[uucdigest]          Sunday, August 31 2003          Volume 03 : Number 6716



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In this BMW UUC Digest:

       RE: [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought...
       [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions
       RE: [uuc] Sanity Regained, It's Not Me, It's the Diff <longish>
       [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...
       RE: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...
       Re: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...
       Re: [uuc] Aluminum M52
       [uuc] Its //M3 Power Steering Hose Clamp Time
       [uuc] 2000 M5, back on ebay, no reserve

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 18:21:26 -0400
From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] RE: Someone hit my BMW! Advice sought...

Well, I'm a little stunned.  When I first posted on this topic, I praised
Neil for most of the points he made in his post, but took some exception to
one of them.  I have since responded twice, very politely both times, and
have just read a reply that leaves me a bit speechless.  Well, I'll leave it
mostly alone, and address only one thing that Neil stated.

>Bottom line is if you think the car that you may buy is not repaired
properly, then don't buy it. No one is forcing you.
Diminished value is based upon the premise that a buyer will not pay as
much for a car if it is known to have been in an accident. If the market
were as selective as you make out, no damaged cars would ever be bought
or sold, yet the majority of the cars on the road have been damaged and
repaired. You'd probably wet yourself if you found out how many cars are
damaged and repaired before they leave the factory or the dealer's
showroom. Try to claim diminished value there.
________________

Neil, first, I very strongly doubt that a "majority" of the cars have been
damaged and repaired.  A significant percentage, to be sure, but more than
50%?  No way.

Second, never in my replies did I say that damaged and repaired cars are
"never bought or sold" -- I was only making the point that damaged and
repaired cars are WORTH LESS than the same car that hasn't been damaged and
repaired.

Third, sitting here after "wetting my pants," I can nevertheless state that
I know that many cars are damaged and repaired before the first buyer takes
delivery, and (a) if a buyer actually KNEW that his/her car had been damaged
and repaired, and had the option to take exactly the same car that HADN'T
been damaged and repaired, he/she would almost certainly take the untouched
one; and (b) BMW lost a class action law suit by disgruntled buyers who
wanted compensation for for diminished value for their "new" cars that had
been damaged and repainted (BMW of N. Am., Inc. v. Gore, 517 U.S. 559, 116
S.Ct. 1589, 1593, 134 L.Ed.2d 809 (1996) ($4 million punitive damage verdict
for failing to disclose that new car had been repainted by the
manufacturer)).

LASTLY -- speak up, UUC list members.  Is there a SINGLE PERSON OUT HERE,
***  JUST ONE *** (aside from "Neil"), who would voluntarily buy a damaged
and (PERFECTLY) repaired car (either a major collision OR a tiny bit of
damage) if you could buy the same exact but untouched car, for the same
price?  Please, please, speak up and tell us why.

vty,

- --Dennis

[Private message to John H. - you're smarter than me, and I'm taking your
advice now... :-) ]






.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 16:30:30 -0700
From: Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Cooper S autocross impressions

I had a chance to autocross my new Cooper S with Golden Gate chapter 
this weekend.

Here are my impressions:

Good stuff
- ----------
1) Car has lots of power, as in lots and lots of torque and power.
2) Suspension is very good.
3) There is some body roll but better than any stock suspension 
including my E36 M3
4) Electro-hydraulic steering works well
5) traction control stays off when you turn it off (what a concept)
6) Still no torque steer unless you turn the wheel full lock and hammer 
the throttle

Bad stuff
- ---------
1) The run-flat tires (Pirelli 205/45/17) are horrible, no grip
until I lowered the pressures to low 30s.
2) Having an open diff is terrible in this car, the body leans, the 
inside tire unloads
and you have absolutely no power. I drove the entire course on at most 
3/4 throttle. The course
was well designed but it had only one straight section and all high 
speed sweepers mixed
with nice tight stuff.
3) Could use bigger bars front and rear.
4) Stock exhaust drones somewhat

I think having stickier tires would have made a huge difference in 
terms of being able to get on the throttle
but the car really really needs a limited-slip diff.

I guess I am going to have to put in a quaife at some point.

Bora

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 22:08:07 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Sanity Regained, It's Not Me, It's the Diff <longish>

This diff sounds like it's out of an E30 318i.  Easy way to check is count
the bolts holding the side seal carrier in.  4 bolts=small, 6 bolts=medium.

As long as it was from an 84 or 85 year model, it will bolt right into your
car with no modifications.

However, it is a smaller unit, it has smaller bearings, gears and clutches,
so will not last as long as the correct medium diff will.

If the diff is truly a 3.91, it came from an 84 automatic.

