[uucdigest]          Thursday, July 24 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6599



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       Re:  [uuc] SOLVED:  Issues removing front control arm/outer ball joints  from 
Hub...
       Re: [uuc] <misc> BBS stem caps
       [uuc] Carfax
       RE: [uuc] [e34] My headlights melted.  
       Re: [uuc] SOLVED:  Issues removing front control arm/outer ball joints from 
Hub...
       Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie
       Re: [uuc] Alignment Question
       Re: [uuc] window tinting
       [uuc] Suspension Questions (E36)
       [uuc] M3 Fuel Pump Problems
       [uuc] Re:  E30 exhaust recommendation
       [uuc] Re: E30 exhaust recommendation

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:59:17 -0500
From: Bob Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:  [uuc] SOLVED:  Issues removing front control arm/outer ball joints  from 
Hub...

That's the way some of the ones I've done sound. Yeah...sounds like something
broke...luckily...in all cases, it's just been "broke loose". I use a ball joint 
separator:

http://tinyurl.com/hx92

It works.

But, I've probably used a puller like you did in the past...on tie rods. Seems like 
getting
enough material for the jaws to "bite" on and avoiding damaging the rubber boot (if 
that
were a concern) were the only issues...

Bob

>
>
>
>   I started turning and about after 5 turns, the ball joint
> popped out, and I mean it POPPED out.  There was a very loud popping sound, so I
> knew either the ball joint was out, or I broke the hub!  Luckily it was the ball
> joint.  I then started on the other side, and after about 10 minutes of trying
> to use the pickle fork, I decided to just use the puller again.  That side was
> just as easy as the other side with the puller.   My car is now waiting to get
> new front control arms and new M3 offset CA bushings.
>
> Is there any reason why I shouldn't of used the puller?
>
> Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.  This list is a great
> source of information, and from one of the young (and still somewhat
> inexperienced) DIY'r, I appreciated reading this list and all the posts from the
> pro's out there.
>
> Jesse Chamberlain
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:12:59 -0500
From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] <misc> BBS stem caps

Yeah, I have the roundel caps - the dealer tells me kids like them for 
their bikes. I'm on my third set. I'll probably regret this, but  I put 
2/56 set screws in all of 'em this time... --SC

Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) wrote:

>Anybody know where I can get BBS valve stem caps (the newer style that covers
>the whole stem)?  Some clever kid has been taking mine...
>
>- Kevin Jay 
>  '96 328is, red/tan, 78K
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:14:10 -0400
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Carfax

Carfax is similar to the legal system in my mind, it can tell you if a car is 
"guilty", but it can not tell you it is "innocent" like many purport.

Regards,

Rich - use Carfax to only tell me there is/was a problem, not that there are no 
problems.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:19:53 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] [e34] My headlights melted.  

I was thinking about the lighted exhaust tips.  those are cool ;-)

Marco

- -----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Malcolm Reitz
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2003 7:47 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] [e34] My headlights melted. 


[MMR] >PS I *really* appreciate the technical advice of pro
[MMR] >and non pro list members. Keep it up, Kirk. Also, the
[MMR] >level of discourse on this list is so much better than
[MMR] >the usual drivel on the internet and no one posts
[MMR] >about putting lighted valve stems on their phat rides.

And I was just about to ask if purple valve stem lights would look good
on the M5 and or should they match the neon blue color of the windshield
washer jets...


Malcolm
'88 M5
'98 328i

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:43:34 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] SOLVED:  Issues removing front control arm/outer ball joints from 
Hub...

