[uucdigest] Tuesday, August 26 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6699
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: [uuc] e30 325iC diff ratio [uuc] Advice-E46 M3 Service Manual [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6698 [uuc] Headlamp Problem RE: [uuc] e30 325iC diff ratio [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... RE: [uuc] Headlamp Problem ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 06:49:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Vince Leo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] e30 325iC diff ratio - --0-1379418359-1061905796=:46141 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Quick question... did the 88 325iC automatic use the 4.10 or 3.73 diff? Vince - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1379418359-1061905796=:46141 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <DIV>Quick question... did the 88 325iC automatic use the 4.10 or 3.73 diff?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Vince</DIV> <DIV><BR> </DIV><p><hr SIZE=1> Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=10469/*http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! SiteBuilder</a> - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1379418359-1061905796=:46141-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 09:48:16 -0400 From: "Bill Heumann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Advice-E46 M3 Service Manual Does the Bentley 3 Series service manual for the E46 cover the M3? The models listed on the cover don't list the M3. If not, does anyone know where I can purchase a service manual? Bill Heumann 2002 E46 M3 1997 E36 328is ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 09:52:46 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: [uucdigest] V3 #6698 - ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [uuc] Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... > Second - I don't blame them for making you come in and getting a low-ball > offer before getting a CASH PAYOUT. You just admitted that you were not > going to spend the $1255 to get your car fixed. You were going to let it > go or fix it for $200 or so. In that light, their offer of $683 is more > than fair. Dennis, how can you remotely consider that fair? Example. You hit me, your at fault. I get an estimate to fix my car at $3000. I choose to just keep the money, use some bondo, fix my car for $9.85 plus my time. It is not your place to say I should have been given a check for $9.85 vs the $3000 in damage you did to my car. There is also a thing called adjusted value. You hit my car, I might decide that I can sell it for a much cheaper price due to my $9.85 repair job, but the $2990 I put in my bank account makes up for the difference in lost value due to YOU hitting and DEVALUING my car. >. Then get it fixed someplace else and pocket the difference. > It is a lot different now, the companies are tired of being ripped off. Do you work for an Insurance company? you must as that is the only way you could make the above statement. Look at their numbers and they have been ripping off for years and years. Why did it take state legistation to reform some of the industry? cause they RIP PEOPLE OFF for profit. > Frankly, I pay a lot to insure my cars and motorcycles and I don't much care > for any practices that drive up my rates. This includes collecting for > repair work not performed. It shoudl not matter at all if the work is performed or not. That is not what insurance is all about. WHen you hit someone, you did $$$ damage to their car. If they choose to use the money for something else and drive a wrecked car, it is their choice, not yours. So if you hit me and I decide to not have my car repaired, I shoudl not be paid anything even though the value of my car has been affected? > As others have said, file a claim with your insurance and get your car fixed > right. They will take care of collecting from the at fault party for you. I > would doubt they will help you put cash in your pocket, however. You say it as if anyone who decides to take a check or cash is some kind of crook? If I choose to repair my car using used parts, my own labor and time, maybe just for the learning and experience, I should be penalized for doing that vs. letting a body shop etc make a profit in the deal that wasn't my fault to begin with? I think if you researched insurance fraud and reason your rates are so high, this would not even be worth a mention. Body shops, adjustors, companies themselves who are cheating people out of millions are the result of your high rates, not innocent people take cash payouts. I always DEMAND to be paid for any wreck where someone hits me. Then I take care of getting the car fixed at my choice, my control. I have never had an issue with extra repairs and I have found that body shops tend to do better work and at a more cost effective manner when an individual is paying vs. insurance. If you ever work in the industry, you will see where waste and added costs come from when a body shops knows an insurance company is paying. There always tends to be a bunch of added little things that add up in price. In fact, when I would go get estimates on a car to get fixed, the first question would be if it was an insurance claim or out of my pocket. I would tell them I was not sure, give me both. The price varies by about 20-40% with the out of pocket being cheaper. Explain that one? Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 07:24:55 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Gendron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Headlamp Problem - --0-1100427159-1061907895=:78296 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I had an unusual occurrence the other day when I stopped to gas-up my 1986 535i. I pulled in, turned off the lights and the engine and filled up. When I fired her back up to pull away the Low Beam Trouble Indicator light was on. I got home and sure enough, the left low beam was out. I replaced the fuse (even though it looked ok), and the problem remained. I replaced the lamp the next day, but still no light and the trouble indicator stayed on. The right low beam works, and both sides (all four) work when in high beam. I broke out my MultiTester and checked the wiring and got these results: Continuity in all headlamp wires; good ground. Yellow/Gray (mine actually looks yellow/red) wire =11.99V; White/Violet wire =0.04V. 11.99V on both sides of fuse when key on and headlamp switch on. >From this I surmised that there is no voltage going from the fusebox to the lamp >along the White/Violet wire, even though there is Continuity in that wire. I took a >piece of wire and jumped from the downstream side of the fuse directly to the >headlamp, and it lit up. But, the Trouble Indicator light stays on, and a fairly loud >buzzing is heard when the jumper wire is employed. This should be a fairly simple >fix, but I am stymied; any suggestions? Thanks. Chris 1986 535i 5sp 193,000 mi on body 28,000 mi on 10-over bored-out rebuild - --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1100427159-1061907895=:78296 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii <DIV> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I had an unusual occurrence the other day when I stopped to gas-up my 1986 535i. I pulled in, turned off the lights and the engine and filled up. When I fired her back up to pull away the Low Beam Trouble Indicator light was on. I got home and sure enough, the left low beam was out. I replaced the fuse (even though it looked ok), and the problem remained. I replaced the lamp the next day, but still no light and the trouble indicator stayed on. The right low beam works, and both sides (all four) work when in high beam.