[uucdigest]           Monday, June 23 2003           Volume 03 : Number 6495



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       [uuc] ADMIN: A word about common decency
       RE: [uuc] Tires
       [uuc] <FS> Supersprint muffler, DEC cat
       [uuc] Re: For Sale, E34 M5 Brakes, Complete
       [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads
       Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads
       Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads
       Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads
       Re: [uuc] <e36><m3> Need baseline for Victoracer tire pressures
       Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads
       [uuc] Pad choice was Brake upgrades for E34 525
       [uuc] Odometer lights dimmed out??
       RE: [uuc] <e36><m3> Need baseline for Victoracer tire pressures

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 18:15:12 -0400
From: UUC Admin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] ADMIN: A word about common decency

All,

It's increasingly common these days for people to not remove themselves 
from the list when they either don't want to be a member anymore or change 
email addresses.

Instead they do things like "block mail from this sender". Not to pick on 
any one group, but AOL subscribers have been very bad about this lately.

Example (name replaced with "jerk" to protect the guilty):

- ----- The following addresses had permanent fatal errors -----
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
- ----- Transcript of session follows -----
... while talking to air-zd04.mail.aol.com.:
 >>> RCPT To:<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<<< 550 jerk IS NOT ACCEPTING MAIL FROM THIS SENDER

Sounds like the easy thing to do, right? Unfortunately for those of us who 
have the role of "postmaster" - this generates a mess for us. We have to 
sort through hundreds and sometimes thousands of bounce messages (I had 
1700+ to sort through today) and try to figure out why the mail is 
bouncing. Then we have to remove the person in question if warranted and in 
general waste a lot of time because someone is too lazy to issue the 
command to majordomo to remove themselves.

With all that said, if you remember nothing else, remember this: Please 
remove yourself if your address is changing or you don't want to be on the 
list. If you cannot figure out how to do so by following the simple 
instructions listed here: http://www.uucdigest.com/listinfo/index.html , 
please send me an email and I'll do it for you.

This list is by request only, we've never added anyone without their asking 
to be here. We'll gladly remove you if that is your wish.

'nuff said,

Back to our regularly scheduled BMW mania.

Michael K Donohue
System Administrator
UUC Digest
http://www.uucdigest.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 16:22:50 -0600
From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Tires

Steve Albrecht wrote:
> I'll cast my vote for the new Yokohama ES-100 tires.

I like them too.  They replaced Yok AVS Intermediates (previous occupant
of the same slot in the Yokohama product line) on both our cars.

> However my wallet sure knows the difference.  The Sports were 
> about $250 each, and the ES-100 are about $125.  I am truly
> impressed with the price/performance ratio of these tires.

Discount Tire sold me the ES-100 225/50-16 mounted and force-balanced
(Hunter GSP9700) for $125 apiece.  Smooooooth and quick.
- --
Bob Sutterfield
'87 E30 325iS http://bmwe30.net #1129 DAS KAR
'88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org   #154 IHR FUNF
'93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA
BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:24:56 -0400
From: Jack - Elephant Motorsports <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <FS> Supersprint muffler, DEC cat

For an E30 M3:

I have a used Supersprint street muffler with DTM tips for
sale.  This is the muffler that Simon Hunter had for sale a
few weeks ago.  I bought it for a street car project that
did not materialize, now I don't need it.  Asking what I
paid for it, $225 plus shipping.  It's in great shape.

I also have a brand new, never installed or used DEC
catalytic converter.  Lighter and freer flowing than stock.
$400 plus shipping.

Email if you're interested, thanks!

Jack Money
#86 JP M3
Elephant Motorsports, INC.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:20:34 -0400
From: "Mel Abrahams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: For Sale, E34 M5 Brakes, Complete

Jim-
What setup did you go with for the M5?
Mel A

www.abrahamsmotorsport.com
'91 E34 M5
'88 E30 M3 Track Car

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The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*  
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:26:23 -0400
From: "Mel Abrahams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads

Have you tried Hawk HT10 pads?
I found them more rotor friendly than the Blues and they don't leave that 
messy blue residue on your wheels.They also grab better.
Mel A
www.abrahamsmotorsport.com
'91 E34 M5
'88 E30 M3 Track car

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The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*  
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 19:47:03 -0700
From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads

I run HT-10 pads on the track with my Coleman rotors/AP calipers on my 95
M3. They really grab well when they get up to temp. Pad residue is a reddish
powder that doesn't seem to have ever hurt any wheels I've used with them.
They do seem awfully abrasive though, so I change back to softer pads for
the drive home.
Joe
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mel Abrahams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 5:26 PM
Subject: [uuc] <e36><m3> Track Pads


> Have you tried Hawk HT10 pads?
> I found them more rotor friendly than the Blues and they don't leave that
> messy blue residue on your wheels.They also grab better.
> Mel A
> www.abrahamsmotorsport.com
> '91 E34 M5
> '88 E30 M3 Track car
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
> http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 21:57:23 -0500
From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads

Second vote on the Hawk HT-10's, or even the HT-14's (next step up 
beyond the HT-10's).  Much better than the Blues in every way (except 
for price).  I run them with stock rotors and they're simply amazing.

I get my Hawk brakes from Bimmerworld - www.bimmerworld.com

Eric M. Foster
Performify.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2003 20:33:15 -0700
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads

[EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Second vote on the Hawk HT-10's, or even the HT-14's (next step up
> beyond the HT-10's).  Much better than the Blues in every way (except
> for price).  I run them with stock rotors and they're simply amazing.

The HT10's don't have the bite of the Blues, though.  My next set will
probably be HT15's.

