[uucdigest]          Monday, March 24 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6239



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] <E36> Child Seat Tether Mount?
       RE: [uuc] Strange Fault Code <E36>
       [uuc] Wheel size suggestions
       Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions
       [uuc] E-36: replacing front control arms
       [uuc] MArk D's chip vs. everybody's
       [uuc] H*lp  e34 525iA cooling system issues (continued)
       [uuc] Strange engine/trans sound
       [uuc] E30 Tail-light needed
       [uuc] Re:  '87 325is control arms
       Re: [uuc] E30 Tail-light needed
       Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips
       [uuc] <E46> radio question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 06:18:16 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E36> Child Seat Tether Mount?

The threaded hole you see is for the restraint.  There are two others also.

To access, simply shove a screw driver up through the parcel shelf from
inside the trunk, then install the kit that Ed McVaugh posted part numbers
for.


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BMW Special Tool Rentals
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Brett Anderson
KMS
(440) 338 1650
www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sumant Jayaraman
> Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 7:50 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [uuc] <E36> Child Seat Tether Mount?
>
>
> Greetings Gruppe,
>
> I was wondering if any one on this board has managed to find a good
> attachment point for a tether associated with a forward facing child seat.
> This tether attaches to the top of the child-seat back and is supposed to
> keep it from wanting to tumble forward in a 'rapid deceleration' scenario.
>
> I found an unused boss, with threaded hole, just below the parcel
> shelf and
> behind the rear bulkhead from inside the trunk, but ofcourse no obvious
> opening in the parcel shelf. I wonder whether this boss is an
> appropriate/intended mounting point. I am aware that BMW does not
> sell a kit
> for the E36 (at least here in the US of A).
>
> Thanks for any input.
>
> Sumant
>
> E36s
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 06:18:18 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Strange Fault Code <E36>

The secondary air injection pump or check valve has failed.  The o2 sensors
are not "seeing" the air input from the pump.


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BMW Special Tool Rentals
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Brett Anderson
KMS
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www.koalamotorsport.com

OSS committee member


> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Does anyone out there know what the following fault codes mean?  It is a
> readout of my 1996 328i with the "check engine" light on.  I am using a
> Peake R5/fcx code/reset tool.
> They are on chart 2 of the manual, errors F5 and F6:
> Code F5:  Secondary air system flow too low, Cyl #1-3
> Code F6:  Secondary air system flow too low, Cyl #4-6
> What sensor is this reading?  I checked the air filter just to see if it
> was something obvious, and it was fine.  The car seems to drive fine,
> with no noticeable loss of power.  Any suggestions

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:51:35 -0500
From: Craig Cotton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions

I have a 95 e38 740i with the stock 16" wheels that came with the car.
I want to upgrade the wheels as they are showing their age.
My question is whether to go with the same size all around or to go with a
staggered set? 
Any suggestions or comments on drivability would be appreciated?
Thanks
Craig Cotton
95 740i 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 09:11:10 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Wheel size suggestions

For cruising around in a big 7 series, the same size all around has
advantages of rotation and fitment of a spare.  Staggered sizes are good for
more agressive setups in high power to weight cars and will have no
advantage for a stock setup 740i.

Gary Derian


> I have a 95 e38 740i with the stock 16" wheels that came with the car.
> I want to upgrade the wheels as they are showing their age.
> My question is whether to go with the same size all around or to go with a
> staggered set?
> Any suggestions or comments on drivability would be appreciated?
> Thanks
> Craig Cotton
> 95 740i
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 09:34:55 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] E-36: replacing front control arms

Well I need to replace the front lower control arms on the car.  Bentley
make it look easy (I've done enough suspension work to not think it's that
easy).  When I took a peek under the car I noticed two things that could be
trouble.  

The outer ball joint nut looks difficult to remove as there is not a lot of
room to work.  Is it better/easier to remove the strut first and then
separate the ball joint?  Will a pickle fork do the job?

The center ball joint.  Looks like you can't get in there will an impact
socket.  Do you have to use a wrench to remove this?  Again, will a pickle
fork be ok to separate this joint also?

I do have access to a press and will replace the rubber bushings.  I was
thinking of going to the Power Flex bushings (car is a daily driver in the
North East that sees about six track days a year), any comments on these?
Advice for removing and replacing them?

Thanks for any/all help.

Marc '95 325is

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:09:34 -0800
From: "Tim Ng" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] MArk D's chip vs. everybody's

Hi all, when was the last year that the ETA engines were built, 1988?  Did
Mark D just dynoed his chip with the i cams? My point is that all
commerical chips have been out of date for many years now. UNtil Mark came
along and did a custom chip with the i cam. The last version of the JC chip
for the M3 came out in 1992 or 3. So until someone else decides to burn a
custom chip and mass market that. The old chip will always not be Optimize
for your modifications.

Tim Ng
95 E36 M3 BzznM3
92 E30 325ic M-tech convetible 
91 E30 M3 street car
88 E30 M3 Track car
93 Chevy Blazer 2 dr. tow vehicle

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:10:17 -0500
From: "Beaudette, Roland" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] H*lp  e34 525iA cooling system issues (continued)

I've replaced the radiator following the expansion tank explosion, but the
car behaves strangely.  On initial fill-up the system took 2 gallons of
coolant with car on slight incline (nose higher than tail).  Ran car until
temperature needle went to 12 o'clock.  Open thermostat housing bleed screw-
lots of steam.  Nothing from the radiator bleed screw.  I shut off the car
periodically to keep the needle at no more than 1 o'clock.  Plenty of steam.
Finally got a gush of coolant from the thermostat housing bleed screw.
Still nothing from radiator bleed screw.

