[uucdigest]          Thursday, June 19 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6485



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] RE: Feeler guage
       [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions
       [uuc] Re: air filter advice needed
       RE: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions
       Re: [uuc] Re: air filter advice needed
       [uuc] re: changing brake bias
       Re: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions
       [uuc] Re:  installing gauges in an E30
       Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 09:47:09 -0700
From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Feeler guage

SnapOn sell excellent feeler gauges.  But the stuff from Sears works
too.

Brant

<<<<<From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] RE: Feeler guage

Anyone know a good source for quality feeler guages? I'm thinking mine
have seen
better days after use with spark plugs and I don't recall where I got
them.
I'd like to do a valve adjust on on M30 motor this weekend (12
thousanths).

- - -Kevin>>>>>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 12:37:58 -0400
From: John Sabatini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions

Looking to get some new wheels in the near future.  I want to get 16" wheels
but am curious if there are any pro and cons between 15" wheels and 16"
wheels.  The car is my daily driver as well as track car.  I am an
instructor with both BMW CCA and PCA, with my primary tracks being Sebring,
Moroso, and Road Atlanta.

I like the 5 or 6 spoke wheels and would like any feedback or
recommendations on the following.  

I really like the SSR Competition wheels, but at over $1,200, I wish I could
find something less expensive.

The only other wheels I have found seem to be too cheap.  They are as
follows:

ASA JS1 (licensed by BBS, but only $100 per wheel)

Kosei K1

Sport Edition Fox 2

Mille Miglia MM11-2  


Thanks in advance,

John Sabatini
'90 325is

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 09:55:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: air filter advice needed

On Wed, 18 Jun 2003, Ben Dixon wrote:

> Can somebody tell me where to find the site that compares K & N
> air filters with stock ones.  I know it's on the net but that is
> all I know.  Thanks, Ben Dixon

 There's probably more than one.  Here's mine:

http://www.bolhuijo.com/airflowtest/index.html

- --
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 13:08:29 -0400
From: "Money, Jack (J.J.)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions

Personally I think the Kosei's are ugly as sh!t but they're light, easy to
clean, and cheap.  I ran these exclusively on my car when it was JS.
Recently I had the opportunity to run them in 17" but since I've already
purchased 3 sets of other wheels I passed on it.

For the money and weight, I think the Kosei's are hard to beat...even though
they're ugly!  Never heard of the ASA's but sounds interesting.

Jack Money
'89 325iX...I like the stock 15"
#86 JP M3...17" for brake clearance, more tire
Elephant Motorsports

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Sabatini [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 12:38 PM
To: BMW UUC Digest ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
Subject: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions


Looking to get some new wheels in the near future.  I want to get 16" wheels
but am curious if there are any pro and cons between 15" wheels and 16"
wheels.  The car is my daily driver as well as track car.  I am an
instructor with both BMW CCA and PCA, with my primary tracks being Sebring,
Moroso, and Road Atlanta.

I like the 5 or 6 spoke wheels and would like any feedback or
recommendations on the following.  

I really like the SSR Competition wheels, but at over $1,200, I wish I could
find something less expensive.

The only other wheels I have found seem to be too cheap.  They are as
follows:

ASA JS1 (licensed by BBS, but only $100 per wheel)

Kosei K1

Sport Edition Fox 2

Mille Miglia MM11-2  


Thanks in advance,

John Sabatini
'90 325is

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 13:19:25 -0400
From: "James Moran" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: air filter advice needed

Here's some more:
http://www.seansa4page.com/resource/airfilter.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/engine/e36_m3_air_filter_tests.html
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/Air_filter.htm (with K&N rebuttal)

Jim Moran
'88 M6

From: "John Bolhuis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> On Wed, 18 Jun 2003, Ben Dixon wrote:
> 
> > Can somebody tell me where to find the site that compares K & N
> > air filters with stock ones.  I know it's on the net but that is
> > all I know.  Thanks, Ben Dixon
> 
>  There's probably more than one.  Here's mine:
> 
> http://www.bolhuijo.com/airflowtest/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:05:24 -0700
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] re: changing brake bias

re: changing brake bias:

Here are two low tech ways I've altered brake bias to get more braking 
force to the rear or less to the front, when prepping BMWs for stock or 
street prepared autocross without violating class rules.  If trailing 
throttle oversteer to set your tail perfectly into the next gate is your 
thing, you may wish to try this:

1.  Here's one of those 'black arts' that people don't talk about. 
 Don't bleed the front brakes.  Keep fresh fluid in the rears.  In fact 
you can deliberately introduce air into the front brakes by opening the 
bleeder valve with the pedal down, and raising the brake pedal a bit so 
some air gets sucked in.
     Don't try it if you're tracking the car.  In an autocross 
setting this method works well because you only need one or two heavy 
womps on the brakes, plus some left foot braking during the run. 
 Therefore heat buildup on the front is not of concern.

