Correction--in my second paragraph below--I meant "...ruin your steam line."  
In other words, the copper line that comes to the back of the assembly.
b

Sent from my apple IIe

On Jun 26, 2014, at 9:07, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:

> Depending on where it's leaking...you have five possible connections.
> 
> In all cases, you must support the valve assembly with one wrench while 
> tightening something else with another wrench.  Otherwise you will twist the 
> valve assembly and ruin your water line.
> 
> Also, do this with the machine COLD, unless you like steam burns!
> 
> 1--The valve assembly attaches inside the machine to the water line.  If 
> memory serves, this is a flare fitting, meaning it has no gasket and seals 
> via compression.  The line is copper (soft) and so it shouldn't take much.
> 
> 2--The chrome nut/thread that the water line attaches to is screwed to the 
> valve housing, also with a flare fitting.  This is not normally removed for 
> service, etc. and I'd be surprised if it's leaking.  If you can't get this 
> one to seal, you could add teflon tape to the threads.
> 
> 3--The valve stem itself (i.e. the part that the black star knob is attached 
> to) has two o-rings on its shaft, as well as a white nylon seat at its end.  
> The white nylon seal commonly fails due to overtightening.  You can carefully 
> pry the white nylon seal out and turn it over to extend its life.  The 
> o-rings don't fail often in my experience, but they should be easily found at 
> the local hardware store and/or online at Chris Coffee, WLL, Espresso Parts, 
> etc.  If possible, put a little food-grade silicon grease on the o-rings 
> before reassembly.
> 
> 4--the chrome threaded cap that goes over/around the valve stem does not seal 
> anything--it just acts to complete the assembly and to keep the valve stem 
> from being able to screw out all the way (giving the user a straight jet of 
> steam in the face).
> 
> 5--The wand itself has a white nylon gasket between the big nut that holds 
> the wand in place, and the valve assembly.  Again, a pretty rare failure, but 
> it has happened to me once in 6 years or so.
> 
> For me, the most likely culprits would be #3 above.  A failed nylon seal 
> shows up as water dribbling out of the end of the wand all the time.  Failed 
> o-rings show up as water dribbling out from behind the star knob.  Also check 
> #5, it is another easy check/fix that doesn't require the assembly to be 
> removed from the machine.  In both cases, look for cracks/chips/etc. on the 
> seals and replace as needed.  One charming thing about the white nylon 
> seal--I have never been able to find it by itself; I've had to order the 
> valve stem and/or the whole valve assembly instead.  So I have an extra 
> assembly or two.  If you need the white nylon wand seal, let me know, I have 
> extra and can send you one.
> 
> Anyone know what type of plastic the wand/valve seal is?  We should set up a 
> collective to make the seals for the $0.10 they actually cost, instead of 
> buying extra parts we don't need.
> 
> best,
> bmc
> 
> p.s. I can send you a picture of all this if it would help.
> 
> Sent from my apple IIe
> 
> On Jun 26, 2014, at 6:30, brian <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
>> I've got a two year old IV-R and it's dripping a little water around the 
>> steam wand attachments. I assume there are O rings to be replaced but 
>> thought I'd ask here before taking it apart.  I assume I could use high 
>> pressure thread goop as well.
>> 
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