Got a few questions:

With the needle at 12 o'clock and coolant flowing from the thermostat bleed
screw, the fan would come to a dead stop with a piece of cardboard.  Bad fan
clutch right?

Car overheated prior to the expansion tank burst (to what extent I don't
know).  Replace thermostat (I heard overheating can kill the T-stat)?

Although the upper radiator hose gets very hot, it is not very soft as if
there is very little pressure.  I first attributed this to all the steam.
But is was the same even with coolant gushing.  Is this normal?  New water
pump?

It seems as if the fan resistor for low speed operation is shot.  There is
power to the relay, I can hear the relay click and jumpering the wires at
the sensor gives only high speed operation.  How does one access the
auxiliary fan and is the resistor a replacement item?

The car never delivered heat to the passenger compartment with the heat set
to max.  Heater valve?

Roland- getting a little hot myself

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 08:48:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Michael Turgeon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Strange engine/trans sound

Gruppe:

I finally got the rebuilt 2.5 motor back in the race
car.  It fired up on the second try and settled down
to idle rather easily.

One Q:

when sitting at idle I hear a whirring sound that is
linked to rpms and goes away when I puch in the clutch
pedal.  I make no changes to the trans, clutch fork,
throw out bearing, pressure plate or clutch disc.  Any
ideas what could be making that sound and will a three
day event this weekend be OK?

TIA,

Mike
#418 JP
#18 ITS


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 11:29:24 -0600
From: Robert Phelan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] E30 Tail-light needed

Some $(%*^& hit my E30 in a parking lot back in December.  Now that 
all the insurance stuff is straightened out, I need to track down a 
driver's side tail-light for an 89 325is.  Anybody have one stuck 
back in the garage?  (Note, I believe the 88-91/92 tail lights are 
different from those prior to those dates, so I'll need one from that 
range.   Someone correct me on the dates if I'm wrong please.)

Thanks,
Robert


- -- 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 09:42:58 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  '87 325is control arms

Drew, surprisingly enough, Double 02 Salvage in Hayward  (510-782-2002, no
affiliation)  has fairly competitive  prices for new BMW parts - better
than the dealers, certainly.  I'd recommend the factory offset M3 LCA
bushings - I've had them in 2 E30s (first one, then the other) since 1993
with no problems.  Bought them at Double 02.  Delrin is fine for dedicated
track or autocross cars.  Just my 02 cents worth.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA

>Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 11:40:29 -0800 (PST)
>From: Drew Sheppard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [uuc] '87 325is control arms
>
>Hello group,
>
>I need control arms for an '87 325is.  Can people recommend parts
>sources they use? (shipping is usually much less than the bay area
>dealer mark up) If you have these parts -new- feel free to send me
>an email directly to [EMAIL PROTECTED] and include an estimate
>of ground/3 day shipping.  I would like to have them by the end of
>the week.
>
>Also I heard that while I am doing this I should use delrin offset
>bushings.  Anyone have sources or thoughts on this?
>
>Thanks, Drew

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 12:54:21 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] E30 Tail-light needed

you should be able to find one on eBay for less than $30 if no one has
one to give you.


Ben

Robert Phelan wrote:

> Some $(%*^& hit my E30 in a parking lot back in December.  Now that
> all the insurance stuff is straightened out, I need to track down a
> driver's side tail-light for an 89 325is.  Anybody have one stuck
> back in the garage?  (Note, I believe the 88-91/92 tail lights are
> different from those prior to those dates, so I'll need one from that
> range.   Someone correct me on the dates if I'm wrong please.)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:31:30 -0500
From: "mike" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] My comparison between Jim C, Mark D'Sylva, and Dinan chips

Brad and others,

Seat of the pants comparisons can be tough, at best, at being fair.
How bout some in gear measurements etc.

For example, and I have seen this many times.   Take a Dinan chip for
example, in several cases, people have noticed the 'big improvement' that
kicks in around 3500rpm, the improvement in power etc only to be shown a
dyno of the same car and the resulting nil improvement in HP.

I personally believe it is hard for the normal Joe to feel 10hp difference
etc unless you are doing the comparison side by side.   Since 10hp equates
about half a car length at 60mph, think you can tell that difference?

Also, say if JC or whoever makes a very smooth torque curve vs a peaky one
but lower curve, the peaky will always be picked as the most powerful
between the two since it gives a noticeable difference in feel, but yet is
not the best.

So to be fair, in doing comparisons especially with a write up like that,
just take the time to do some real constructive comparisons, it would not
take 30mins of your time to just do some simple accel measurements which
then turns your comparison into a truly useful comparison for the many folks
with E-30s vs "well this guys opinion is----"

Not a slam, but would love to see factual comparisons, as I know I have made
mods and would have bet $1000 that the car was faster only to do a
comparison to learn it was not.

Mike
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Couvillon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Boys and Girls,
>
> Forgive me for spamming several lists at once, but I
> felt all of you needed to hear my comparison between
> the aforementioned chips for an eta-powered e28.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 13:52:08 -0500
From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E46> radio question

I got a 2000 323i sedan. The display on the radio is half burnt out...it
sort of looses it's lighting power as you see it from bottom to top. So,
only the bottom of the station numbers appear. Also, when the car is off,
there is a slight hint of the display lighting up...???  Is this radio
toast?  It is the Harmon Kardon in dash cd unit.

Alex Cagann
88///M5
00 323i

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6239
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