You cheated by using the proper tool.
Gary Derian



> SOLVED!  Car: 0, Me: 1.
>
> I hammered away at the joint for a little while longer, trying to hit the
nut
> straight on, and hitting the CA in different spots to try to loosen the
ball
> joint (maybe about 20 minutes) and still nothing.  So I went out to the
local
> autozone store and bought a two pronged puller, 5 ton, 6", etc.  Since I
had the
> strut off, It was easy to put the two prongs around the hub metal near
where the
> ball joint mounts, and then I placed the center bolt of the puller onto
the ball
> joint bolt.  I started tightening the pulley down, and had to even switch
to my
> 2 ft torque wrench.  I started turning and about after 5 turns, the ball
joint
> popped out, and I mean it POPPED out.  There was a very loud popping
sound, so I
> knew either the ball joint was out, or I broke the hub!  Luckily it was
the ball
> joint.  I then started on the other side, and after about 10 minutes of
trying
> to use the pickle fork, I decided to just use the puller again.  That side
was
> just as easy as the other side with the puller.   My car is now waiting to
get
> new front control arms and new M3 offset CA bushings.
>
> Is there any reason why I shouldn't of used the puller?
>
> Thanks for all of your help, I really appreciate it.  This list is a great
> source of information, and from one of the young (and still somewhat
> inexperienced) DIY'r, I appreciated reading this list and all the posts
from the
> pro's out there.
>
> Jesse Chamberlain
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:59:59 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Checklist for a track newbie

Too high pressure is better than too low.  I suggest you run 2.8 bar all
around.  If that feels good, try lowering a little bit at a time while
watching the tire rollover.  Try dropping the rear to 2.6 or so.

Gary Derian


> E36 320i, 2.0 bar in front, 2.3 in the back as per manufacturer's
> specification. I know 1 bar is way too much, that's why I ask. Must be a
> mistake then...
>
> P.
>
> 1 bar higher inflation is way too much.  Your tire inflation depends on
> the car and tire among other things.  What are your specs and your
> normal tire inflation?
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I'm about to take my white beauty to its first track day! :-)
> >
> > I'm sending the car for a service and overall examination next week,
> > but I'd appreciate any advice about do's and don't's on the racetrack.
>
> > I know about the fire extinguisher, helmet, oil, and masking the
> > headlights with tape... What else do you guys do?
> >
> > They recommend (in the club newsletter) inflating the tyres to 1 bar
> > above normal, why is that? Wouldn't that compromise roadholding or
> > does it make up for the smoother surface of the racetrack?
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > P.
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:01:46 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Alignment Question

Sometimes toe length is measured at the tread surface (front of tire to rear
of tire measured at axle height), sometimes at the wheel rim.  A little
trigonometry makes the conversions.

Gary Derian



> Can someone kindly shed light on the following:
>
> I can understand toe-in when spec'ed as an angle, how do they specify toe
in
> units of length? Difference across a wheel diameter? Across some
'standard'
> length?
>
> TIA,
>
> Sumant
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 10:41:23 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] window tinting

I thought so too, but I can't find it now.  I believe passenger car windows
must transmit 70% or more of available light.  SUVs and such are not
regulated which explains the factory tinted glass available only on light
trucks, not cars.

FMVSS standards do not apply to individuals.

Gary Derian


> Stan,
>    You are correct.  I was under the mistaken impression that FMVSS#205
> included tinting standards.  Many states do, as you pointed out have tint
> standards.  I think that your impression with respect to enforcement is
> also, sadly I add, correct.  I suspect that from the enforcement
standpoint,
> this like so many laws and regulations is an excellent example of those
> instituted to make someone feel good or go away.
>        Best,
>          Ben White/Ocean Springs, MS
>
>  <snip> I am completely unaware of any NHSTA regulations regarding tint.
I
> > believe it is simply state law that rules.  If there are any federal
> > regulations, I doubt anyone enforces them.
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:13:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Suspension Questions (E36)

Greetings all! 

Since we're on the suspension thread I'd like to ask a
few questions.  I'm going to change out the suspension
in my 95 325i w/original sport package(169k) and would
like some advice.  I would like to know what else I
should change besided the shocks, springs, and rear
shock mounts.  My car is a daily driver and I don't do
any track or auto X events.  I have 17" Hammans and
the car tramlines big time.  Would a new set up get
rid of this??  I've been reading about the control
arms.  Should I change these out too?  Or just the
bushings?  I really don't want the ride to get any
harsher but can put up with a little.  I was thinking
of going with the Bilstien/HR set up but now I'm
leaning more towards either Bilstien/Eibach or
Koni/Eibach. I hear the Eibachs are a little more
forgiving when going over potholes or rr tracks. So
what would you all recommend??  Any help, tips, and
advice is very appreciated.  TIA!! 

