[uucdigest] Wednesday, July 16 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6573
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] E46 center armrest replacement panel [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short RE: [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short Re: [uuc] Range Rover P38 Valve Covers [uuc] Redline fluids for E39? [uuc] Specs Re: [uuc] CD Changer sez "NO DISCS" [uuc] Thanks too everybody for the Canada and idle Info [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 11:31:59 -0400 From: Allen Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] E46 center armrest replacement panel A friend with an E46 M3 wants to rid himself of the center armrest and said he's heard of a replacement panel to fill the resulting hole. I've looked at the ETK, either it's not listed or I just can't ID it. Anyone know the part number? Thanks, Allen ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 12:38:50 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short Posting for a friend... Last night he was installing some harnesses and accidentally pinched the small 12v wire that runs alongside the large positive battery cable. Now the car will turn over, but will not start. All the general fuses look good. Could it be as simple as main fuse or as ugly as a fried ECU? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks In Advance, Jon Siccardi ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 14:10:13 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short Posting for a friend... Last night he was installing some harnesses and accidentally pinched the small 12v wire that runs alongside the large positive battery cable. Now the car will turn over, but will not start. All the general fuses look good. Could it be as simple as main fuse or as ugly as a fried ECU? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks In Advance, Jon Siccardi ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 15:45:15 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] E30 325is won't start after Wire short There is an inline fuse on that small wire, it's usually about 12" from the battery and will be taped to the main cable. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Last night he was installing some harnesses and accidentally pinched the > small 12v wire that runs alongside the large positive battery cable. Now > the car will turn over, but will not start. All the general fuses look > good. Could it be as simple as main fuse or as ugly as a fried ECU? Any > help would be appreciated. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 21:44:03 +0100 From: "Andrew Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Range Rover P38 Valve Covers John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes: >> BMW finally caught on to what every race car gearbox manufacurer was >> already doing. when you are accelerating its easier to pull back on the >> lever, when braking its easier to push forward. > Which may be true, but it's counterintuitive for anyone who's used to the > automatic PRNDL. You may also want to change down when accelerating, where pulling the lever back would feel more intuitive for me, personally. Even now I have to think about the direction in which to operate the auto shift lever. This is counter to my recent experience in a NZ-market Galant, whose faux-tiptronic-effect gearbox went forwards for up, and backwards for down. Didn't have to think about it once (if you see what I mean). Andy T ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:54:34 -0400 From: "Olsen, Mike (Morse TEC Ithaca)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Redline fluids for E39? I very recently acquired my first E39, a 1998 540i6, and was wondering which (if any) Redlines are recommended by the group for the rear diff. and manual trans. It just had it's Inspection 2, but that didn't call for either of these fluids to be changed. I assume (we all know what that means) that since this car has traction control that the differential is open? This is the Sport since it's a 6-speed. If the collective wisdom is to avoid Redline and flush regularly with factory fluids I could stick to that path too.... Looks like factory service intervals recommend trans fluid flush every second inspection 2, so that would mean roughly 80K, but I figured changing it more often wouldn't hurt. Thanks for any and all info. - -Mike Olsen 98 540i6 88 M3 Henna (possibly for sale soon) 88 325iC (possibly for sale soon too) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 16:33:13 -0500 From: "Roberts, Clarence H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Specs Scott, the specs on a 2000 323Ci Convertible Sport, or any car you may wish, are available via the cars.com website. Go to the Prices & Research tab, select the vehicle, then look under the various tabs for the info you desire. For instance, for a 2000 323Ci Convertible curb weight is 3,560 lbs; 2nd is 2.52; final (5th) is 1.0; Sport Package is: Sport Seats, Sport Suspension, and 17' wheels Style 44, with 225/45R-17 performance tires. The coupe shows the same sport package but a curb weight of 3,153 lbs. I have to believe the suspension is different. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 2003 19:50:27 -0700 From: Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] CD Changer sez "NO DISCS" Eric Did you try inserting an empty cartridge and see if it spits out a disc? Bora On Tuesday, July 15, 2003, at 01:56 AM, Eric Liu wrote: > The patient: 2001 325iT (turns 2 years old tomorrow!) with standard > AM/FM/Tape head unit and BMW 6-disc CD Changer > > The symptoms: When I press "MODE" on the head unit to switch to the > changer, > it reports "NO DISCS" even though the CD caddy is full and all discs > are > right-side up. > > I'm not sure how the changer is supposed to scan for discs when a > caddy is > inserted, but on my changer it appears that the transport is refusing > to > extend each disc tray to see if it is occupied. When the caddy is > inserted, > I can see the transport move to each disc position, but nothing > happens. It > will stop for a couple of seconds, moves up to the next position, stop > again, and so on until it reaches disc 6, where the transport moves > slightly > higher than slot 6, locking into position. I've tried it with no > discs, 1 > disc, and CD-Rs, with the same failures. Does anyone have any hints? > Is it > better/cheaper/etc in the long run to get the changer repaired or > replaced? > I installed the unit myself shortly after taking delivery, so it is > out of > warranty, i.e. not covered by the vehicle warranty. > > I've searched the archives with no helpful results, so anything anyone > can > come