
> Thanks.
>
> - - Jason
> '86 325e
>
> > Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 20:09:34 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
> >
> > Kevin:
> >
> > Though I never got to use it, the best strut
> > compressor I saw was at Mike Lawrence's house.  It was
> > a screw much like the E30 jack, but with two plates
> > that locked into the strut on either end.

> Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:52:01 -0500
> From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
>
> I bought a MAC tools one from Duane Collie used for $75. It is the
> scissors type (also called clamshell). It works as Neil described, but
> with a one inch wrench rather than a crank.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 09:11:38 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:[uuc] Best Tool

For the clamshell type, Harbor Freight has this one - www.harborfreight.com,
search for item number 43753. 40 bucks. At least this will give you a great
picture of what he's talking about.

I have the Snap-on version of the same thing, picked it up for $40 at a used
tool store. This is the best design for struts off-the-car, (other than the
hang-on-the-wall type you'll see at dealers). Too big to use for anything on
the car, though.

Dave Swingle

> Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 09:30:28 -0600
> From: Jason Scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
>
> Can anyone recommend a good, safe spring compressor?
>
> I've never used one before and really don't want to take
> any chances.
> Thanks.
>
> - - Jason
> '86 325e
>
> > Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 20:09:34 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
> >
> > Kevin:
> >
> > Though I never got to use it, the best strut
> > compressor I saw was at Mike Lawrence's house.  It was
> > a screw much like the E30 jack, but with two plates
> > that locked into the strut on either end.

> Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2003 10:52:01 -0500
> From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [uuc] RE: Best Tool
>
> I bought a MAC tools one from Duane Collie used for $75. It is the
> scissors type (also called clamshell). It works as Neil described, but
> with a one inch wrench rather than a crank.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:32:20 -0800
From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Best Tool - Spring Compressor

Jason -

Have a look at Snap-on tool number YA629 (About $50).  MAC tool number
MS629A is similar (about $50).  The MAC bench mounted compressor is tool
number SSC70 - it would, no doubt, be easier to operate, which might
contribute to safety.  Or if you have an air compressor and some bucks,
buy a bench-mounted, air actuated compressor - the one I've used is
similar to the MAC SSC70 but more rugged.  Sorry, I don't have a make or
model.

Whichever compressor you use, keep your body out of direct alignment
with the axis of the compressed spring.  A shop I sometimes work in had
one get away.  It hit a roof beam 40 feet up with enough force to leave
quite a dent in the wood.

Brant

<<<<<<From: Jason Scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Best Tool

Can anyone recommend a good, safe spring compressor?
. . . . .- - Jason>>>>>>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 10:58:48 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Seeking Ride/Handling Input for Friend's E39

Hi group, a friend is considering a '97 E39 528i 5 speed as a replacement
for a '98 528i Sport Package 5 speed which was, unfortunately, totalled when
he hit black ice and spun into a ditch.  (The roof was flattened pretty well
on the passenger side.  He climbed out the window without a scratch.
Dontcha just love BMW's structural integrity!)

The replacement car does not have the Sport Package, but is clean and has
low miles.  He's thinking that he would put on some Eibach Pro Kit springs
and Bilstein shocks/struts to get back closer to the Sport Package ride and
handling he had in the previous car.  He has the Eibachs on his E30
convertible and likes them.  The replacement car already has 17 inch wheels.

Any input would be appreciated and will be passed on.

TIA,

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6056
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