[uucdigest] Sunday, September 28 2003 Volume 03 : Number 6784
_________________________________________________________________ | | Search the ARCHIVES: | http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] | | Visit Richard Nott's Ultimate BMW Database: | http://www.bmwdatabase.com | | For all available Digest commands including unsubscribe/subscribe, | visit the BMW UUC Digest page: http://www.uucdigest.com | | Send SUBMISSIONS to [EMAIL PROTECTED] | Complaints? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you must. | Technical Problems? Send 'em to [EMAIL PROTECTED] |__________________________________________________________________ In this BMW UUC Digest: Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL [uuc] What's In da Muffler? RE: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case Re: [uuc] PARTS WANTED: CLUTCH FOR 1991 M5 Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL [uuc] Re: What's In da Muffler? [uuc] Paint Chips Re: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case [uuc] Re: front end paint chips RE: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 19:31:48 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL I spent 2+ hours today listening to a presentation by Roy Howell from Redline Lubricants (he was quite enthusiastic and entertaining, BTW), so I'll now offer up this counterpoint to Gary's advice ("Jane, you ignorant slut"). Roy said the slipperiest stuff you can put in the differential is best, and testing has showed that you can save several HP in driveline losses with synthetic diff lube. BUT, he said that you shouldn't use the thinist, most slippery stuff in a manual gearbox. He said some friction is needed for the synchronizers to grab quicker. Synchros that grab too slowly result in slow shifting, and then you'd complain that the gearbox felt "balky". Maybe Gary just never tries to shift very fast. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:14:52 -0400 >From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL > >Viscous oil in the gearbox absorbs power. Thin as possible is the ticket. >I've had good luck adding MoS2 to Mobil 1 ATF in my gearboxes. I wouldn't >do it if my gearbox had clutch material on the syncro rings. I've done this >with both brass and steel synchro ring boxes and they shift very well. > >Difficulty shifting into first or reverse when stopped may only mean the >gears have stopped turning. > >Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 19:39:31 -0700 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] What's In da Muffler? I've been thinking (for about 7 years) about replacing the muffler under my '90 325i, 'cause it has a hole in it. It seems that the choices are: Stock (quiet, fits well, lasts a long time, but is heavy) Aftermarket stainless (more expensive than I want to put on my $3500 E30, but is lighter, sounds nice and will give a small power gain) Aftermarket inexpensive (also lighter and nicer sounding, but won't last more than 2 years, maybe 3 'cause I'm in Calif.) I also thought about those mufflers that Dinan used to sell a few years back. Several that I know of were modified factory mufflers. Apparently Dinan's folks opened them up, removed something that was in there, and welded them back up again. The result was, supposedly, more power. I guess a slight weight saving was possible too. So I wondered, if I opened up a stock E30 325i muffler, what would I see in there? And would I know what to remove to gain a little power without making it overly loud? So has anyone done this? Got any pix? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA 1990 325i w/ hole in muffler 1991 325iA also w/ hole in muffler ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 22:40:57 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case Yes, the guts are the same. It will need to be set up, you can't just transfer everything over and expect it to work. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > While on the diff topic, > > I've been offered the opportunity to buy a E30 M3 Group A aluminum diff > case for my show car. > > Are the guts the same? Will it mount to a regular subframe? > > Ed ____________________________________ 100% Spam Control by SpamEnder Free Download and Trial http://www.spamender.