- - Mark
- --
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:29:54 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3> Need baseline for Victoracer tire pressures

Donn wrote:
>Next weekend I plan to take the T2/IS car out for the first time next
>weekend.  I'm running Victoracers, 225/45/17 all around.  Can someone give
>me a baseline pressure (cold and hot, if possible) to begin with?

I'd check the Tirerack site they usually have a care and feeding section
on R-compound tires.  Anyhoo I think Victoracers should be run at about
40psi hot,
most definitely double check that.

>Also, what is the recommended wheel torque spec for the e36 M3?

I'm pretty sure most BMWs w/alum wheels have a 75-80 ft-lbs torque spec, I
however
tighten mine up a little more during track weekends 90 ft-lbs.  I think
some racers
actually go tighter than that, a lot of new wheels seem to loosen up with
track use
especially those ugly looking Koseis. :-)

Carlos
91 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 08:35:20 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3>  Track Pads

Mark wrote:
>The HT10's don't have the bite of the Blues, though.  My next set will
>probably be HT15's.

Hmmm... I found the opposite to be true, the HT-10s have more initial bite.
They
do like more heat than the Blues though, I always drag my left foot on the
brake
pedal whenever entering the track to get heat on them and have never had a
problem
with intial bite.  I've actually autoxed Ben's 332iS with HT-10s and had NO
problems
even w/o heat on the pads, the Blues tend to have that scary first
application where
you have no brakes until they heat up.

Anyhoo, back to Don's question, the HT-10s are not easy on rotors either
and
you have to watch how much cooling you're getting to them.  If I were to
run milder
pads I'd go to a Porterfield R4 and even though I've never tried them
perhaps a
Pagid Orange (I've heard they're easier to modulate) although I've never
had issues
modulating Hawk pads.

Carlos.
Motor City Chapter

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:00:01 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Pad choice was Brake upgrades for E34 525

Michael wrote:
>I've been told that perhaps the *cool willy* pads might be a better pad
for
>me on the street.   Whats the generally recommended pad here?

I think I'm in 100% agreement with what Rich posted.  Perhaps you are
having
off gas problems with your pads but consider those are really old pads and
among
the worst pads made these days, the EBC pads you mentioned are probably
*the* worst
pads these days.

Again as Rich said I'd get new front Balo rotors and try a better street
pad.
I like to autox my car so I like upgraded pads, my choice was the Hawk HP+
for the front
and Hawk HPS in the rear only because Bob Tunnell also made this choice and
I doubt
a single person on this list can outdrive him in an autox course.  My
second choice
would be Porterfield R4S pads.  I think those two items will make a
noticeable difference
over powerslotted rotors and Metal Masters.  You should not be able to make
either
of these pads fade unless you're on a road course, if you do you should be
arrested. ;-)
If you're fading race pads, then you either don't have enough cooling or
your braking
technique needs work, on the track you need to be on the brakes quickly but
yet smoothly
and off the pedal as soon as possible.  I've never warped rotors (now I'm
not the best
under braking either) but you read about folks warping rotors on E36 M3s
which have
much larger brakes than my car and I'm convinced it's 100% the driver's
fault.

Last, try some better brake fluid... I know a place that has Castrol SRF on
sale,
(scratch & dent sale) $30 a bottle instead of the normal $75-80.
www.elephantmotorsports.com

Carlos  :)
91 M3

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:00:15 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Odometer lights dimmed out??

The Odometer and tripometer gauge on my fiance's 1998 318 Ti just dimmed
nearly out two days ago.  All the other lights work fine.  You can still
see the numbers in certain light at certain angles, but the lights are all
but faded away.  They do still function, as in tracking mileage.

Any suggestions before I start pulling the cluster?


Phil
95 325Ti
98 318Ti

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2003 09:15:41 -0400
From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] <e36><m3> Need baseline for Victoracer tire pressures

Carlos wrote:
>I'm pretty sure most BMWs w/alum wheels have a 75-80 ft-lbs torque spec, I
>however tighten mine up a little more during track weekends 90 ft-lbs.  I think
>some racers actually go tighter than that, a lot of new wheels seem to loosen up with
>track use especially those ugly looking Koseis. :-)

I do not think that exceeding torque spec is a good idea at all, even for the track 
(especially for the track!).  Rather a good
practice is to torque the wheels to spec cold, go out and run, come back in and let 
the wheels cool down, and re-torque them.  The
issue is that they expand when hot, so if you torque them hot they can end up siezing 
and breaking on you, or if you over-torque
them cold they can expand and sieze on you.  Either way it's not a great scenario...  
Best bet is to torque the wheels to 80 ft-lbs
prior to every on-track session and you'll likely have no troubles at all....

Cheers,
Mike

97 M3 IP #121


- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2003 8:30 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [uuc] <e36><m3> Need baseline for Victoracer tire pressures


Donn wrote:
>Next weekend I plan to take the T2/IS car out for the first time next
>weekend.  I'm running Victoracers, 225/45/17 all around.  Can someone give
>me a baseline pressure (cold and hot, if possible) to begin with?

I'd check the Tirerack site they usually have a care and feeding section
on R-compound tires.  Anyhoo I think Victoracers should be run at about
40psi hot,
most definitely double check that.

>Also, what is the recommended wheel torque spec for the e36 M3?

I'm pretty sure most BMWs w/alum wheels have a 75-80 ft-lbs torque spec, I
however
tighten mine up a little more during track weekends 90 ft-lbs.  I think
some racers
actually go tighter than that, a lot of new wheels seem to loosen up with
track use
especially those ugly looking Koseis. :-)

Carlos
91 M3

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6495
***************************

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