[uucdigest]       Wednesday, February 19 2003       Volume 03 : Number 6122



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] Who Wanted Brett on Junkyard Wars?
       [uuc] e30 325is with a Chevy 454
       Re: [uuc] How do you test an ABS sensor on an e28?
       [uuc] Re: Who Wanted Brett on Junkyard Wars?
       [uuc] Source Need for Brake Rotors and Pad for (e34 540)
       Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing 
issue
       [uuc] <E28> Do not buy Fuel Pressure Regulators from WorldPac or Subsidiarys 
       [uuc] <E28> Door adjustment
       [uuc] <E28> Fuel Pressure Ratings. 535i M30 engine.. Stumbling cured
       Re: [uuc] Source Need for Brake Rotors and Pad for (e34 540)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 10:35:11 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Who Wanted Brett on Junkyard Wars?

From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> So now that we have a connection, just how badly do we want Brett on the
> show?  Seems like we could ask my friend's wife to pull a few strings with
> her cousin, no?

Brett complains >
> And I find the time for this, umm, where?

Ahhh, stop your whining you wanker.  I have a call into Discovery and Jesse James to 
get you on Monster Garage too.  Winners get a very nice Mac tool box full of tools.  I 
have yet to see a team lose and not walk away with the tools and I have seen your 
garage before....I know that your tools have a way of occasionally disappearing so 
another set in reserve would never be a bad thing.

Later,

Rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 10:08:30 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] e30 325is with a Chevy 454

Rob says >
> Key-ryst, Evan, haven't you heard of problems with fiberglass changing shape
> when it cures?  Cadillac Converters does okay but not great work.  Whaddya
> want for $6K including paint?

Wow, $6k including paint.  That is quite a deal.  God forbid if I ever need some work 
on my cars done, I'll have to look up "Cadillac Converters".  If I was going to all 
that trouble though as your conversion did, I would have tried to find a way to 
eliminate that pesky fuel filler door.  Don't they call this "frenching".  Most be a 
slang term akin to 'disappearing' or 'running away' or something like that.

> This thing is genuine.  I've driven it around with one arm out the window
> and the other wrist through the steering wheel.  It did break down on me, so
> I pressed the OnStar button and got help right away.

Were you wearing a large gold chain on that wrist? If you were, be careful not to 
scratch the paint.  Otherwise, you'll be heading back to that bodyshop again.

Does the car have hydraulics?

Later,

Rich

95 M3 - no tail fins here....yet....but seriously want to upgrade to UUC's new 
lightweight flywheel and M5 clutch package!
90 325is

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:24:48 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] How do you test an ABS sensor on an e28?

You can see a bad problem with a good multimeter, set to Hz.  Watch for a
glitch, or no reading.

If you get a good Hz signal on the multimeter, and you still suspect the
sensor, you'll want to watch the square wave on a scope to confirm it's
condition.

The multimeter is only so good in this respect, and will pick up an open, or
real bad signal, but won't be good enough to pick up any noise, or other minor
problems that may be causing an issue for the control unit.


- -----------------------------------------------------
BMW Special Tool Rentals
Pay per incident tech support
- -----------------------------------------------------
Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> One of my sensors went south I believe (who can blame em).  What kind of
signal
> do these sensors output, and can I check it with a good multimeter, or do I
> need a scope?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:52:18 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: Who Wanted Brett on Junkyard Wars?

on 2/19/03 1:18 PM, "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I have seen (Brett's) garage before....I know that your tools have a way of
> occasionally disappearing

Jeez Rich, if you'd just stop stuffing them in your pockets  ;)

Neil
96 M3

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:55:55 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Source Need for Brake Rotors and Pad for (e34 540)

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:00:35 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E28> Found the Culprit it seems.. Re Stalling Rough Idle Ongoing 
issue

Ron, a lean condition will not cause the exhaust to overheat, but a
misfiring engine will feed the catalyst with fuel and oxygen and that will
make it overheat.

Your fuel pressure regulator seems to be working properly, albeit at too low
a pressure.