</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I broke out my MultiTester and checked the wiring and got these results: Continuity in all headlamp wires; good ground. Yellow/Gray (mine actually looks yellow/red) wire =11.99V; White/Violet wire =0.04V. 11.99V on both sides of fuse when key on and headlamp switch on.</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>From this I surmised that there is no voltage going from the fusebox to the lamp along the White/Violet wire, even though there is Continuity in that wire. I took a piece of wire and jumped from the downstream side of the fuse directly to the headlamp, and it lit up. But, the Trouble Indicator light stays on, and a fairly loud buzzing is heard when the jumper wire is employed. This should be a fairly simple fix, but I am stymied; any suggestions?</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT></o:p></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Thanks.</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><o:p><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3> </FONT></o:p></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Chris</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>1986 535i</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>5sp</FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>193,000 mi on body </FONT></P> <P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>28,000 mi on 10-over bored-out rebuild</FONT></P></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1> Do you Yahoo!?<br> <a href="http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=10469/*http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com";>Yahoo! SiteBuilder</a> - Free, easy-to-use web site design software - --0-1100427159-1061907895=:78296-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:31:34 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] e30 325iC diff ratio 88 had the 3.73. 325iC produced from 9/88 (89 MY) had 4.10 with automatic. Brett Anderson KMS www.bmwdiffs.com - -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Vince Leo > Quick question... did the 88 325iC automatic use the 4.10 or 3.73 diff? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 09:47:39 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought... I see your point that asking for a cash payout changes the dynamic in negotiating with the insurance company, but I don't think it has much bearing on what's "fair." Whether or not the car is actually repaired does not change the extent of damage, does it? I also pay much more than I would prefer to for insurance of many types -- auto, homeowners, malpractice, etc. Insurance fraud no doubt plays a huge role in driving up rates, but I hardly see how this case qualifies... rss >> >Second - I don't blame them for making you come in and getting a low-ball >offer before getting a CASH PAYOUT. You just admitted that you were not >going to spend the $1255 to get your car fixed. You were going to let it >go or fix it for $200 or so. In that light, their offer of $683 is more >than fair. > >I think if you had told the insurance company who you wanted to fix your >car they could have confirmed the estimate with your shop and worked with >them directly to shave off some of the cost. You would have had your car >fixed correctly and by a good shop. > >It is like "full replacement" home owner's insurance, you don't get the >full value until you replace the item. In the "old days" everyone used to >do this - get 3 quotes from the highest price places in town and collect >on the lowest one. Then get it fixed someplace else and pocket the >difference. >It is a lot different now, the companies are tired of being ripped off. > >Frankly, I pay a lot to insure my cars and motorcycles and I don't much >care >for any practices that drive up my rates. This includes collecting for >repair work not performed. > >As others have said, file a claim with your insurance and get your car >fixed >right. They will take care of collecting from the at fault party for you. I >would doubt they will help you put cash in your pocket, however. > >Dennis >330i silver/black/manual/sp/pp/xenon/cd (for now) > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: Get 6 months for $9.95/month. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 10:48:08 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Headlamp Problem Power travels from the headlight switch to the low beam relay. That's obviously ok, as both lights are controlled by the same circuit at this point. >From the low beam relay, power spits, inside the fuse box, to fuse 3 for left and fuse 2 for right. The downstream side of these fuses go to individual circuits in the low beam check relay, and then on to the individual lights. The buzzing you're hearing is probably the low beam check relay taking a fit. Low beam check relay is attached to the outside of the fuse box. Original location was on the outboard side of the fuse box, relay closest to the front of the car. Wire colours (to confirm you have the right relay) are yellow/white, yellow/black, yellow/blue, yellow/red, yellow/grey, brown. Try unplugging the relay and jumping the yellow/white pin to the yellow/red pin. That's the left headlight circuit through the low beam check relay. If, when you jump those pins, the left light works fine (right won't, unless you jump it's circuit too) then you have a bad low beam check relay. The above will work for you if it's truly the left low beam that's out, but your description below is confusing because the wire colours you refer to are right low and right high beams. Brett Anderson KMS - -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Chris Gendron > the left low beam was out. I replaced the fuse (even though it looked ok) > , and the problem remained. I replaced the lamp the next day, but still no light >and the trouble indicator stayed on. The right low beam works, and both sides >(all four) work when in high beam. >I broke out my MultiTester and checked the wiring and got these results: > Continuity in all headlamp wires; good ground. Yellow/Gray >(mine actually looks yellow/red) wire =11.99V; White/Violet wire =0.04V. >11.99V on both sides of fuse when key on and headlamp switch on. >From this I surmised that there is no voltage going from the fusebox to the lamp >along the White/Violet wire, even though there is Continuity in that wire. I took a > piece of wire and jumped from the downstream side of the fuse directly to the >headlamp, and it lit up. But, the Trouble Indicator light stays on, and a fairly loud > buzzing is heard when the jumper wire is employed. This should be a fairly simple > fix, but I am stymied; any suggestions? >1986 535i ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6699 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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