2.  Use smaller diameter rear/larger diameter front tires.  Thus the 
fronts rotate slower, the rears faster, so the proportion of effective 
swept area shifts rearward.  Another plus when autocrossing is that 
smaller rear tires make the tail more reactive.  The car will rake 
rearward a bit, causing more caster on the front wheels and shifting the 
weight bias rearward.
Enjoy,

'jk

If you want to go as fast as everyone else, first do what everyone else 
is doing.  If you only do what everyone else is doing, how can you go 
any faster?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:09:32 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <E30> Wheel questions

in absolutely identical conditions (same overall weight, tire width, overall
diameter) there may be marginal performance advantages to 16" tires (someone
like Gary D can tell you the tire-engineer truth behind this) but for anything
less than racing it's not likely to be a killer difference.  unless you need 16"
wheels to clear big brakes, the 16's are only going to provide you with a more
limited range of track tires & cost more while likely adding extra weight unless
you go with a more expensive lightweight wheel.

if you're running the wheels on both the track & the street you're compromising
with tire choice anyway, so it becomes a matter of personal preference, not
absolute performance.  if you run a track-only tire, then you want a ligher,
wider wheel for the track & the Kosei is the way to go.  the SSR's are even
lighter, but as you've noted, they are wickedly expensive.

there is a 6-spoke BMW factory 15x7 wheel for the E30 which is somewhat rare
here in the US, but would provide an easy to clean design which matches what
you're looking for.  there are also factory option BBS 15" x 7" wheels (same as
the E30 M3 wheel, just a marginally different offset and of course a 4x100 lug
spacing) which I can supply, but you've stated a preference for a 5 or 6-spoke
design.

one thing to watch out for with aftermarket wheels is that some of them - the
MM11-2 for instance I believe  - are relatively heavy.  not a killer issue, but
if you're going with a heavier wheel from previously running 14's you're going
to see a performance reduction if you're in tune with the way your car performs.

if it were my car I'd stick with 14's for track tires (lightest, cheaper tires,
smaller diameter for better acceleration, fit over the stock brakes) and run the
15" or 16" of your choice for appearance on the street.  keep in mind that you
have to run a 225/45 if you run 16" wheels on an E30, as a 225/50 will rub on
the top of the fender aprons as they are too tall, esp if the car is lowered.
you can run either 225/45 or 225/50 in a 15" wheel & are forced by your track
tire choice one direction or another with some brands due to the available
sizes.



Ben
wheels, lots & lots of wheels

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 11:29:54 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  installing gauges in an E30

Yes Joe, I had my hollow bolt tapped.  But just in case, buy an extra one
as a back-up.  The temp sender has not leaked.  The drain plug is a poor
place for a sender, IMHO.

You can buy the pressure sender adaptor, you don't have to make one.  Maybe
one day I'll finally get around to installing the gauges themselves.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i w/ senders

>Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2003 21:11:36 -0400 (EDT)
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [uuc] installing gauges in an E30
>
>I am looking to install some gauges in my '87 325i so that I don't have a
>repeat of the repairs I just did (cam and rockers replaced secondary to a
>failing oil pump). I am looking at putting an oil pressure and temperature
>gauge in the space presently occupied by the ashtray. I think they can be
>made to fit there, but it is going to be tight.
>
>I am planning on making an adapter block to allow me to retain the stock
>idiot light switch in addition to providing a place for the pressure
sender.
>
>I am considering where to put the sender for the temperature gauge. I
could
>do the sump, but that doesn't feel like a very good place to put the
sender.
>Ideally I would like to get it in the oil returning to the engine after
the
>oil cooler. I was thinking about tapping the hollow bolt that holds the
>filter/oil cooler adapter and installing it there. Does anyone know if
that
>bolt is big enough to tap 1/8-27 NPT? Anyone know what the thread on the
>stock oil pressure switch is? M12x1.5?
>
>Anyone done this before?
>
>- -- Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2003 14:30:28 -0400
From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525

whoops, yes, meant to say *bias to the rear*.
time to go find more caffeine

its actually looking like the best low cost solution is something like E28
M5 fronts or 8 series (4 pot brembo version) fronts, combined with the 540
vented rears.  one step down from that would be the E32 fronts with the
vented rears as well. both of which are what have been suggested here
plenty.
of course, I don't know if *best low cost* is the ideal approach for brakes.
:oP

- -Michael McCoy

- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 12:27 PM
Subject: RE: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525


