JoeMuc2009 wrote: > Hi Philippe, > > to be honest, I never cared much about it. Even if we found the failing > part, replacing it would only end in the replacement failing again some > day. The circuitry needs an adjustment to eventually stabilize for long > term operation. But that's definitely out of my range right now, I'm not > good at reverse engineering and schematics will never become available. > I just noticed that I never took a good photo from the Boom PCB's front > side when the display was off. The only picture I have is in the > attachment, the suspects being marked by the yellow box. The area is > very close to the right-side connection of the filament wire, and > usually hidden behind the display. One of the parts is getting really > really hot (beyond my IR camera's 105°C limit). I'll have to check the > voltages and currents in a defective and a working Boom to compare them > - once I get to it. I also never took temperature measurements in a > working Boom so it may be by design that this red-hot part operates at > such a level. We'll see. > It's probably an overloaded MosFET or a shorting capacitor that causes > the issue. > > Regards, > Joe
ah crap, these are under the LCD, so that makes is a really painful fix. I was thinking about the current drained 100% of the time by the 3 diodes. And I would have a hard time to agree that you are not good at reverse engineering, come-on! :) Cheers LMS 7.7, 7.8 and 7.9 - 5xRadio, 3xBoom, 4xDuet, 1xTouch, 1 SB2. Sonos PLAY:3, PLAY:5, Marantz NR1603, JBL OnBeat, XBoxOne, XBMC, Foobar2000, ShairPortW, JRiver 21, 2xChromecast Audio, Chromecast v1 and v2, , Pi B3, B2, Pi B+, 2xPi A+, Odroid-C1, Odroid-C2, Cubie2, Yamaha WX-010, AppleTV 4, Airport Express, GGMM E5 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ philippe_44's Profile: http://forums.slimdevices.com/member.php?userid=17261 View this thread: http://forums.slimdevices.com/showthread.php?t=109374
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