[uucdigest] Thursday, June 26 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6512
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] E36 AC service [uuc] Re: Brake Fluid from Opened Container [uuc] Windshield crack "repair" [uuc] speaking of the Mini Cooper S [uuc] Re: best list for E28s [uuc] Napa R 134 conversion kit Re: [uuc] Re: Brake Fluid from Opened Container [uuc] Mini Musing [uuc] Trophies (last one I promise!) RE: [uuc] Can anyone suggest an auto transport company on the eas t coast? [uuc] Left foot braking [uuc] RE: serpentine tensioner adjustment [uuc] re: Turpentine or Silicon ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 11:39:00 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] E36 AC service Run in recirculate mode. That loads less moisture in the evaporator. Turn the system off when the air flow dimishes to let the ice melt out. Gary Derian > Yes, the air flow does diminish over time, as the temperature of the air > flow rises. Sounds like a winner. I'll check to see how easily > accessible the expansion valve is. Hopefully better than what I saw for > the evaporator. > > Thanks, > Chris B. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:15:05 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: Brake Fluid from Opened Container Opened 1 liter can of ATE Type 200 three months ago to top off fluid. Screwed cap back on tightly immediately after use. Planning to bleed brakes (not flush) Friday prior to drivers school. Is it inadvisable to use fluid from opened container? Neil Simon Wash, DC 99 M Coupe ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:19:20 -0700 From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Windshield crack "repair" >I have heard of procedures where cracks are "repaired." Any experiences/opinions on these? We did this twice via insurance on rock-cracked windshields. Both turned out to be a waste of time, didn't work, and we ended up with replacement windshields anyway. The third time this happened we and the insurance company agreed it was best to just replace the entire windshield (we paid the deductible). We had no problem getting the correct OE BMW windshield the same day it was needed in all three instances. Mike A ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:19:45 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] speaking of the Mini Cooper S A good friend is looking to buy one now. We went to Mini of Peabody yesterday, but were told that to get one would require an 8 month wait, minimum (they were also really pushing the regular Cooper). I dimly recall someone out here (or on another car-related list) that Cooper Ss were available immediately at other dealerships around the country. True? Any thoughts? In an ideal world, she'd love an "Indigo Cooper S with a premium package (without the moonroof), sport package, cold weather package, checkered flag painted roof, white bonnet stripes with black rule", whatever all that means. Any help/advice would be appreciated. vty, - --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 12:41:33 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Re: best list for E28s Don't know about mailing lists, but www.mye28.com/forum has a great message board. Speaking of E28s, does anyone have a cheap used cat-back for a 528e? Drew Zacharda '94 540iT/6 '87 528eA In a message dated 6/26/2003 9:28:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] best list for E28s > > what is the best list for E28s. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 11:41:53 -0500 From: "Brian Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Napa R 134 conversion kit anybody tried the Napa R 134 conversion kit? They claim only 10 minutes to convert. includes nipples that permanently "bond" onto the existing Nipples via thread lock, 3 cans of R 134, a hose to charge the system and a can of "conditioner"/sealer that apparently makes the existing lubricant work well with the 134 and conditions the system for R 134 use. I asked the person behind the counter if they have had any come backs or complaints on the product and was told "no", ...we had a guy convert his in front of the store and drove off with a cold A/C using R 134" Any thoughts on this?? I am about to convert my 82 633 if it gets a thumbs up from the list Brian Collins Dallas, TX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 11:45:22 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Re: Brake Fluid from Opened Container [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Opened 1 liter can of ATE Type 200 three months ago to top > off fluid. Screwed cap back on tightly immediately after > use. Planning to bleed brakes (not flush) Friday prior to > drivers school. Is it inadvisable to use fluid from opened > container? Neil, The safest advise is to dump the old fluid (the cap is not air tight and the fluid does absorb moisture just sitting in the previous opened can). ATE Type 200/Super Blue are cheap enough where you should be able to afford to discard a can. That's is if you have a spare handy. But to be honest with you, I do sometimes use a recently opened can of fluid. I do wrap the cap in duct tape to provide a second seal and do not keep pre-opened bottles on the shelve for more than a few weeks. YMMV, alex f ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:49:26 -0700 From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Mini Musing Some time ago a friend and I took a day and drove a lot of cars including the Mini, Mini S, Subaru WRX, VW Beatle