Gary Derian


> Hi All,
>
> I have written a few posts about my 85 535i, and rough idle, loss of
power,
> and issues related to it, when driving back from Florida to Toronto.
>
> Well yesterday it all came to a head.  I was on my way to a meeting in the
> morning, and the car started to idle roughly, and would lose power unless
I
> had the gas pedal pushed all the way down.  While driving, the car would
> surge up to 5000 rpm, the tires would spin and the car would start to move
> normally, and then as soon as the rpms would settle down, the engine would
> stumble, almost stall, and repeat the cycle again.  I was driving down the
> road, with my 4 ways looking like someone that doenst know how to drive
> standard.  Then all of a sudden I lost brake pedal pressure, and had no
> brakes, but they came back, and the car started to behave properly. .
Then
> someone in a car beside me started honking for me to pull over, when I
> rolled my window down, they told me I had a fire under the car.  I quickly
> pulled over and looked underneath, and saw some flames, and put them out
> with my fire extinguisher I keep behind my seat.  After I looked at where
> the fire was, I noticed it was a rubber hangar from the exhaust system.  I
> parked the car, jumped in a cab and went to the meeting.  While at the
> meeting I had the car towed over to a mechanic that I know.  I left the
> meeting and borrowed a freinds car (beauty 99 mercedes E320) and drove
over
> to the mechanics, just as the car was being pulled in.  They put the car
on
> the hoist, and lifted it up, and we inspected the underside, and noticed
> that the hanger that caught on fire was right near the gas/brake lines, on
> the drivers side of the car, under the rear seat.  That made us realize
that
> the fire had boiled the brake fluid, causing the brakes to go, so we bled
> the brakes, and they were back to normal.  Then we started to look into
why
> the exhaust got hot enough to cause the hangar to catch on fire.  It was
> most likely a lean condition in the engine.  So we popped the hood and
> started the car, and it ran fine, and then started to stumble for a brief
> amount, and then evened out.  I explained that I had changed the ICV, and
> the FPR due to past problems similar to this problem..  We then hooked up
a
> feul pressure guage to the input feul line, and started the car.  It
showed
> that the car was running with 30 PSI.  Then thier Mitchell computer
program
> for the the proper specs, and found that it should be running at 42 psi,
> with specific volume that I cant remember.  We went back to the car.  and
> checked the guage again.  It was still at 30 psi and the engine was
running
> fine.  My Mechanic friend advised me that the car wasnt getting enough
feul,
> and was therefore running lean, which was heating up the exhaust, which in
> turn was causing the feul in the same spot to boil, and causing cavitation
> in the feul line, which was causing the stumbling issues.  The only issue
> was why the PSI was at 30 instead of 42.  We started to think feul pump,
> clogged filter.  The filter medium is so big, that we doubted it was the
> culprit, so the next possibility was the pump.  Then he decided to call
> another BMW mechanic, to talk to him on the phone and explained the
> situation, and he said to try the Feul Pressure Regulator.  (the one I had
> replaced)   So we went over and used a pair of vice grips to pinch the
> bigger line that comes out of the FPR and it made the feul pressure guage
> jump to 115 PSI.  It pointed right to the FPR as faulty.  the next thing
was
> to remove the small vacuum line from the top of the FPR, and when we did
the
> pressure came up to 40 PSI.  So based on his explanation it is the FPR,
its
> not opening operating prolerly possibly due to a ruptured inner diaphragm,
> or maybe even the wrong calibration.  Which caused the whole loop problem.
> car ran fine cold, but when hot, due to lean condition, it would heat up
the
> exhaust, that would boil the feul line, and cause cavitation, and as soon
as
> the car would cool it would go away.  makes sense since the condition only
> happened when I was on a long drive, or stuck in traffic doing the stop
and
> go.
>
> So now I have to go the dealer and get another FPR $170 CAD, or $110.00
USD,
> and I have a faulty one that I ordered from thepartsbin.com, that almost
> burned my car to the ground.  Hopefully they will refund my money, and if
> they don;t I will reverse the charges on my Credit Card bill.  I guess the
> warnings regarding getting parts directly to the dealer should sometimes
be
> given creedence, especially regarding feul injection parts.  The faulty
one
> was made by bosch and all, and just to save a couple of bucks, I ordered
it
> from an online company, which I understand gets thier parts from World
Pac.
>
> So off to the dealer to get the new FPR.... Then on tuesday I change my
feul
> filter just to be on the safe side.  (too cold and snowy to do it here, so
> its getting done at my mechanic friends, along with a valve adjustment)
>
> Cheers
> Ron J
> 85 535i
> 73 911s 2.7
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:07:45 -0500
From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Do not buy Fuel Pressure Regulators from WorldPac or Subsidiarys 