Manuel Paredes
95 325i more mods to come!
L.A. BMWCCA


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:27:00 -0700
From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] M3 Fuel Pump Problems

I have a friend with a 95 M3 who has gone through 4 fuel pumps in the last 
six weeks.  They all burst the clear plastic-like fuel line tubing on the 
pump.  It is unclear why this is happening but this time he replaced the 
fuel pressure regulator as well.

Anyone have any experience with this type problem in the past?

Thanks,

Mike Holbrook
Spring Valley, CA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 09:27:13 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [uuc] Re:  E30 exhaust recommendation

Hi Dave, I have an exhaust suggestion, although it may not be exactly what
you want to do.  A couple of years ago Grassroots Motorsports Magazine ran
a cat-back muffler comparison test, using a 4 cylinder VW.  Besides all of
the common off-the-shelf cat-back systems, they tested a couple of "generic
fit" mufflers and had an exhaust shop custom-fab the pipes and hangers.
The one that most interested me was the DynaMax Super Turbo muffler.  It
resulted in increased torque and HP, but was not too loud.  If you go this
route, it might help for the shop to use your old pipes and hangers welded
onto the muffler.

The only problem for me is that the tested muffler was a 1 in, 1 out part.
The SuperTurbo isn't available in a 2 in, 2 out configuration that is the
right size for my 325i.  OTOH, you're eta has the right configuration.  I
would expect the total cost of this set-up to be around $200.

http://www.dynomax.com/pass_import.stm

Let us know what you decide to do.

Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
1990 325i w/ hole in muffler that was there when I bought the car in '96
1991 325iA w/ rusting exhaust system from 2 years in MA

>Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 08:59:23 -0400
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: [uuc] E30 exhaust recommendation
>
>Just looking for a good exhaust system without spending Supersprint money
on my eta.  (places to buy?)
>
>Doing my guibo/center support bearing/exhuast.   Anything else that falls
under the "while you're in there" >category?
>
>...given the banality of my question, please reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>Thanks (as always)
>
>Dave
>
>84 ETA.....love it.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2003 11:48:37 -0500
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Re: E30 exhaust recommendation

Dave, first, it's not a banal question. I just went through this myself and spent a 
lot of 
time (too much) in making a decison.  I did get some good advice and am happy 
w/my decision.

I have an '87 325is and considered getting a nice SS exhaust.  But I wasn't ready to 
spend $500+ right now.  Because I needed other work done, I had the shop do it (as 
in Jenny at the Little Car Shop).  I believe it is a Boysen unit.  The other 
recommended one is Eberspecher.  These two are stock replacements, have 
good fit and are considered better than Bosal, Ansa, or some of the others.  The 
only complaint I have is that the exhaust has never been this quiet and it's hard for 
me to adjust as I've always driven by the exhaust note.

Can't say where these units are to be had, but if you're doing it yourself I would 
check the dealer (no complaints for the one I deal with) or BMA (have been very 
happy w/them).

In spite of liking loud exhaust, I accept that the difference in performance for my 
car 
is negligible, if anything.  I would guess the same for yours.  My wife suggested I 
just 
place a microphone at the tailpipe to satisfy my need for noise.

BTW, I like the eta engine and feel too many have sold it short.

HTH

Clarence
West Bend, WI

Dave wrote:
>
>Just looking for a good exhaust system without spending Supersprint money on 
my eta.  (places to buy?)
>
>Doing my guibo/center support bearing/exhuast.   Anything else that falls under the 
"while you're in there" category?
>
>...given the banality of my question, please reply to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>Thanks (as always)
>
>Dave
>
>84 ETA.....love it.

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6599
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