JoeMuc2009 wrote: 
> It is likely that the display filament power supply circuitry in your
> Boom has failed. Many units suffer from this after some years. The
> display itself is also wearing out, but if it goes all dark or starts to
> fade from the outside edges towards the center, and sometimes recovers
> after a few minutes of being powered-off, it's the filament supply with
> 95% chance.
> A VFD is basically an electron tube, albeit a pretty complex one. In
> operation, it needs the filament (the six thin wires close to the front
> side of the display) to emit electrons, so it needs to be heated. This
> happens at a low voltage and a rather high power. The filament is fed +5
> Volts on the left side and between 2 and 3 Volts on the right, creating
> a voltage drop between 2 and 3 volts. The higher this voltage drop is,
> the more electrons are emitted (and the brighter the filament wires are
> glowing). Besides the filament glowing brighter, the display's pixels
> will also become brighter.
> In 9 out of 10 cases, the failure is in supply for the the right side of
> the filament. Instead of keeping a voltage around 2.5V, it ramps up to
> 5.5V so it's even higher than the left side. This stops electron
> emission gradually or completely. VFD experts at Noritake (the
> manufacturer of the displays used in the Squeezebox range) call this
> "filament starvation".
> A Boom in operation has some hidden SMD parts behind the display that
> get red-hot. I am pretty sure that the failure point can be found
> somewhere in that area, however, it is practically impossible to find
> suitable replacement components because the SMD markings don't tell
> exactly enough what each component is for.
> While I could not find a way to repair the root cause yet, I found a
> workaround that turned out to work fine for many people who sent me
> their Boom for a display replacement. The fix is this:
> 
> 22025
> 
> I am using three run-of-the-mill diodes, each of which has a known
> voltage drop of around 0.7V. Three of them in series make a total
> voltage drop of about 2.1V. I am using them to pull down the voltage on
> the filament's right side. Diodes are needed because current must not
> flow from GND towards the filament pins. GND can be found in each of the
> screwholes so that is an ideal point to solder (as long as you leave
> enough room for the screw).
> The diodes can be packed together closely, shrink-wrapped, and hidden on
> the backside of the board.
> This little trick ensures that voltages on the right will never exceed
> ~3V as 2.1V are always subtracted by the diodes. So even if the
> gone-crazy Boom circuitry is sending +5.5V in, we will make 3.4 out of
> it which is in the acceptable boundaries. 2.9 Volts are still fine,
> actually we should just stay below ~4 Volts on the right to ensure a
> voltage drop big enough for the whole thing to work.
> The fix works for all brightness levels also. I found that an intact
> Boom is regulating the right side of the filament with different
> voltages, depending on the selected brightness. It does not make much
> difference though if we use diodes to make kind of a fixed voltage out
> of it.
> So you might give this a try, because this will help you a lot more than
> a new display that would also stay dark if the power supply circuit is
> broken :D
> 
> Oh, by the way, the image may suggest that you need to connect the
> diodes to the middle pin of the 3-pin block at the right side of the
> display. Not quite, all these three pins are connected, inside the
> display as well as on the PCB, so you can best solder the first diode
> across all three pins to ensure a perfect connection.
> 
> Cheers,
> Joe

Why not putting just a single Zener of say 2.5V to produce the voltage
gap?



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