[uucdigest] Saturday, February 1 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6079
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] M3 vs 325 Rear Subframe Re: [uuc] Quick release front bumper cover - E36 [uuc] FW: Shuttle DOWN!!!! DAMN!!! [uuc] Re: Cage Pics [uuc] Remote radar install [uuc] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Removal [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid RE: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid RE: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid [uuc] Re: Fuerst Choice Auto Repair (was Old Laing's Eye) Re: [uuc] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Removal Re: [uuc] Re: Fuerst Choice Auto Repair (was Old Laing's Eye) [uuc] '00 M Roadster Questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 06:29:04 -0500 From: "Christian Bernhardt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] M3 vs 325 Rear Subframe I will be replacing the bushings in the rear subframe as part of the evolving plan to convert my 325 into a track only car. Are there any important differences in the suspension geometry of the M3 rear subframe member when compared to my stock 325 that would impact the handling of my car? If so, it might make more sense to replace the rear subframe now then to pay for the labor another time. FYI -- I expect this car to run in the prepared class when I make the plunge to CR. I currently have the TC Kline aluminum rear trailing arm with a mono-ball joint and a mono-ball rear trailing arm bushing. Thanks, Chris 95 325is w/150K street miles and 4K track miles ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 09:10:34 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Quick release front bumper cover - E36 Cut the nose off the bumper shocks and weld hood pins to them? - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> > Anyone familiar with the method and required parts to make a front bumper "quick release"? My guess is either some of the quarter-turn Zeus fasteners, or something akin to a hood pin, but I have no clue of the details to get it done. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 07:09:48 -0800 From: donna seeley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] FW: Shuttle DOWN!!!! DAMN!!! As of 7am pacific time, TV coverage is ahead of the online story... Apparently the shuttle Columbia broke up over Texas on reentry. > >> Turn on CNN folks. Video of the shuttle breaking up on entry! >> DAMN!!!! > > Here's a link to the CNN story: > <http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/space/02/01/shuttle.landing.ap/index.html> > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 11:14:15 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: Cage Pics on 2/1/03 12:44 AM, "Neil N." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > To any and all interested in E36 lightweight body panels, spoilers, etc., here > is the link to the pics as promised. > > http://photos.yahoo.com/triplen325 > > Click on the Car Pics directory, then on ABS Motorsport. > > For those who have followed the cage selection saga, there are also pics there > of three cages in aptly named folders (also under Car Pics) - S-Tech > Motorsports, Safety Devices and Mark McMahon, formerly (kind of) of TC Kline > (E30). Look at how tightly Mark's cage fits to the body of the car. > Unbelievable. The tight fit seems to be characteristic of McMahon's work, and was one of the reasons I wanted one of his for my car, a daily driver. For a bolt-in roll bar like mine it does make installation something of a challenge when keeping the stock interior, but the end result is well worth it. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 11:35:50 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Remote radar install Vinh asked: Would anyone be able to recommend a shop in the Massachusetts area (Boston and surroundings) Rich's CarTunes in Watertown is a good shop, but very expensive. If you are heading to Rich's on Arsenal, from the river, look for another car stereo shop on the right in the first group of shops, at the first intersection. Cannot recall the name, but they did good work at half of Rich's price. Let me know if you want more info. Jon __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 01:38:26 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Removal Rear Trailing Arm Removal: Any trick tips to drop the front of the rear lower control arm from the mounting cup without unbolting the mounting cup from the floor? This is on an E36. The Chilton manual doesn't address this topic. If it is necessary to unbolt the mounting cup from the floor, is there a way to R&r it without losing the wheel alignment? Maybe some of you who realign their rear toe onsite before and after an autocross or track day might have some tips about this ? What is the torque spec on those three bolts? I would rather not lose the wheel alignment which was recently set. Thanks in advance. 'jk ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:06:23 -0500 From: "Gaudio, Stefano" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid I believe that my last mechanic when flushing the brakes used DOT 5 Fluid. First of all, does anyone know if there are 2 types of DOT 5 one silicone the other NON-silicone based? >From a brief search on the Internet it seems that as long as DOT 5 silicone based was not mixed w DOT 4 or 3 it's ok. Unfortunately, it seems that just flushing the brakes is not enough. Anyone has any ideas comments? How can I check what kind of DOT fluid I have in my system? If it is DOT 5 silicone based what do you suggest to do? Just flush it a couple of times w DOT 4? Thx in advance. Stefano ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 18:23:53 -0500 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid I am sure of one thing, if you have ABS, you have a problem! ABS does not like two things about DOT 5 Silicone fluid: 1) It is too compressible and causes problems, including a spongee pedal 2) It does not lubricate the ABS pump and valves properly...causes severe problems and can destroy the system. David - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Gaudio, Stefano Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 6:06 PM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid I believe that my last mechanic when flushing the brakes used DOT 5 Fluid. First of all, does anyone know if there are 2 types of DOT 5 one silicone the other NON-silicone based? >From a brief search on the Internet it seems that as long as DOT 5 silicone based was not mixed w DOT 4 or 3 it's ok. Unfortunately, it seems that just flushing the brakes is not enough. Anyone has any ideas comments? How can I check what kind of DOT fluid I have in my system? If it is DOT 5 silicone based what do you suggest to do? Just flush it a couple of times w DOT 4? Thx in advance. Stefano ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 