Hi All,

I just returned from the Dealer with my new BMW fuel pressure regulator.  I
changed it out for the "New" one from thepartsbin.com, apparently supplied
by worldpac warehouse, who also supplies trolhatten.com, and a few other
websites..   The one I got from them is in fact a bosch product, and fits
right onto the feul rail on the 535i engine (M30) however , when I pulled it
off to replace it with the one from the dealer, I noticed it was rated at
2.5 BAR.  and the one from the dealer is rated at 3.0 BAR, which means that
the warehouse is selling miscalibrated fuel pressure regulators for E28 535i
engines.  So if your shopping around, don't buy one from them. I suspect
they got a bunch somewhere on surplus from Bosch that were mismade, or
belong on another engine, and decided that the 0.5 difference was not enough
of a difference.

Well my situation proved it.  They cause problems,. almost disastrous ones
in fact.  Aside from that who knows what kind of damage can be done from an
engine running lean.

Cheers
Ron J
85 535i with proper fuel pressure now
73 911s 2.7 (waiting in the garage for paint and warm weather)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:15:10 -0600
From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Door adjustment

Hi all,
I have been trying to get the doors adjusted on my 88 M5 and have been
struggling.  In seem to get them so loose that I have wind noise or so
tight they must be slammed.  Seals are in good shape.  Anyone have any
tricks for finding the happy medium?
Thanks!
Paul Craven
88 M5 (slammed or whistling)
87 325ic (hibernating 2-3 more weeks)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 14:20:56 -0500
From: "Ron J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E28> Fuel Pressure Ratings. 535i M30 engine.. Stumbling cured

Hi All,

I found a site that does conversions from PSI to BAR. and indeed found out
that a fuel pressure regulator calibrated at 2.5 bar is running at 32 psi
and a fuel pressure regulator calibrated at 3.0 bar is running at 43.5 psi.

So that would definately confirm that the FPR that I installed in my car to
replace the original old faulty one, was in fact the culprit for my
stumbling problems.  Car ran lean due to incorrect PSI/BAR rating, heated
the exhaust up too high, created unneccesary heat within the vicinty of the
feul lines near back seat of drivers side, caused fuel to boil/expand,
causing cavitation in the fuel system, and therefore causing the engine to
stumble.

Now all I have to get done just for safety sake, is change my fuel filter,
and have the resonator in my custom exhaust system moved away from the feul
lines, or have a heat shield put in between them, to ensure that no extra
heat gets to the system and causes me trouble.

Lesson I learned, saving a few bucks on the FPR almost cost me the entire
car, and almost lead me to replace a good fuel pump, in tank and out of
tank, as well as a cold start valve to try and solve the problem..

Cheers
Ron J
85 535i
73 911s 2.7

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 Feb 2003 13:21:37 -0600
From: "Eric ///M Foster" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Source Need for Brake Rotors and Pad for (e34 540)

Try Bimmerworld for all your brake needs <grin>.

www.bimmerworld.com or  (540) 639-9648 or [EMAIL PROTECTED]

They have nothing but quality gear, at some of the lowest prices, and will
work with you to determine the best setup for your car based on your driving
habits (i.e purely stock, upgraded pads for light track duty, whatever).

Eric M. Foster
http://performify.com
http://bmw.jedinite.com

(re-sent due to email glitch, sorry if this shows up twice)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2003 12:55 PM
Subject: [uuc] Source Need for Brake Rotors and Pad for (e34 540)

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6122
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