up with would be most appreciated. TIA. > > Eric Liu > > '81 320i - traded for > '89 325iS - traded for > '01 325iT > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:16:34 -0400 From: "David" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Thanks too everybody for the Canada and idle Info I really appreciate the info on Quebec, I am really looking forward to making the trip. I also appreciate the info on my idle problem. I think you are all right, a bad idle control valve. it is all over the place sometimes. Plan to take a better look this weekend. Thanks, David ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 05:49:34 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight First - weighed my car last evening 3120 lbs, minus 10 lbs of junk, minus 225 lbs for me plus clothes = 2885 lbs for a 1995 Club Sport Ti with 2.5L M50, and 17" Milla Miglias, half a tank of gas. Scales are accurate to +/- 10 lbs, but I ran over two sets (side by side) - same measurements. Second - Thanks to all for the help with tire pressures for my new P7000 Super Sports I have found that 35 to 37 up front and about 33 to 34 in the rears work very well. In fact in any journey over 15 miles I take temp. measurements of the tires, inside, middle, and outside with a laser pointed pyrometer. The results helped me determine that I needed a few pounds more pressure in the fronts, and the rears were okay. Phil ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 08:19:39 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight How did you figure that from tire temps? Increased pressure reduces tire distortion and slightly flattens the tread. For highway driving, tire pressure is first set for load capacity then adjusted some for understeer tuning. Gary Derian > > I have found that 35 to 37 up front and about 33 to 34 in the rears work > very well. In fact in any journey over 15 miles I take temp. measurements > of the tires, inside, middle, and outside with a laser pointed pyrometer. > The results helped me determine that I needed a few pounds more pressure in > the fronts, and the rears were okay. > > > Phil > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:39:26 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight Less pressure means the weakest spot on the tire will give under load. A 235/40 R 17 has very thin and very stiff sidewalls and about 8 to 9 inches of "middle" tire between the sidewalls. Thus, if I measure temps. after a long highway drive and the middle of the tire is 4 to 5F under the measured outer band temps. I would draw the conclusion that the tire is slightly cupping under load. By increasing the pressure, the tire should tend to bulge out more, pushing the weakest point out - thus bringing all the temps. (surface at least) back in line. Too much pressure and I'd bet the outside temps get lower than the middle - too much bulge. Another example I noticed which should be obvious was the outside treads of the rear tires were cooler by a few degrees than the inside treads. Camber, I would assume, would cause this. Without pushing the suspension and really leaning into the outside of the tires during a driving experiment - I would suspect the inner treads to be a bit warmer. Thus most tires if left on the rear wear out first along the inside tread. With a lowered car or increase in Neg. Camber, the effect is magnified. How did you figure that from tire temps? Increased pressure reduces tire distortion and slightly flattens the tread. For highway driving, tire pressure is first set for load capacity then adjusted some for understeer tuning. Gary Derian > > I have found that 35 to 37 up front and about 33 to 34 in the rears work > very well. In fact in any journey over 15 miles I take temp. measurements > of the tires, inside, middle, and outside with a laser pointed pyrometer. > The results helped me determine that I needed a few pounds more pressure in > the fronts, and the rears were okay. > > > Phil > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:56:16 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Tire Pressures - some results and weight The belt area of a modern high performance tire is much stiffer than the sidewalls. Adding air pressure actually stretches out the sidewalls and flattens the tread. The tread is molded to a radius and adding pressure can also add footprint pressure to the center while flattening the tread. It depends on the tire. Gary Derian > Less pressure means the weakest spot on the tire will give under load. A > 235/40 R 17 has very thin and very stiff sidewalls and about 8 to 9 inches > of "middle" tire between the sidewalls. Thus, if I measure temps. after a > long highway drive and the middle of the tire is 4 to 5F under the measured > outer band temps. I would draw the conclusion that the tire is slightly > cupping under load. By increasing the pressure, the tire should tend to > bulge out more, pushing the weakest point out - thus bringing all the > temps. (surface at least) back in line. Too much pressure and I'd bet the > outside temps get lower than the middle - too much bulge. > > Another example I noticed which should be obvious was the outside treads of > the rear tires were cooler by a few degrees than the inside treads. > Camber, I would assume, would cause this. Without pushing the suspension > and really leaning into the outside of the tires during a driving > experiment - I would suspect the inner treads to be a bit warmer. Thus > most tires if left on the rear wear out first along the inside tread. With > a lowered car or increase in Neg. Camber, the effect is magnified. > > > > How did you figure that from tire temps? Increased pressure reduces tire > distortion and slightly flattens the tread. For highway driving, tire > pressure is first set for load capacity then adjusted some for understeer > tuning. > Gary Derian > > > > > I have found that 35 to 37 up front and about 33 to 34 in the rears work > > very well. In fact in any journey over 15 miles I take temp. > measurements > > of the tires, inside, middle, and outside with a laser pointed pyrometer. > > The results helped me determine that I needed a few pounds more pressure > in > > the fronts, and the rears were okay. > > > > > > Phil > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6573 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . The Ultra-High Performance BMW Specialist | 207 Elm Street, Amesbury, MA 01950 | 978-388-7769 / fax 978-388-4202 | http://www.turnermotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning | and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! | 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com |__________________________________________________________
