Griddle-Fried Breads (Paranthas)
Paranthas differ considerably from other Indian breads. They are the
enriched, griddle-fried breads that Indians couldn't imagine living without.
The common factor in just about all paranthas is some measure of oil,
butter, ghee, or shortening mixed into the dough, and then some more that is
used for individual pan-frying. Authentically, paranthas are made on a
tava-griddle, but they can also be made on an ordinary pancake griddle (of
any size).
Unfortunately, these objects of deep affection, especially the more
elaborate versions, exemplify the adage: That which tastes so good, must be
bad for you. While possibly transcendant for the soul, the heart may not
appreciate the fat that is used. So, my recipes use the least amount of fat
possible, but if you are watch ing your health, eat these breads sparingly
or save them for when you are allowing yourself some indulgence.
The simplest paranthas are made with whole wheat and water dough and
minimal fat, such as Basic Griddle-Fried Breads (page 581). The next kind
are slightly more elaborate affairs made with ghee (or any other fat),
spices, herbs, and vegetables worked into the dough, such as Griddle-Fried
Spinach and Red Bell Pepper Breads (page 582). Then come the kind that are
layered (lachaedar), and flaky (khasta), such as Griddle-Fried Layered Green
Chile Pepper Breads (page 585) and Griddle-Fried Mughlai Breads with Almonds
and Poppy Seeds (page 586).
Requiring a little more work, but well worth the effort, are yet another
level of parantha breads-the stuffed kind, filled with every imaginable
vegetable, dal, and meat.
And finally, there are the stuffed sweet paranthas, oozing with ghee or
butter and melted sugars- jaggery (the British term for Indian brown sugar,
gur), or regular table sugar.
Health notes: Paranthas can be cooked like a chapati-without any fat in the
dough or any frying. Such paranthas are lightly basted with butter before
serving. This renders a lighter, healthier parantha, such as My Healthy
Griddle-Fried Mashed Potato Breads (page 583).
All parantha breads, even the stuffed kind, can also be made in the oven,
like naan. Roll out the paranthas following any of the recipes, and then,
instead of cooking them on the tava (griddle), place them on lightly greased
baking trays and grill as for Basic Oven-Grilled Leavened Breads (page 594).
Chapati breads can also be made in a similar manner, but you have to roll
them much thicker, or they will dry out.
Basic Parantha (paranthas)
Layered paranthas are a culinary blessing to the novice Indian bread maker.
Because a new daughter-in-law making chapatis may be judged by a critical
mother in-law -"they're not round, they didn't puff up," she might
say-paranthas are an easier choice of bread to work with. They need not be
perfect rounds, or puff up like chapatis.
However, like all breads, you do need to have a good hand with the dough, so
that the resulting bread is all the things paranthas should be-soft in the
inside, crisp on the outside, with distinct layers. You want each layer to
be distinct and adhere to each other, but not disappear into each other, yet
you don't want the parantha too dry and flaky so the lay ers are rough on
the inside of the mouth. It is cus tomary and a sign of affection to
slightly crumple up a freshly made parantha before serving. This releases
each layer, and allows the ghee (or oil) that is used for basting to seep
into every crevice. (Use a towel to crumple; the parantha may be too hot.)
Shaping Paranthas
Paranthas can be formed into triangles, squares, or rounds. For each of
these, roll the dough into a circle, baste the top of the circle with oil
(ghee or butter) then fold it (for triangles or squares) or roll and shape
it (for circles) into the required shape.
To Make a Layered Triangle
1. Wirh lightly oiled clean hands, divide the dough equally into the
required number of portions and cover with foil to prevent drying. Working
with each portion separately, flatten into a disc with your fingertips,
generously coat with flour, and roll into a 5- to 6-inch circle.
2. Brush the top surface lightly with oil, sprinkle on the spices, herbs, or
vegetables, if you are using them, then sprinkle abour 1 teaspoon dry flour
over the spices and fold in half, forming a semi-circle.
3. Brush the top of the semi-circle with oil and fold in half once again,
forming a triangle. Flatten this triangle into a larger triangle with your
fingertips, coat it with flour once again, and roll it into a 6- to 7-inch
triangle, taking care to maintain its shape.
To Make a Layered Square
1. Divide the dough into the required number of portions. Working with each
portion separately, flat ten into a disc with your fingertips, coat
generously with flour, and roll into a 5- to 6-inch circle.
2. Brush the top surface lightly with oil, sprinkle on the spices, herbs, or
vegetables, if you are using them, then sprinkle about 1 teaspoon dry flour
on top.
3. In your mind, divide the circle into 3 portions lengthwise. Fold 1/3 over
the center portion (making a D-shape), then fold the exposed portion toward
the center, placing it on top of the first one. You should now have a long,
triple-folded rectangle.
4. Brush the top surface of this rectangle with oil and fold it one more
time, bringing the two smaller edges toward the center, placing one over the
other, to make a small square. Flatten this square into a larger square with
your fingertips, coat it with flour, and roll it out into a 6- to 7-inch
square, taking care to maintain its shape.
To Make a Layered Circle
Method 1
1. Divide the dough into the required number of portions. Working with each
portion separately, flat ten into a disc with your fingertips, coat with
flour, and roll it into a 5- to 6-inch circle.
2. Brush the top surface lightly with oil, sprinkle on the spices, herbs, or
vegetables, if you are using them, then sprinkle about 1 teaspoon dry flour
over the spices, and roll it into a rope 7 to 8 inches long and Yz inch in
diameter. Brush the rope with oil.
3. Starting from one end, wind the rope in a spiral fashion into a coil,
with all sides touching. Flatten this coil with your fingertips and coat it
with flour, then roll it out into a 6- to 7-inch circle.
Method 2
1. Roll the dough into a 5- to 6-inch circle. Brush the top surface lightly
with oil, sprinkle on the spices, herbs, or vegetables, if you are using
them, then sprinkle about 1 teaspoon dry flour over the spices. 2. Make a
cut from the center to the edge (along a radius), then start rolling the
dough up from the cut edge sideways around the center, ending at the sec
ond edge, forming a cone.
3. Brush the cone lightly with oil, then press the pointed end into the
wider, rounder end to form a disc. Coat this disc with flour, and roll into
a 6- to 7-inch circle again.
1000 Indian Recipes
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