Turbo, VW GTI 336, VW Jetta 201hp VR6, Acura RSX-S. Of these, the Subaru was a real downer to me as it didn't feel like it had much power and the brakes were awful. The Mini and Mini S were very fun to drive, the S obviously being more powerful but I think you have to really pay attention to wring it out and not make mistakes like being in the wrong gear or lugging it off the line since it has no power under 2500. The two turbo VW's were not much different from each other except for bodywork. I didn't like either of them that much. The Acura RSX-S was really a handful above 75 or 80 and this might well have been a wheel alignment problem as it was extremely nervous and I couldn't wait to get back to the dealer and get out of it. The sleeper was the Jetta 201hp VR6. The 201hp VR6 engine is wonderful. Pulls like a freight train from idle and never runs out of steam. The gearbox was very good 6 speed and the brakes were typical German and up to the task. Fit and finish excellent. My choice would probably be the GTI with this motor. I like hatches and you can put a 32" TV in the back in the box. Of course, a Mini gets all the attention and I don't know if any of these cars is as good as an E30 M3 or even a well setup E30 325is. My friend, Mike Andre, has a terrific example of a 325is and it is extremely fun to drive and ride in yet he still has about $20k in the bank and a great car. Lot to be said for that. Mike Holbrook Spring Valley, CA ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 09:56:49 -0700 From: Donn Vickrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Trophies (last one I promise!) Carlos wrote: >>>Heh... trophies, at last year's SCCA meeting we were discussing trophies and ideas for them so they could be added to the budget. Someone suggested t-shirts which got turned down real quick! The roadracers especially mentioned their trophies sometimes end up costing 10K for the weekend so they could win and like to have something nice that they can display either at home or work not some stinkin' t-shirt.<<< I'm surprised people didn't like the t-shirts. I'd love to get any type of racing or BMW shirt in black, so that I can wear it to the track and no one will see all the grease and dirt accumulating on my clothes during the day! Lighter colors would also be ok. Grey would be good to wear when playing with my 2 year old (who gets stuff all over me) and even white would be ok for a casual day (provided it's not fugly of course). Since I'm partial to funtional awards, hard to find tools, like that weird 14mm do dad needed to change the diff fluid, would also make nice trophies. Back on the more general topic, I think the trophies mean more at first, especially if they're half decent looking (not just a plastic goddess). I was really appreciative of my first trophy, a really ugly looking medal (like what you'd give a six year old for soccer) from Cal Club SCCA. But, fugly gets old pretty quickly and I don't even remember I hid the remaining collection of old Cal Club medals. Maybe what we need is a trophy recycle facility <smile> so that people who've raced for a few years can send their old trophies in for redistribution to newer racers who will appreciate their first few trophies. Lastly, I should give credit to the San Diego BMWCCA chapter. A few years ago, at least, they were putting out a really nice looking auto-x trophy - actually plaques with a cool M-car in action (in black, over the gold backing). I actually put the one of those on the wall as it passed the not-fugly test. Yours in speed. Donn Vickrey Scottsdale, AZ 98 IS/T2 M3 race car 02 996TT daily driver 03 Navigator tow vehicle and tot hauler ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 13:04:45 -0400 From: "Binder, Larry - Spine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Can anyone suggest an auto transport company on the eas t coast? The carfax checked out ok but I just found out that the car has been entirely (poorly) repainted!! It also has non dot front fenders. I think I'll pass on this one. A very well spent $85. I highly recommend Autobahn Automotive to do prepurchase inspections in the Boston area. They saved me a lot of money. Now I just have to make sure I get my deposit back from dealer. They seem to be stalling. Any suggestions? Larry - -----Original Message----- From: Eric Giles [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:42 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [uuc] Can anyone suggest an auto transport company on the east coast? Larry- When I purchased my '90 M3 a couple of months ago, I got in touch with Trusty Transport www.trustytransport.com on the recommendation of someone else that had used them. They picked the car up in Virginia on a Friday and brought it to me in Mississippi later that next day. My price was $595, which I thought was very reasonable. No relation, just a happy customer! Eric Giles '02 330i '90 M3 '90 325is - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Binder, Larry - Spine Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 7:11 AM To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'; '[EMAIL PROTECTED]' Subject: [uuc] Can anyone suggest an auto transport company on the east coast? I need to find a company to ship my 330i from Boston to Philly. I got a great deal on the car so I'd be willing to pay a little more for a company with a good reputation. Thanks, Larry ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 13:19:25 -0400 From: "Bill Heumann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Left