Brett Anderson
KMS


> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott & Charlotte
> Miller
> A few days ago I was questioning my sanity and mechanical skills
> when I was
> not able to install side seals in a used 3.91:1 LSD I bought off the
> Internet for my 1990 325i.  Now my sanity is restored, and my skills are,
> um, less questionable.
> Back home, I put the back of the car up on jack stands and slide
> underneath
> with the "new" diff and a tape measure.  Sure enough, the two diffs are
> different.  (The similar designs had led me to believe that they were the
> same, but now I know more.  Oh well.)  The rear covers are
> different - on my
> car, the back of the rear bushing is on the same plane with the
> back of the
> cover.  On the replacement diff, the rear bushing sits about 1.5 inches to
> the rear of the cover.  The diff in my car is about 11.5 inches long, not
> including the cover.  The replacement is more like 10.5 inches long.  If I
> line up the rear bushings, the output shaft openings appear to be
> in pretty

> much the same place.  But the input flange is not in the same place.
>
> I remember back when I bought the diff, I asked the seller what car it was
> out of.  He said it came from an E30 325is.  I was guessing that it must
> have been an automatic, as the 3.91:1 ratio was used with some E30
> automatics.  Now I wonder if the guy just told me what I wanted to hear?
> Too bad so much time has passed since I bought it, I'm sure I'm stuck with
> the thing.
>
> So at this point, my only question (and probably Brett is the only one who
> will be able to answer, or is certainly the most qualified of the various
> list members) is:  Is there some combination of parts that will allow this
> diff to work properly in my car, or am I SOL?  Like, would it require a
> different or modified drive shaft?  Will this thing even bolt to my
> subframe?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 21:56:11 -0500
From: "dlejune" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...

to use 1qt of that horridly expensive synthetic oil every 2000 miles??
Damn!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 00:29:07 -0400
From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...

More or less... there was a technical update for 3/00 and newer build
M5s that revised some internal parts (piston rings, as I recall) to
reduce the oil consumption.   

It's not necessarily an indication of something wrong, and the update
was done simply to alleviate customer annoyance.

To deal with this, pre-3/00 cars are specified by BMW to use the
Castrol RS 10W60, specially formulated for the M5.  BMW seems to be
adamant that only this oil should be used.

- - Rob

- ---- Original Message ----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...
>to use 1qt of that horridly expensive synthetic oil every 2000 miles?
>Damn!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Aug 2003 22:47:46 -0700
From: Bora Akyol (BMW) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Is it normal for a 2000M5 with 32k miles...

I think this is what I heard from other M5/M3 owners as well,
but don't feel bad, my colleagues 02 C4S also goes through a quart
every couple thousand miles.

My car goes through a quart every 40 miles, but only when racing :-)

Bora
89 M3 #236 JP

On Saturday, Aug 30, 2003, at 19:56 US/Pacific, dlejune wrote:

> to use 1qt of that horridly expensive synthetic oil every 2000 miles??
> Damn!
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 17:04:05 +0000
From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [uuc] Aluminum M52

A few wrote:

>Only a few of the M52 are "made of aluminium" and those are mostly Z3 
>engines, the rest are iron blocks.

So only a few M52s are aluminum? So I guess BMW made only a few E46s in 
model years '99/'00? The M52tu in early US E46 were aluminum block. During 
the same time I would presume the Z3s also had the aluminum block M52 as 
well as the M52 equipped E39.

Gilbert
1999 328i with aluminum block M52tu b28.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 10:14:35 -0700
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] Its //M3 Power Steering Hose Clamp Time

Thanks to these lists I've learned there is a congenital defect in the 
power steering hose clamps on the E36 which begins at ~75k miles.
At 88k miles, yesterday I heard the whine of a dry ps pump.  A matching 
drip stain on the garage floor.  If you wonder why I didn't catch this 
drip sooner, its been a while since I got to see the garage floor under 
where the car goes since the car is always parked there. :-)
     Where exactly are the clamps I need to replace?  How many are there 
total?
     Do I cut the hoses, effectively making them shorter, and reclamp 
them at the new end?
     Or can I remove the crimped on factory clamps and clamp over the 
exisitng hose material?
     What size are the clamps I need?  Just to be sure, these are 
standard hose clamps, right?

Please email directly as well as posting to the digest.  Jack won't be 
allowed back On The Road until he's all mended.
TIA,

'jk

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2003 19:32:57 -0400
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [uuc] 2000 M5, back on ebay, no reserve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6131&item=2429721506

It's up again guys.  The last high bidder changed his mind, without ever
seeing the car.... Decided to buy a tank, umm, motorcycle instead.

No reserve.  High bidder takes it home.  My bet is that it will sell for
under $41K, given the response it got last time.

Brett Anderson
KMS

------------------------------

End of [uucdigest] V3 #6716
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