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 22:47:55 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] PARTS WANTED: CLUTCH FOR 1991 M5 I got mine from the local dealer. The pedal effort is lighter than my 325i clutch. Gary Derian > Marco, et al: > > Perhaps you already know this, but there are various > updates on the E34 M5 clutch. Maybe the older types > no longer exist, but it is worth making sure you have > the udated version. > > The way I understand it, there are at least 2 types, > 91 and 92-. My clutch is not as stiff as the 91 cars. > Gary Derian's new clutch is as light as a Honda. It > may be a third type or it may be that he installed it > well with lapping disc to input shaft and such to make > it work smoothly. > > Neil Deshpande > > *** > > Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 12:10:26 -0700 > From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: RE: [uuc] PARTS WANTED: CLUTCH FOR 1991 M5 > > Funny. Never had a problem with them. Plus customer > service was > great. > > Oh well. > > Marco > > - -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of > Kit Wetzler > Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 10:51 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [uuc] PARTS WANTED: CLUTCH FOR 1991 M5 > > > > http://www.buyclutch.com/ > > Highly recommended. prices afaik can't be beat. > > I'd highly recommend staying as far away from these > guys as possible. > Pacific > BMW has the M5 clutch kit in stock for $280. I just > did a group buy on > the > UUC flywheels and some of the people that bought from > me ordered from > Buyclutch.com in April/May and STILL haven't received > their clutches. > > It's only $40 difference. > > -kit > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 23:10:25 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL I can't argue with that logic. Synchro rings have grooves machined into them to cut through the oil film and grab the cone. Thin oil gets cut through easiest. Thin oil is adequate for lubricating the gear teeth and bearings. It took him 2 hours to say that? Gary Derian > I spent 2+ hours today listening to a presentation by Roy Howell from > Redline Lubricants (he was quite enthusiastic and entertaining, BTW), so > I'll now offer up this counterpoint to Gary's advice ("Jane, you ignorant > slut"). Roy said the slipperiest stuff you can put in the differential is > best, and testing has showed that you can save several HP in driveline > losses with synthetic diff lube. BUT, he said that you shouldn't use the > thinist, most slippery stuff in a manual gearbox. He said some friction is > needed for the synchronizers to grab quicker. Synchros that grab too slowly > result in slow shifting, and then you'd complain that the gearbox felt > "balky". > > Maybe Gary just never tries to shift very fast. > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > >Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 12:14:52 -0400 > >From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: Re: [uuc] First time with Redline MTL > > > >Viscous oil in the gearbox absorbs power. Thin as possible is the ticket. > >I've had good luck adding MoS2 to Mobil 1 ATF in my gearboxes. I wouldn't > >do it if my gearbox had clutch material on the syncro rings. I've done > this > >with both brass and steel synchro ring boxes and they shift very well. > > > >Difficulty shifting into first or reverse when stopped may only mean the > >gears have stopped turning. > > > >Gary Derian > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 21:48:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: What's In da Muffler? Scott, Legend has it that the Dinan muffler for the E28 was a modified 524td piece. Interesting stuff if this is true! Oh wait, maybe that was Metric Mechanic. . . I would just cut the muffler open and completely gut it. Who needs noise cancellation anyway? If you do that, you can gut the cat, too. Do two gutted exhaust pieces on a BMW make you a taxidermist? . . . okay, bad joke. :-) Brad Couvillon '85 Euro 535i <-- going into hibernation 'til summer '87 528e <-- just picked 'er up today. Woohoo! www.fatdaddybmw.com - --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I also thought about those mufflers that Dinan used > to sell a few years > back. Several that I know of were modified factory > mufflers. Apparently > Dinan's folks opened them up, removed something that > was in there, and > welded them back up again. The result was, > supposedly, more power. I guess > a slight weight saving was possible too. > > So I wondered, if I opened up a stock E30 325i > muffler, what would I see in > there? And would I know what to remove to gain a > little power without > making it overly loud? > > So has anyone done this? Got any pix? > > Scott Miller > GGC BMW CCA > 1990 325i w/ hole in muffler > 1991 325iA also w/ hole in muffler __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 04:17:04 -0500 From: "David Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Paint Chips I have an Avus Blue, 95 M3 with 125,000 that has never been repainted, and is still in beautiful condition, paint wise. I touch up the paint every year in the Spring. I usually have chips from running on the track, but for the first 6 years of the cars life, it was a daily driver, including through Minnesota winters. If you look closely at the front end, it definitely needs to be repainted, but by touching it up, it helps hide the chips. I have always kept a good coat of wax on the car, and always had it buffed and any dings pressed out and bad paint repaired each Spring. I don't drive it much now except on the track and an occasional outing, so it does not take much maintenance anymore. I bought the small touch up kit from BMW that has the color and the clear coat. To do small sand chips, I use only the color and a very small artist brush to dab a small amount of paint into the pit. For larger chips, I follow the procedure found in this link - http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=8 This site also has other good car care advice. I repaired a sizeable chip in my hood, and only I, and someone that is really looking for it will know that it is there, using this technique. Hope this helps. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 10:10:41 -0400 From: "Robert G. Conway" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case Brett, It's a relief to hear that someone (knowledgeable) has experienced a problem with these bolts loosening. Thanks for the torque spec, which I found in TIS finally. BMW calls this "cover to diff case" - odd description, but it is in the LSD subsection. Thanks also for the bolt PN - this is not listed with the diff in the ETK, but in standard parts. Did you pull this from memory or am I missing a different search vector into ETK? Thanks again. Bob ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 07:32:15 -0700 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [uuc] Re: front end paint chips Gregg Siegfried wrote: >After a recent 3 day blast across the country in my >Avus Blue E39 M5, I am dismayed (but not surprised) >to see lots of chips in the paint on the hood and front >end of the car. What are the options for repairing this >damage? There are some good tips on touching up paint chips at the link below: http://www.carcareonline.com/howto.aspx I have been buying car care stuff from Car Care on line for years and in addition to the great info on the site they have good prices and great service. I don't have the time or patience to follow the full step by step process on the Car Care On Line site and for most chips. I simply dip a toothpick in OEM touch up paint and touch the chip and let gravity allow the paint to flow off the toothpick and in to the chip. I used to have a guy in the Bay Area that would come out and do paintless dent repair and also to touch up with my OEM paint but his cell phone number changed and I can't find him any more. Does anyone have a good paintless dent repair and/or touch up guy in the SF Bay Area? Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 P.S. A co-worker with a new M3 just told me that BMW was not selling touch up paint any more due to some kind of "class action suite". Has anyone heard anything about this? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 11:54:10 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: RE: [uuc] Now that we're in the diff...was re: opening up the diff case The terminology BMW uses is correct. It's the terminology that I, and most of the rest of the end users, use. A differential is the little thing inside the big cast iron case. It does not include a ring or pinion gear, or any bearings, etc. It is either an open or a limited slip differential that is then installed, with gears, inside the "final drive" assembly. Therefore, BMw's reference to differential case cover is correct. Final drive housing cover is the aluminum rear cover that we traditionally call the "diff cover". The bolt part number can be found in older parts fiche, and probably in the Mobile Traditions section of the ETK CD. The main catalogue of the ETK reflects current part numbers only, and this bolt is one of the many internal diff parts that BMW has chosen to withdraw from sale. Although it still exists in their parts stream, to be purchased, if you have the number. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- >On Behalf Of Robert G. Conway > It's a relief to hear that someone (knowledgeable) has experienced a > problem with these bolts loosening. Thanks for the torque spec, which I > found in TIS finally. BMW calls this "cover to diff case" - odd > description, but it is in the LSD subsection. Thanks also for the bolt > PN - this is not listed with the diff in the ETK, but in standard parts. > Did you pull this from memory or am I missing a different search vector > into ETK? Thanks again. ____________________________________ 100% Spam Control by SpamEnder Free Download and Trial http://www.spamender.com/ ------------------------------ End of [uucdigest] V3 #6784 *************************** | | In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. |________________________________________ | Please visit these UUC-approved BMW parts vendors/service providers: | (listed alphabetically) | | Autoscope-Motorsports - http://www.autoscope-motorsports.com | |==================================================== | | Koala MotorSport . BMW technical information, special tool sales/rental | http://www.koalamotorsport.com | |==================================================== | | Taylor BMW - http://www.taylorbmw.com - Doc Bimmer! | |==================================================== | Turner Motorsport Inc . 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