18:48:34 -0500 From: Bill Matthews <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid Stefano, If your mechanic used DOT 5.1 it is non silicone. Bill Matthews Hockessin DE 00 M Geeze some Volvos other cars > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Gaudio, Stefano > Sent: Saturday, February 01, 2003 6:06 PM > To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' > Subject: [uuc] DOT 5 Braking Fluid > > > I believe that my last mechanic when flushing the brakes used DOT 5 Fluid. > First of all, does anyone know if there are 2 types of DOT 5 one silicone > the other NON-silicone based? > From a brief search on the Internet it seems that as long as DOT > 5 silicone > based was not mixed w DOT 4 or 3 it's ok. > Unfortunately, it seems that just flushing the brakes is not enough. > Anyone has any ideas comments? > How can I check what kind of DOT fluid I have in my system? > If it is DOT 5 silicone based what do you suggest to do? > Just flush it a couple of times w DOT 4? > > Thx in advance. > > Stefano > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 19:17:02 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Fuerst Choice Auto Repair (was Old Laing's Eye) Neil asks: > Jim: > > Good News! Does his shop have a WWW site? Where is > it? > > Neil Deshpande Well, let's just say he hasn't reached that level of 'profitability' yet. More like just getting started, although he has a shop and customers, I don't think he has anyone werking besides himself. He did just finish a Dodge Stealth head job, and mentioned the parts were actually pricey (his text follows) BTW - just got the dodge stealth timing belt/water pump/radiator job done. Saved the dude about $2,000 from a dealer "It needs head gaskets" job. pretty nice ride also. It has active suspension (broken, stuck in sport mode) that you need an analog volt meter to read the codes for it. 1992 WTF? Same goes for the ABS. I told him I'd copy the shop manual pages (good 'ol boys from the Dodge dealer lent it to me!!) and fix that someday for him after I locate a voltmeter with a needle, went out with vinyl I think.... Says it's been broke for 2 years now. FYI - they recommend changing that belt every 60K and he went 108. It was loose but no clashing, lucky. Parts were: Belt $80, water pump $40, tensioner $40 (eccentric cam), tensioner $60 (automatic piston - very cool idea). So I feel better with my car now... (/1st_text) He also inquired about a parts supplier for BMW parts, I would guess the WorldPAC(?)or whatever alloembmwparts.com is. Maybe Jack$$ can send him some names. Smiller had asked me when 1st had contacted me a few months ago about his "Business Plan" I have a feeling it was: Step 1) Open Shop. Step 2) ??. Step 3) Profit! He is resourceful though, and I wish him all the luck in the world. I hope to throw some stuff his way, but he is about a 4 hour ride from me. I like the idea of he and I BC'ing the car on a weekend : ) Cheers, Jim Evo Clown ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 Feb 2003 19:44:06 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Removal You have no choice. Even if you get the nut off the bolt, the bolt is too long to get out without dropping the hat. Best you can do is draw a line around the hat, or use spray paint, it gives a much more accurate result, and try to get the hat back in the same place. You won't be able to do it accurately though. Best to just go get another wheel alignment when you're done, it's cheaper than tyres. - ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support - ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member - ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Rear Trailing Arm Removal: > Any trick tips to drop the front of the rear lower control arm from > the mounting cup without unbolting the mounting cup from the floor? > This is on an E36. > If it is necessary to unbolt the mounting cup from the floor, is > there a way to R&r it without losing the wheel alignment? Maybe some of > you who realign their rear toe onsite before and after an autocross or > track day might have some tips about this ? What is the torque spec on > those three bolts? > I would rather not lose the wheel alignment which was recently set. > Thanks in advance. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 20:30:22 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Fuerst Choice Auto Repair (was Old Laing's Eye) Go Underpants Gnomes! ;-) - -NJay occasionally amused by South Park... [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Smiller had asked me when 1st had contacted me a few months ago about his "Business >Plan" I have a feeling it was: > > Step 1) Open Shop. > Step 2) ??. > Step 3) Profit! > > Cheers, > Jim > Evo Clown ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 19:49:30 -0600 From: Jay Quinn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] '00 M Roadster Questions Is it true that the Z3 and M roadsters never had Zeon lights available? As well as it a true statement that there was no 6 speed gear box? Is there a computer available, like the one that tells you fuel consumption, distance, etc... I could live w/o it, just one less electronic component to fail, and doesn't help the performance of the car. I learned that only the '01 model M Roadster has/had a larger more powerful eninge, perhaps an optional eninge. Is this a true statement, and if so, whats hte engine size and HP of that larger engine engine/option? I test drove a '99 M Roadster, 30K miles, today and was quite impressed, then I test drove an '00 M Roadster with 30K miles and was really even more impressed with that one. THe '99 had a little more wear on the interior than I cared for. I noticed that, even thoguh the instumentation is a little sparce, a true roadster, there were a few items in the console that the '99 had blanking caps over that the '00 had. What are some of the options on that car, or should I say, the most common and desirable options. I would think that it's nota big selection. The power that these cars have struck me as scary fast at first, a real neck snapper. I have been bitten. Also, I've noticed that the '00 had a electric compressor in the trunk, the '99 didn't, is this standard, and the '99's was missing? What is the most common and best exhaust system that people liek to upgrade it to? As this seems to be a standard thing to do w/ and M Roadster. What are the other most common upgrades, like chips, air cleaner, mass air flow, etc.... that people also like to do to the, say, '00 M Roadster? What are the name brands of those components, and the raneg of price tag one could expect to pay? Also, what kind of realistic HP/Torge can one expect to wrench out of one of these 3.2L engines? Thanks, Jay mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6079 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | UUC Motorwerks . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________