foot braking I am driving with the SMG2. At a recent school my instructor suggested that I may want to work at left foot braking since the SMG makes this very simple. I drove carts as a kid so I think I could have fairly good co-ordination with it. I decided to start practicing on the road and find that the brake pedal position is very unnatural for me to work with my left foot. It feels like I am almost crossing my legs. Has anyone else tried left foot braking with the SMG? Are there after market brake pedals available for the E46 that would extend a little further to the left? Bill Heumann E46 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 10:22:59 -0700 From: "KKiely" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: serpentine tensioner adjustment After reading the Bentley again, I finally understood the instruction for tensioning the serpentine on the E32. Inline with the top nut on the tensioner is a nut which is part of the bracket. By loosening the two tensioner nuts and putting a box wrench on the nut and pulling up the tensioner moves down and tightens the belt then a quick cinch of the support nut to hold the tensioner in place. - -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 10:27:27 -0700 (PDT) From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] re: Turpentine or Silicon 1. Silicon spray is what you get when the wind kicks up in the Sahara Desert. It's not much use for installing bushings. Ferchrissakes, the word is siliconE, not silicon. 2. Is there any particular reason you hide behind the pseudonym jkerouac? Anything wrong with your real name, Barry J. Burr? Curt Ingraham 72 2002tii Oakland, CA > Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2003 23:02:48 -0700 > From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [uuc] re: Turpentine or Silicon > > re: Turpentine or Silicon: > > Yo Brett, > You been breathin' in too much of that turpentine? Your usually > spot on tech tips make it sound like an imposter used your name, someone > who maybe really thought the teacher believed it when they used the > excuse that a dog ate their homework back in elementary school. > Spring rate affected by using an inert substance on a bushing, at a > horizontal mounting point where there is _no body weight loaded on it? > If there is sufficient tension by the rubber on the metal arm, it will > not slip, plain and simple. > From frisbee competitions of long ago where silicon is sprayed onto > the frisbee so that you can spin it on your fingernail and do all those > kinky acrobatic moves and catches with a frisbee, I learned by lots of > experience that silicon spray does dry and lose it slipperiness over > time. A disc sprayed up the night before will not be nearly as slick as > a disk sprayed and rubbed right before using it. > Using a reactive solvent _does soften the rubber, thereby allowing > greater deflection of the rear of the arm inward or outward. If the > solvent bonds the rubber surface to the metal ( initially), and then > from the increased deflection on the softened rubber the bond tears, now > you have a surface that is not pressing with sufficient tension on the > arm to not slip, so that the bushing will in fact eventually slip as the > control arm rotates up and down, and also from the fore and aft > thrusting that the bushing dampens. Its the fore and aft thrusting > particularly that is why you do _not want the bushing bonded, since then > the rubber can not roll forward or back the small amounts it needs to to > dampen the linear thrusts. > This digest originated from the desire to have open technical > dialog free of beliggerent[sp] invalidation of other's views. If you > wish to post that you prefer turpentine, that's great. To write an > invalidating load of crap with arguments as transparent as the hogwash > the American public gets on a daily basis from their elected official > has no place on this digest. > You are welcome to come and see my bushings, or have someone in > your good graces in the Bay area come to my house and check them out for > you. There is no slip or slide on my bushings despite having installed > them with silicon spray. Niether is there any swelling or sponginess in > the rubber contact ring, since the lube I use is inert with rubber, > unlike petroleum based solvents such as turpentine. > Maybe do yourself a favor and install a pair of bushings in a car > you know you will see for a lot of miles, and use turpentine on one > side, and silicon spray on the other. I once won a wager about braking > by running one drum brake, and one disc brake, on the rear of an E30 > 318i. With properly adjusted brake shoes, the car stopped in a dead > straight line. And I have one regular E36 front control arm, and one 95 > //M lightweight arm, on my car. I did it to see if there was any > difference in alignment, which there isn't, and eventually to find out > if the //M ball joint will last longer than the standard. > So a lighter tone on your part will be both consistent with your > previous postings as well as continue to contribute to making this > digest the generally amicable place it is. Your attack on using silicon > to lube bushings is louder than the doomsday preaching claims against my > engine for using my homemade larger AFM tube. Which you, or your > designated party, are also welcome to check out and drive. > Sincerely, > > 'jk ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6512 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