> If you're first sentence was meant to say
>
> "the idea is indeed to move bias to the REAR"
>
> then the rest of the paragraph makes sense.
>
> Now another kludge to your problem would be to put racing pads on the rear
> and crap pads up front.  But I wouldn't drive a car like that.
>
> Marco
> ps my suggestion for a bias valve may not work on your E34 if it has ABS.
I
> haven't seen a bias valve installed on an ABS 3 or 4 channel system.  I'm
> not saying it isn't possible, I just don't know how to do it.  I thought
you
> had an E23 for some reason, which I assumed did not have ABS
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael McCoy
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 4:00 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525
>
>
> the idea is indeed to move bias to the front. another aproach would be
> bigger calipers on the front, complemented by much bigger calipers on the
> rear. current brake bias is around 70% front. I'm looking for more along
the
> lines of 65% to 63% front. I'm not looking to move the brakes ALL to the
> rear, but currently the rear brakes don't do much of anything ...
especially
> when braking hard.
>
> -Michael McCoy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "marco" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2003 1:15 AM
> Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525
>
>
> > Michael,
> >
> > Do I understand what you're saying correctly?  Do you want to put
> > smaller calipers in the front to move brake bias to the rear?
> >
> > I also think that if you really want to as you write
> >
> > " I'm really looking for a system that is truly balanced. as in the
> > limit of adhesion in braking is attained at all 4 wheels at the same
> time."
> >
> > I hope you're not forgetting that weight transfers forward as you jump
> > on the binders, so by making your bias move more to the rear without
> > addressing forward weight transfer you're going to lock the rears up
> > sooner and make the car pretty loopy.  Or are you also putting some
> > really fast computer controlled bias valve that compensates for the
> > weight transfer.
> >
> > I'm obviously a bit puzzled as to what you're trying to do.
> >
> > BTW you can buy a cockpit adjustable brake bias valve that allows you to
> > play with bias to your hearts content.  Just don't test it on the
highway.
> >
> > Marco
> >
> > Michael McCoy wrote:
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 7:26 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>The E23 calipers are not compatible with the E34.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > hmm. now you tell me. :oP
> > > they have the same pistons as the M5/M6 so I was hoping that maybe
they
> were
> > > just a cheaper version made by ATE.
> > > they are quite small. so that would definately have served my purpose
in
> > > moving lots of the brake bias to the rear.
> > > oh well. they are on their way... less than $16 including shipping.
> maybe
> > > I'll find a place for them to sit and look pretty.
> > >
> > >
> > >>As posted previously, almost your entire menu of BMW factory-sourced
> > >
> > > options
> > >
> > >>is found right here:
> > >>
> > >>http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/upgrade/brakes.htm
> > >>
> > >>(There's a rare E32 tiny 4-piston setup I left out of the list).
> > >>
> > >>How crazy do you want to go with the brakes?  In about a week or two,
> UUC
> > >>will have the 355mm 4-piston front and 328mm 4-piston rear available
for
> > >
> > > the
> > >
> > >>E34.  They fit under 17" wheels and will be very reasonably priced for
> > >
> > > this
> > >
> > >>level of braking capability.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > you done the math yet on brake balance/bias/dynamics yet? and if so,
you
> > > care to share those numbers?
> > >
> > > I'm really looking for a system that is truly balanced. as in the
limit
> of
> > > adhesion in braking is attained at all 4 wheels at the same time.
also,
> for
> > > a balanced braking system, the thermal load at all 4 corners would be
> > > similar. as in the % utilization of the heat sink capacity is equal
> front to
> > > rear, so all the brakes would overheat at the same time. so not
cooking
> the
> > > fronts and the rears only warm to hot (which is what the car does
now).
> > >
> > > also, why such big rotors in the front? seems a bit excessive. 330mm
was
> > > more than enough for most LMP cars (granted they are only 1500lbs, but
> they
> > > do more repetetive stopping from higher speeds than a 5 will ever
see.)
> > >
> > >
> > >>Big brakes are not an option on the E34 - they are a _requirement_.
> I've
> > >>had 5-series for quite a few years now, and have experienced virtually
> > >
> > > every
> > >
> > >>setup listed on the BMWE34.net website.  Frankly, all of the factory
> parts
> > >>(even the Nurburgring calipers) are insufficient, especially if you're
> > >>building a big-power car.
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > i don't know if bigger is always better. granted the E34 needs better
> > > brakes, but I think sizing the calipers to match the balance and
maximum
> > > grip of the car is best. and then size the rotor to accomodate the
heat
> > > characteristics of the system.
> > >
> > > i've been trying to work the math backwards, but keep finding things
> wrong
> > > with my approach. I want the math to be perfect before I figure out
what
> > > calipers/rotors match the needs. the trial and error methodology would
> be an
> > > expensive way to approach this problem.
> > >
> > > -Michael McCoy
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >>- Rob
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>----- Original Message -----
> > >>From: "Michael McCoy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>Subject: Re: [uuc] Brake upgrades for E34 525
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>>ok, so those are the fronts. what about the rears?
> > >>>
> > >>>I'm trying to get rid of the excessive front bias. (getting rid of
heat
> > >>>faster too would also be a plus.)
> > >>>
> > >>>what can people tell me about the E23 7 series front brakes? they
look
> > >>
> > > to
> > >
> > >>be
> > >>
> > >>>very similar to the front brakes on the M5/M6 of the early 80's. they
> > >>
> > > use
> > >
> > >>>the same rebuilt kit... but don't have the same caliper PN and such.
> > >>>any info on rotor size and the likes?
> > >>>
> > >>>thanks
> > >>>
> > >>>-Michael McCoy
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6485
***************************

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|________________________________________
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